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Blew my clutch

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Old Jul 30, 2016 | 06:16 PM
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Default Blew my clutch

NEED suggestions for a REALLY GOOD clutch.
SPECS 1972 Coupe 383 not sure about the heads MODINE maybe
4 SPEED MUNCIE
FULL HOOKER HEADERS AND SIDEPIPES
I want to be reasonable and get input on Stock vs ?????
Thank you

I had the fly wheel replaced a year ago because of starter issue and mechanic said clutch had plenty of life but I guess this wasn't the case.
Thanks

Last edited by Kryptonite; Jul 30, 2016 at 06:18 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jul 30, 2016 | 08:55 PM
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Mcleod Super street pro kit. Includes clutch, pressure plate and T/O bearing. Around $300 plus shipping.
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Old Jul 31, 2016 | 09:54 AM
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Talk to the Sachs clutch people. I have a 26 spine and I raced. Very lite pedal and it just engages even with big slicks
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Old Jul 31, 2016 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by sullyman56
Mcleod Super street pro kit. Includes clutch, pressure plate and T/O bearing. Around $300 plus shipping.
I'm using this one too behind my Big Block
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Old Jul 31, 2016 | 05:31 PM
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Been very happy with the McLeod clutch/plate in my '72.
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Old Jul 31, 2016 | 06:01 PM
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I have a pretty strong 383 stroker in my 61. I have been running a Centerforce Dual friction clutch in it for 15 years with absolutely zero issues. Great clutch. Handles the power with ease and it's not too heavy.
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 09:01 AM
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I'm happy with my Center Force DFX clutch/pp/billet flywheel.
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by sullyman56
Mcleod Super street pro kit. Includes clutch, pressure plate and T/O bearing. Around $300 plus shipping.
Very high quality and reasonably priced.
Lars has a write up about them in another thread....many people here run them with success......not too heavy on your foot either.....

Jebby
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 04:45 PM
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Another for the Centerforce DFX. Have one between my 383/450 and TKO-600 with an aluminum flywheel. The thin grabs like nobody's business. Rock solid!


Last edited by CheezMoe; Aug 1, 2016 at 04:45 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 08:06 AM
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Default Missing something

I'm pulling the fourspeed but cant get it to drop bell housing is hitting the wall on both sides. trying to drop as one unit haven't separated trans from bellhousing. shifter not removed but linkages are separated. any tips Thanks

Last edited by Kryptonite; Aug 14, 2016 at 08:15 AM.
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 08:50 AM
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Remove the shifter bracket. I needed to do this to get the tranny back a few inches more but I left the bell housing attached to the engine.
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Kryptonite
I'm pulling the fourspeed but cant get it to drop bell housing is hitting the wall on both sides. trying to drop as one unit haven't separated trans from bellhousing. shifter not removed but linkages are separated. any tips Thanks
You have to remove the shifter brackets, shift linkage from the tranny, get the shifter out of the way, and then you have to unbolt the tranny from the bellhousing. Once both the tranny and bellhousing are unbolted, you then "jack-knife" the tranny and bellhousing down and out. I've never been able to slide the assembly back far enough for the tranny input shaft to clear the pressure plate with the bellhousing attached.

Re-assembly is a little trickier, since you have to "jack-knife" it back up while stabbing the throwout bearing as mounted in the fork without allowing it to fall out - it helps to have 2 people on re-assembly, although I usually pull it off by myself with appropriate amounts of cursing.

Lars

Last edited by lars; Aug 14, 2016 at 11:10 AM.
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by capevettes
I have a pretty strong 383 stroker in my 61. I have been running a Centerforce Dual friction clutch in it for 15 years with absolutely zero issues. Great clutch. Handles the power with ease and it's not too heavy.
I have had this same clutch for the same time starting with a 400HP 355ci, 406ci 550HP and my present 600+HP 427ci and I have never had a problem with it .

Light pedal and clamps to a 600HP engine. I don't need to look at any other clutch, I am sold on the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch.
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 12:40 PM
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On re-install, get a 6"-8" bolt the same thread size as the transmission-bell housing bolt size and cut the head off. Thread it into one of the two lower bell housing holes and use this bolt to guide the tranny back into the BH. I put the tranny on my floor jack and raised it to the proper height to line the input shaft with the throw out bearing and the guide bolt. Pushed the jack forward and it slipped in on the first stab! I did this on my own at 61 so it can be done by most anybody, lol!
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 12:45 PM
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Default its out

Thanks for the response.
LARS, this is a stroked 383 from Jasper Engine installed back in 1999 runs very well has full length hooker headers and sidepipes. 40k since 1999 I want to put a good clutch back in has stock set up now.
flywheel was replaced a year ago shop said clutch was good.
Its all out now trans is a M20 want to upgrade to upgrade to M22 Internals will check with Southern gear in Smyrna Ga.
What clutch set up would you recommend?
Does it need to be balanced before I reassemble.

Last edited by Kryptonite; Aug 14, 2016 at 12:58 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 05:53 PM
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Default

Originally Posted by Kryptonite
Thanks for the response.
LARS, this is a stroked 383 from Jasper Engine installed back in 1999 runs very well has full length hooker headers and sidepipes. 40k since 1999 I want to put a good clutch back in has stock set up now.
flywheel was replaced a year ago shop said clutch was good.
Its all out now trans is a M20 want to upgrade to upgrade to M22 Internals will check with Southern gear in Smyrna Ga.
What clutch set up would you recommend?
Does it need to be balanced before I reassemble.
You might want to just send him an email.
V8FastCars@msn.com
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 09:00 PM
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I've been using a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch behind my 500hp BB. Very good clutch and pedal effort is not too heavy. I've had the same clutch for over 10 years.
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