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I'm starting to get my 13yr old son involved in working on the "old car", and that got me to really... really look at the contact points from my jack stands to the frame.
I know the old C3 frames aren't perfect, but from the factory how flat should they be on the bottom?
does anyone have any pictures of "Good" frames? I'll try to get a pic of mine up here tomorrow.
I'm mostly worried that the jack stand doesn't make great contact in many locations.
Hi A,
I'm not sure what you mean by "flat"?
I worked on my frame in my garage which has a more or less 'level' concrete floor and used 4 jack stands to support it in many different locations.
I don't think I ever had an occasion when the stands were place symmetrically and the frame would 'rock' on the them.
The frame rails are indeed 2 sections welded together that result in a 'stepped' bottom surface, but places can still be easily found to locate the jack stands.
I often place the rear set of stands at the triangular 'fillet' at the step up of the frame rail for the t-arms.
Sometimes I'd use 6 stands which would allow me to remove 1 at the location on the frame I was currently working on.
Here's an example of a typical 4 jack stand placement.
Regards,
Alan
Hi A,
I'm not sure what you mean by "flat"?
I worked on my frame in my garage which has a more or less 'level' concrete floor and used 4 jack stands to support it in many different locations.
I don't think I ever had an occasion when the stands were place symmetrically and the frame would 'rock' on the them.
The frame rails are indeed 2 sections welded together that result in a 'stepped' bottom surface, but places can still be easily found to locate the jack stands.
Hi A,
The dent? No.
The sloped bottom of the rail? Yes.
regards,
Alan
Same area but with a 'welded in' transmission cross member which was used with 4-speed transmissions. The 'bolt in' crossmember was used with automatic transmissions.
Hi A,
The dent? No.
The sloped bottom of the rail? Yes.
regards,
Alan
Same area but with a 'welded in' transmission cross member which was used with 4-speed transmissions. The 'bolt in' crossmember was used with automatic transmissions.
Hi A,
The dent? No.
The sloped bottom of the rail? Yes.
regards,
Alan
Same area but with a 'welded in' transmission cross member which was used with 4-speed transmissions. The 'bolt in' crossmember was used with automatic transmissions.
Hi Alan-What type of paint/powder-coat did you use to get this type of finish on your frame?
Hi drs,
I stripped the frame myself using wire-wheels, etc.
I then had it powder coated semi-flat black.
I sanded the entire powder coating surface and painted it with Krylon #1613 to get just the appearance I wanted.
Regards,
Alan
The nice thing about Krylon #1613 is that you vary the amount of gloss you get by varying how you spray it since it's lacquer.
Everyone wants that nice flat steel frame rail but unfortunately over the years knuckleheads including myself just took a floor Jack and placed it anywhere along the frame. Causing dents, ripples and a really crappy looking frame rail. The good news is no structural problems has ever resulted from this. Enjoy your project. I'm sure many of us are jealous of your son
Carefully use a board or a floor Jack puck and try to place the jack in the corners by the wheel to avoid denting .
I'm starting to get my 13yr old son involved in working on the "old car", and that got me to really... really look at the contact points from my jack stands to the frame.
I know the old C3 frames aren't perfect, but from the factory how flat should they be on the bottom?
does anyone have any pictures of "Good" frames? I'll try to get a pic of mine up here tomorrow.
I'm mostly worried that the jack stand doesn't make great contact in many locations.
--
Jack stands should be in 6 locations to start with .I have a 68 and 70 frames in restoration progress that you and son are welcome to come view anytime .I am by Lexington Kentucky.
Wes
71 frame condition question
