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My 69 has nose panel dimples...not taking it to Fathom Works lol!
got the old one out and have a replacement but it isn't near as thick metal wise as the original. Anyone had any problems with the replacement header bars? Leaving the original bonding strip in place and using 3M bonding agent to put it back no rivets ....appreciate any thoughts or experience???
I have a spare header brace from a 69, it had some minor surface rust, no rust thru.
has been blasted and painted to protech, holler if you wish to purchase.
I basically glued and clamped the whole thing together, alignment is very important.
get it right the first time !
Thanks guys--the old one came off pretty clean...according to the sheet Willcox put out I will need a small hole saw bit to cut the rivet heads from the bonding strip that is still there. Some of the heads pulled out but some cut or broke off and are still there. Part that concerns me most is the alignment issue...???
Any hot tip suggestions about alignment? Also, the 3M glue the best?
Last edited by RIO68; Sep 10, 2016 at 12:26 PM.
Reason: add'l info
be absolutely sure you have removed 100% of the old rivets and corrosion.
Inspect every Old Rivet hole, they disenagrate, and the corrosion
likes to stay where it was, lodged into the fiberglass.
The surest alignment is drill a couple thru holes and use those for alignment when reattaching.
Here's the small shallow tool I made when I removed mine to get to the rivets.
It really worked great.
Before removing the support I drilled a few tiny holes through it into just the surface of the fiberglass. It made putting it back into the exact same spot easy.
I used an adhesive made by Lord-Fusor to re glue it. Clamped it all over the place into position and used wooden strips on the outside. When removed all the bumps were flat again.
Here's the small shallow tool I made when I removed mine to get to the rivets.
It really worked great.
Before removing the support I drilled a few tiny holes through it into just the surface of the fiberglass. It made putting it back into the exact same spot easy.
I used an adhesive made by Lord-Fusor to re glue it. Clamped it all over the place into position and used wooden strips on the outside. When removed all the bumps were flat again.
That's great to hear the bumps went away!!
Careful is the word for the hole saw ...LOL Wished I had some guide holes but didn't do that. If the form of the new part is close to the original maybe getting it back in place might not be to bad...given the hole and nuts in it are right! What is the part number of the adhesive?
Last edited by RIO68; Sep 10, 2016 at 02:47 PM.
Reason: ass'l info
I used an adhesive made by Lord-Fusor to re glue it. Clamped it all over the place into position and used wooden strips on the outside. When removed all the bumps were flat again.
Originally Posted by zwede
Install the headlight and make sure the lids are centered in the openings. That will tell you where the header bar needs to be.
I would NOT drill all the way through the outer layer.
The trick will be not cutting through the top panel??
Right! Don`t cut through the top panel, only the bonding strip. I dug mine out with a chisel and razor knife.... but my front clip was off the car at the time.
When you re-glue, put a little extra into the dimples from the bottom, then clamp it with the boards and they`ll flatten out nice for you.
Right! Don`t cut through the top panel, only the bonding strip. I dug mine out with a chisel and razor knife.... but my front clip was off the car at the time.
When you re-glue, put a little extra into the dimples from the bottom, then clamp it with the boards and they`ll flatten out nice for you.
Thought about hand cutting them out...some pulled out complete, head and all others not so.
69 with dimples...need header bar
