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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 12:04 AM
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Default Quick timing question

Hi all,

I have a 1970 small block. I am noticing that the longer I run the car, after I shut it off, it will "diesel". But say I start it and only drive it for a couple minutes, then shut it off...no diesel. If I drive it longer, I might get a little diesel...and if I drive it even longer, then it will diesel a bit more.

Would this be a symptom of timing or dwell? And if so, do I need to increase/decrease to make it go away?

Thanks!
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 12:46 AM
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change gas stations.is the car running hot .what is the idle rpm.I also have ran some seafoam down the carb.you could have carbon build up on the pistons.timing should not have changed if it was right before ,but the dwell could be off anytime.
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 08:36 AM
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Default Octane

What is the octane rating of the gas you're using, and what is your idle speed? Higher octane and lower idle can stop run on. There's other stuff you can do, if it's an auto, shut it down in drive, then put it in park.

Last edited by SH-60B; Jul 20, 2016 at 08:37 AM.
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 08:54 AM
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Hi guys - thanks for the responses.

The gas is a bit old...from last fall. However, I now only use the non-oxy fuel so it has no ethanol in it. I thought this would help protect me from the "old fuel" issues? I believe that fuel is a ~90 octane? It's definitely not 87.

The carb (Holley 650 dp) was totally re-built and put on last spring.

It idles about 800 or so?
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by terry82
change gas stations.is the car running hot .what is the idle rpm.I also have ran some seafoam down the carb.you could have carbon build up on the pistons.timing should not have changed if it was right before ,but the dwell could be off anytime.
Do all the above and knock back the timing to 8 and run the highest octane you can find.

Fresh high octane gas, plus seafoam, plus a pull back on timing and you shoudl see a big improvement.
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 09:43 AM
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Can you explain what to do with the Seafoam? I have not used that before? Where/how much do I put it? When it's running or when it's off?

Thanks!
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 10:16 AM
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There are several schools of thought, but here is the way I was taught.

1) read the directions on the Spray can.
2) Work in a well ventilated area
3) bring the engine temp up to normal with air cleaner off.
4) bring idle up slightly by hand or by choke
5) intermittently squirt sea foam spray in the carb until is runs rough and then let it smooth out- do this 8-10 times
6) Squirt the can into the carb until you make the engine die. The engine will run rough, buck, smoke and get squirrely but keep squirting until it dies. When it dies, continue squirting for 5-7 seconds.
7) Let the engine "heat soak" for 10 minuets
8) start the engine and watch the "smoke show"!!
9) drive the car "hard" for a couple of miles, making sure you get the rpms up or the smoke disappears.
10) buy a can of the liquid SF and add it to the gas tank.

I'm not sure if others have suggestions, but that was what I was taught.
It really made a difference with my fuel injector "cone" pattern on my 82 improving my idle noticeably as it got ride of the CFI "Drip".

Last edited by billschroeder5842; Jul 20, 2016 at 10:18 AM.
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by billschroeder5842
Do all the above and knock back the timing to 8 and run the highest octane you can find.
Timing has absolutely no effect when the ignition is OFF!!
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by pws69
Timing has absolutely no effect when the ignition is OFF!!
I agree.

Will not dialing the timing back cool the combustion chamber some reducing the dieseling effect?
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 12:30 PM
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I had a '93 Cherokee that needed 93 in summer but would run fine with 87 in the winter. Ran Seafoam through it and ran 87 year round.
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by billschroeder5842
Will not dialing the timing back cool the combustion chamber some reducing the dieseling effect?
Retarding the timing increases combustion temperature.

Run-on after shutdown is a function of idle speed and throttle blade opening at shutdown. You need to decrease throttle opening at shutdown to eliminate it. One of the most effective ways to do that is to increase timing at idle (with vacuum advance and/or initial timing) so that the idle speed (throttle opening) can be lowered. Advancing the timing will also cool the combustion temperature to further assist in reducing the problem.

Lars

Last edited by lars; Jul 20, 2016 at 01:12 PM.
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Old Jul 20, 2016 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by lars
Retarding the timing increases combustion temperature.
Thanks for the clarification!

Last edited by billschroeder5842; Jul 20, 2016 at 01:29 PM.
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Mpls Funk
Hi all,

I have a 1970 small block. I am noticing that the longer I run the car, after I shut it off, it will "diesel". But say I start it and only drive it for a couple minutes, then shut it off...no diesel. If I drive it longer, I might get a little diesel...and if I drive it even longer, then it will diesel a bit more.

