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I used the Brad Penn Break in oil. Then I went with the BP 10w30 after the break in period. I have since changed to fully synthetic Amsoil Z-Rod 10w30.
DUB, I read the oil thread and had over load on the oil choices and left more questions than answers. I'm looking for something that is mostly available and that leaves Amsoil or Joe Gibbs (Summit Racing Equipment).
I understand. I looked for months...talked to numerous oil tech guys at oil companies on which oil I would endorse in my shop...and I believe in Amsoil.
One thing to look at...and knowing the engine is a roller motor...but this test for oil is very important and you might want to verify the oil you choose is rated to your liking.
Check out the NOACK Volatility (ASTM D-5800)
Look at post #10...and then investigate where your oil of choice rates...if a person even areas about this dynamic of oil that is often times not mentioned.
As for peoples 'belief' if a roller motor needs have a 'break-in' or not. I do know there are other parts in the engine that are.... or I feel... would benefit from using the same procedure. I know it is called 'breaking in the cam'...but as I wrote...other parts are also being seated during this same procedure.
Did you read post #8 and 11 as to the reasons roller cam motors need to be broken in properly?
I did, and I wrote that if you change the oil after the first few miles, particulate matter from the rings won't be an issue.
If the cylinders are honed with the proper finish recommended by the ring manufacturer, they'll be seated by the time the engine comes up to temperature the first time. This is from my engine builder who's been doing this for 30 years.
w/bashcraft, rings take a set pretty quick all this long term break in stuff is baloney. If you want to do your own "seat the rings" procedure do it quickly.....at 50 mi you should be able to give it hell.
Rollers can go flat too, imo has more to do with parts quality more than anything else.