C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 04:34 PM
  #21  
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Default torque on rear spring plate

Originally Posted by AboveTheLogic
Don't feel bad, I'm running the original strut rod cams because I didn't notice the plate in my kit, still need to change that out someday, and I've already had it aligned. Its easy to miss some parts when its a huge kit like that!
Do you know what the torque should be on the spring plate when connection the fiberglass spring. I did not see any instructions on which is the right or left side of the spring so guessing it does not matter. thanks again
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 04:38 PM
  #22  
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There are some torque specs in the VB&P instructions:

https://www.vbandp.com/instructions/...3-79/file.html

I really don't remember, I might have looked it up from one of the service manuals I have or guessed at it...
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 06:53 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by NewbVetteGuy
Why?

That's a strong recommendation.


Adam
I didn't see this earlier! The stock lower rear strut bars. First of all they are weak small diameter with rubber end bushing. The bad point is that their inner attachment point by the diff. is too high. So the wheel gains camber when you go into a turn or take off and compress the suspension.

Smart struts have a beefy lower mounting point and a eccentric cam to adjust the inner height from a lower starting point and choice of end types. I would recommend the hard ploy bushings, not steel joints. No more camber gain and holding the swing arm more rigidly
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 09:58 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by NewbVetteGuy
Why?

That's a strong recommendation.


Adam
I will share my story for food for thought not saying it happens much it might be super rare but I will not take that risk with a stock strut rod again,

our 69 hit a pot hole not a big one a bang and it felt like we blew a tire I was going about 30 and pulled into a driveway, the passenger tire a 265 on a 10" rim was all jutted out odd,

I looked under the rear and the strut eye on the diff end just opened up, these bars didn't look bad, they were not all rusty but it opened up like a gremlin cut it with a knife.

If the tire and rim had been stock it would have done far more damage but this lead to the body off restoration and what 3 plus years of a down 69

My chassis is rebuilt with the VB transverse stuff and these type struts, I might not need them for a street cruiser but the peace of mind is priceless.





I also run the adjustable aftermarket rear sway bar with no issues and I like doing it like gkull talks about.

Last edited by The13Bats; Aug 13, 2016 at 09:59 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 05:40 AM
  #25  
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I am not a fan of the OEM strut design at all but used the OEM struts with poly bushings from 1985 to the mid 2000's (still have them in garage inventory) when I switched to competition adjustable heim jointed struts. Have no experience with Smart Struts but can say that the heim jointed struts are FAR SUPERIOR to the OEM design....

http://www.mamotorworks.com/Corvette...d-kit-602910-1 (NOTE: these heim struts do NOT have any Zerk grease fittings which weaken the overall design, again, in theory)

I bought these in 2007/2008 on sale for $139....one of the best/cheapest upgrades you can do for a C3 suspension in the rear along with a $100 spreader bar for the front suspension....

Last edited by jb78L-82; Aug 14, 2016 at 05:45 AM.
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