Would this be a symptom of timing or dwell? And if so, do I need to increase/decrease to make it go away?

Thanks!
No one has mentioned it..BUT you should run NON Ethanol gas in your '70..I have headers on my 78 L48.. Run non ethanol 92 octane fuel..
MY 4 barrel Quadrajet is stock other than upgraded float..I run my timing about 16 degrees above TDC,,idle after warm up is 750...
Plugs are gapped at stock .045 and burn clean..wires-dist are newer but stock stuff.
I .. can give you a link to non ethanol station.s in every state..if you cannot find one in MN..Jim
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jim in oregon
No one has mentioned it..BUT you should run NON Ethanol gas in your '70..I have headers on my 78 L48.. Run non ethanol 92 octane fuel..
MY 4 barrel Quadrajet is stock other than upgraded float..I run my timing about 16 degrees above TDC,,idle after warm up is 750...
Plugs are gapped at stock .045 and burn clean..wires-dist are newer but stock stuff.
I .. can give you a link to non ethanol station.s in every state..if you cannot find one in MN..Jim
I'm not debating this but I doubt it has anything to do with the possible carbon buildup or the run on issue... while ethanol fuel sucks I find its blamed for everything under the sun these days related or not... I do think with 10.25:1 compression and iron heads 91 or higher octane would be a no brainer but then again I read that the gm compression ratios are usually exaggerated so...

Last edited by augiedoggy; Jul 21, 2016 at 04:09 PM.
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by augiedoggy
I'm not debating this but I doubt it has anything to do with the possible carbon buildup or the run on issue... while ethanol fuel sucks I find its blamed for everything under the sun these days related or not...
I AGREE but the old carb'ed engines need decent gasoline to run properly.
Perhaps I missed it but did the OP pull plugs and does he have a carbon build up issue/ The tuneup specs on the OP'S car has been changed some since my '78 L48 350 motor.Jim
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 04:27 PM
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I had the same issue with my 68 427 (11:1 comp), I now run a 50/50 mix of 91 non-oxy and 110 leaded racing gas. No more dieseling
Yup it's an expensive mix, but worth it. I don't know if it matters for your era of Cylinder Heads but mine needs the Lead.
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by suprspooky
I had the same issue with my 68 427 (11:1 comp), I now run a 50/50 mix of 91 non-oxy and 110 leaded racing gas. No more dieseling
Yup it's an expensive mix, but worth it. I don't know if it matters for your era of Cylinder Heads but mine needs the Lead.
HMM.. your big block and era it was designed to used gas with lead..is a bit different from the OP..BUT.. I truly believe specially after running old ethanol fuel that the Clear.."E0' ethanol free..FUEL is a good place to start.Maybe also the carb cleaning and fuel filters.Gotta be something about residual fuel in the system when engine is shut downJim
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jim in oregon
HMM.. your big block and era it was designed to used gas with lead..is a bit different from the OP..BUT.. I truly believe specially after running old ethanol fuel that the Clear.."E0' ethanol free..FUEL is a good place to start.Maybe also the carb cleaning and fuel filters.Gotta be something about residual fuel in the system when engine is shut downJim
I agree, fuel is the source of energy and I'm not sure when they started using hardened valve seats. If the OP really has higher than 10:1 comp and CI heads octane rating may come into play, when the ignition is off and engine is spinning down it's drawing fuel same as at idle. Some folks add a solenoid that drops the throttle blades to full close to solve this issue. That said there are other things that could be causing it as you and others have pointed out.
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Mpls Funk
Hi guys - thanks for the responses.

The gas is a bit old...from last fall. However, I now only use the non-oxy fuel so it has no ethanol in it. I thought this would help protect me from the "old fuel" issues? I believe that fuel is a ~90 octane? It's definitely not 87.

The carb (Holley 650 dp) was totally re-built and put on last spring.

It idles about 800 or so?
I'm in the Metro area as well, I'd like to see your car at some point as I'm a new vette owner and want to see more examples.

Dave
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jim in oregon
HMM.. your big block and era it was designed to used gas with lead..is a bit different from the OP..BUT.. I truly believe specially after running old ethanol fuel that the Clear.."E0' ethanol free..FUEL is a good place to start.Maybe also the carb cleaning and fuel filters.Gotta be something about residual fuel in the system when engine is shut downJim
I though gm didnt start prepping for unleaded gas until like 71 or 72... a 70 would not have the hardened valve seats if I remember right..
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