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Well just when I was finally able to drive her........she spun some bearings. I bought the car in Jan and it has had problems up until last week, I thought I was good to go. Got it out on the Interstate and got it up to 75 and the engine took a s###. Now I am going to have the engine rebuilt and would like to add some mild performance equipment since the engine will be torn apart. I want a daily driver but want to be able to get on it once and awhile. I am open for any suggestions from you experts as what can be done on a modest budget.
Brodix race-rite, Edelbrock RPMs, or the small AFRs. Stay with oval ports. Whichever you find the cheapest. Personally I'd stay away from the off-brand ebay specials, but if you're brave you can save some more.
For the cam, this one is mild, but still more power than factory:
IMO, the stock oval port heads are pretty good. I can't imagine a rebuild of those heads would cost anywhere near what it would cost to replace with aluminum aftermarket.
I know I've beat this drum before, but I'm a big believer in the Edelbrock Top End kits for those of us without an in-depth knowledge of individual components. Everything you need for about $2,000. and 100 horsepower. Intake, heads, cam, bolts, gaskets, etc. No work required. Just bolt-on and go. All the components are matched.
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Well just when I was finally able to drive her........she spun some bearings. I bought the car in Jan and it has had problems up until last week, I thought I was good to go. Got it out on the Interstate and got it up to 75 and the engine took a s###. Now I am going to have the engine rebuilt and would like to add some mild performance equipment since the engine will be torn apart. I want a daily driver but want to be able to get on it once and awhile. I am open for any suggestions from you experts as what can be done on a modest budget.
thanks
Hi Steve, we do these LS-5's all the time for many of the guy's that want to maintain the 100% stock-appearing look.
We have one now, a '72" Chevelle "W" coded (if I recall correctly) on the Super-Chevy website that was done about 10 or 11 years ago, still running strong as ever! The owner's name is Tracey, you can check it out if you like.
Today we are at 500+ HP with ALL the original components, no need for any "special" heads, intakes, even headers. The factory exhaust manifolds along with the Q-jet carbs are all in play. This is how they are dressed when they're on the dyno. Over time many get judged at the Vette shows in our area!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. On almost all of these type builds there is absolutely NO chasing HP numbers, take the pieces and just "bolt-it-all-together", really that simple. Here's a shot of the unit in that one on the website above, it was done locally at "Island Musclecars" here on Long Island back when. We don't paint these, the resto-shop takes care of that.
a proper oem head rebuild, includes new hardened seats, new guides, seals, springs and valves.
plus machine work. ball park cost figure $1000 -$1200.
the most important part, find a good machinist. oem heads do have their HP limits.
DO NOT let a machine shop deck your block, if you have the original engine.
this would completely remove your block numbers.
decking basically insures a square flat sealing surface for the heads, to mate to.
most good machine shops will want to do this, to ensure a good rebuild.
it is basically milling a few thousandths, of the block where the heads bolt on.
usually just enough to remove your original block numbers !
if you do not have original block it is a good thing.
This is NOM can you explain what I would gain by decking the block?
Decking the block would true up the surface (especially important if you are using aluminum heads) and also get you to a "0" deck height or close to it, which then makes it easier to go to a .040" head gasket to get you to .040" quench area.
A good machinist can deck the block and save the numbers.
so if I understand correctly, every rebuild should include decking to make sure that the surfaces mate correctly....or is it something I should ask the company that is rebuilding my ls5?
A good rebuild includes decking, yes. The factory was often sloppy when they decked it and it's not unusual to find the decks uneven. My LS5 was awful. The rear was 0.020" higher than the front so I had different compression ratios in different cylinders. It was also difficult to seal the intake to the heads.
How much porting should I have done with the head? Also from what I read I'm thinking a hydraulic roller cam. Any recommendations or concerns. Other than those mods should I be considering anything else while engine is apart?
Thamks
I'm doing one for a '70 El Camino.
Bowl blending and knocking out any big casting flash is all mine is getting along with new valves, etc. to go with a HR cam. Semii-closed heads will need chamber work with big valves to unshroud them, stock sizes are good to 6000rpm. I'm going with a good set of truck rods I have with ARP bolts. Crank is already forged, that should do it.
Keep it as original as possible, IMHO. Once you add aluminum heads, you don't have an LS5 anymore.
I'm with L88plus on this. If your heads don't need new valve stems or cutting the seats then keep them. I'm assuming you have 290 castings and I think they will do fine. They are very similar to the 215's on my car. All I did was bowl blend as there is a big step from the port to the throat cut. I think with a tidy up on the heads and a modern HR cam will make a great cruiser that will turn angry at a whim. I had some people telling me that sticking with my with stock heads and a 'tiny' 427 was not going to make good power. Many suggestions of stroking to 489 and AFR/race rite heads. Well, I can't get traction until 3rd and am now looking at modifying the e-brake brackets to get more rubber on the back. So I'm sure your 454 will do fine with some simple mods. You will want to upgrade the rods though, stock ones are not great. For the cost of installing ARP bolts, hone and balance you might be better just buying new ones? If you want to step it up then you could install 2.19/1.88 valves and up the compression, but for that effort then you are getting closer to the cost of some AFR heads.
Last edited by oz68VET; Jul 20, 2016 at 07:36 AM.
Reason: Grammar
1970 ls5 rebuild
