RIO68

My 69 has nose panel dimples...not taking it to Fathom Works lol!
got the old one out and have a replacement but it isn't near as thick metal wise as the original. Anyone had any problems with the replacement header bars? Leaving the original bonding strip in place and using 3M bonding agent to put it back no rivets ....appreciate any thoughts or experience???

69Vett

I have a spare header brace from a 69, it had some minor surface rust, no rust thru.
has been blasted and painted to protech, holler if you wish to purchase.

I basically glued and clamped the whole thing together, alignment is very important.
get it right the first time !

zwede

Bonding is the way to go. No rivets.

c69vete

Just be sure to remove (grind away) all traces of the corrosion from the original rivets before re-attaching the header bar.

RIO68

Thanks guys--the old one came off pretty clean...according to the sheet Willcox put out I will need a small hole saw bit to cut the rivet heads from the bonding strip that is still there. Some of the heads pulled out but some cut or broke off and are still there. Part that concerns me most is the alignment issue...???
Any hot tip suggestions about alignment? Also, the 3M glue the best?

69Vett

be absolutely sure you have removed 100% of the old rivets and corrosion.
Inspect every Old Rivet hole, they disenagrate, and the corrosion
likes to stay where it was, lodged into the fiberglass.
The surest alignment is drill a couple thru holes and use those for alignment when reattaching.

John 65

Here's the small shallow tool I made when I removed mine to get to the rivets.




It really worked great.

Before removing the support I drilled a few tiny holes through it into just the surface of the fiberglass. It made putting it back into the exact same spot easy.

I used an adhesive made by Lord-Fusor to re glue it. Clamped it all over the place into position and used wooden strips on the outside. When removed all the bumps were flat again.

RIO68

That's great to hear the bumps went away!!
Careful is the word for the hole saw ...LOL Wished I had some guide holes but didn't do that. If the form of the new part is close to the original maybe getting it back in place might not be to bad...given the hole and nuts in it are right! What is the part number of the adhesive?

zwede

Install the headlight and make sure the lids are centered in the openings. That will tell you where the header bar needs to be.

oldgto

I would NOT drill all the way through the outer layer.

John 65

By all means don't drill and come through the other side.

Lord Fusor makes tons of different adhesives. Dont remember the numbers but it was strictly for fiberglass to primed metal.

It was 2 tubes that went into a double caulking gun and mixed itself as it was applied. Solid as a rock.

RIO68

[QUOTE=John 65;1593028798]Here's the small shallow tool I made when I removed mine to get to the rivets.




It really worked great.

What size is the hole saw you used?

John 65

Its 7/8" wide.

Was a lot taller (longer) but cut it and had the cut piece welded back on.

Used with a small right angle drill to get up in there.

RIO68

Thank you...I don't have a 7/8 that short but may have to make one also. The trick will be not cutting through the top panel??

oldgto

Right! Don`t cut through the top panel, only the bonding strip. I dug mine out with a chisel and razor knife.... but my front clip was off the car at the time.
When you re-glue, put a little extra into the dimples from the bottom, then clamp it with the boards and they`ll flatten out nice for you.

RIO68

Thought about hand cutting them out...some pulled out complete, head and all others not so.

Good info...thanks!!