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Is it typical for the halfshaft ends to rub the diff yoke when turning the wheels while the the car is lifted off the ground? It spins then gets really tight then spins again. I am trying to adjust the parking brake using the procedure described in the Chilton's repair manual. Part of the procedure has you turn the rotors and feel for drag while the car is lifted completely off the ground, which means it is at full suspension extension. The parking brakes are adjusted all the way in, the calipers are off and I am still finding it very difficult to spin the rotor. Rebuilt trailing arms, rebuilt differential, new U joints all with less than 100 miles on them. There really should be nothing to keep it from turning freely but after I got under there and poked around, it looks like the halfshaft is rubbing the diff yoke. Though about disconnecting the halfshafts from the trailing arm flanges so I could spin it easier. I'm just trying to make sure my rear drive train is exhibiting typical behaviors.
Yes the ujoints are binding up. Really should not turn the shaft with the suspension at full droop. Just take a jack or block of wood or something to keep the halfshaft more level and it should turn with little problem.
Well that's good news. Where would you suggest placing the jack on the trailing arm? I am a little leery about using the piece on the bottom that the alignment rod attaches to. Guess I could disconnect the spring and use it there. Hmmm...
Can you see what is wrong in the first photo that is correct in the second photo????
ANSWER: The clip in the first photo for your U-joint is NOT properly caged/seated.
AND...YES...you can put your jack stand where the strut rod goes in at the bearing support housing. That area is very strong. BUT..when I do this...I still have my floor jack under the differential and it is still providing some support. For decades I have put the jack stand at the strut rod ( when needed) and never had a problem. The trick is making sure that you slowly let down on your floor jack and while doing so... tap on your jack stands (which is why you want good ones and not cheap 3 legged safety stands) so they will slide outwards and allow the suspension to settle and NOT cause your safety stand to start to tilt to one side.
Been there! ... Done that! ... what a PIA.
I see you still have the car on stands.
I replaced my handbrake assembly with the stainless steel version and had to adjust them by jacking up the rear on to car stands (rear jack points), then place blocks and hand jack under the strut rod mounts to level the half shafts eliminating binding. Then I adjusted the brakes through the hole in the drum till I felt drag on the brake shoes that would suggest that all was well. I put the wheels on, lowered all the jacks and stands and tried the hand brake on my sloping driveway.
Didn't Hold! ... it felt like I did this process a dozen times, but she's good now
Can you see what is wrong in the first photo that is correct in the second photo????
ANSWER: The clip in the first photo for your U-joint is NOT properly caged/seated.
AND...YES...you can put your jack stand where the strut rod goes in at the bearing support housing. That area is very strong. BUT..when I do this...I still have my floor jack under the differential and it is still providing some support. For decades I have put the jack stand at the strut rod ( when needed) and never had a problem. The trick is making sure that you slowly let down on your floor jack and while doing so... tap on your jack stands (which is why you want good ones and not cheap 3 legged safety stands) so they will slide outwards and allow the suspension to settle and NOT cause your safety stand to start to tilt to one side.
NOT that I am the 'safety police"...BUT...IN MY OPINION...There is something REALLY WRONG in this photo.
There would be no way in heck I would get under this car. IF you look at the safety stands. The ones in the front are OK...the rear ones...are JUNK.
AND WHY I know this is I have seen these jack stands collapse. DUE to any ONE of the THREE legs gets hit and the metal bends inwards..and the jack stand collapses.
This type of jack stand is what I was describing in my last post.
Use at your own risk...and I know that people use them...but...all I can say is that I am glad that they have much faith in that design. If a person is 'bargain shopping' for safety support stands. when buying the tools to do a car repair...I guess that they just do not care about what can happen.
Like I wrote above. I am NOT the 'safety police'....but I have seen stuff that many may not have and just doing what I feel is RIGHT.
... NOT that I am the 'safety police"...BUT...IN MY OPINION...There is something REALLY WRONG in this photo ... DUB
WOW!!! ... 100% with you on this one DUB, well spotted.
Never seen anything like it ... the design appears to be a piece of pipe that has been cut up three sides and then bent. The strength and integrity of the steel at that point would be compromised and would also be load bearing. I'd be looking for stands that put the load on the floor or an extra set of the front ones.
Just my opinion as I would hate for anyone to be found pinned under a car that has come down.
When I have the four jack stands under the car in the correct places that I prefer to put them. I also keep my floor jack as a back up and leave it where I put it to raise the car.
72 diff yokes and halfshafts
