Rear Spoiler
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Rear Spoiler
Forum: I've posted a few times about aero questions. Seems the PC aero kit gets 50lbs of downforce. Is that at 70mph or 140 mph? I would think that something taller in the rear would be an improvement.
Something along the lines of the circle track cars. They have a front spoiler about the same size and angle on both ends.
What does the high buck project car know that we don't know?
R
http://bangshift.com/wp-content/uplo...19-685x456.jpg
I really like the rear spoiler, who has it?
Something along the lines of the circle track cars. They have a front spoiler about the same size and angle on both ends.
What does the high buck project car know that we don't know?
R
http://bangshift.com/wp-content/uplo...19-685x456.jpg
I really like the rear spoiler, who has it?
#3
Melting Slicks
OK I'll ask the question.....do you go fast enough to need the spoiler, or is it just for looks?
I don't really have any answers for you, but Im sure that the downforce you mentioned would be at high speed, not highway speed.
I don't really have any answers for you, but Im sure that the downforce you mentioned would be at high speed, not highway speed.
#4
Team Owner
If a person asks that kind of question here, then it's just for looks. Anyone seriously NEEDING a rear wing would be working with others in some racing venue to figure out what really needed to be done.
Last edited by 7T1vette; 09-22-2016 at 01:10 PM.
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
My goal is to run the SS in the 135 touring car class. I don't think that qualifies me as a poser. Having 300 rwhp should get me close to 160? Anyway, C3 has a tendency to Trailing Throttle Oversteer and a few other less than endearing habits compared to something newer. So, I have a real reason to improve the aeros.
Check this out. He has a real spoiler!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721...4/14259974257/
Check this out. He has a real spoiler!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721...4/14259974257/
#6
My goal is to run the SS in the 135 touring car class. I don't think that qualifies me as a poser. Having 300 rwhp should get me close to 160? /
Good luck running yours, sounds like fun no matter what top speed it reaches.
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
A few years ago the forum weighed in on the topic. While there is always some disagreement on details, there was a general consensus on a few things.
If it takes 600 rwhp to go 200 mph.
300 rwhp should get you to 160 mph.
The PC aero kit is excellent, wouldn't try high speed w/o it.
Most agreed that 160 was the limit for stock chassis.
The wind tunnel tests showed some very poor aeros w/o PC kit.
That is where the 50 lbs of downforce come from.
R
If it takes 600 rwhp to go 200 mph.
300 rwhp should get you to 160 mph.
The PC aero kit is excellent, wouldn't try high speed w/o it.
Most agreed that 160 was the limit for stock chassis.
The wind tunnel tests showed some very poor aeros w/o PC kit.
That is where the 50 lbs of downforce come from.
R
#8
Team Owner
I would concentrate on a front splitter air dam to control air underneath the front of the car and to Aid Cooling on the rear I would use minimal Wing or spoiler and concentrate on a diffuser
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
George: I'm guessing that a nice splitter has to be custom made? That would make them a big $ item?
Oh well, speed costs, how fast can I afford to go.
We need to talk about my getting coil overs for the adj factor. Street to open road.
R
Oh well, speed costs, how fast can I afford to go.
We need to talk about my getting coil overs for the adj factor. Street to open road.
R
#10
Drifting
My goal is to run the SS in the 135 touring car class. I don't think that qualifies me as a poser. Having 300 rwhp should get me close to 160? Anyway, C3 has a tendency to Trailing Throttle Oversteer and a few other less than endearing habits compared to something newer. So, I have a real reason to improve the aeros.
Check this out. He has a real spoiler!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721...4/14259974257/
Check this out. He has a real spoiler!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/123721...4/14259974257/
#11
Team Owner
Simple 1/8 aluminum. A fab shop could make it pretty easy. I thought about how to have my mufflers in the diffuser.
To work the best they need to be near the ground like this IMSA car
To work the best they need to be near the ground like this IMSA car
#12
Team Owner
I have the rear dual adjust shocks. They are from Summit and with tax they are $500 something for two rears. It was kind of a dumb move. I should have just done rear dual adjust coil overs, but i had already spent a bunch on custom steel and and two mono leafs.
My advice to anybody is to pull the front A-arms off. Then inspect the frame in the mounting areas for flex cracks. i ended up welding and fish plating both sides on lower arm mounting points. Rebuild them with poly bushings and long slot cross bar to get the castor up to 6.5 or so.
Front bar of 1 1/8th with spring end links
Castor of 6.5 camber of about .42 neg. (you can only really set camber with a heat gun for even tire temp or tire ware) Zero toe. I get perfectly even tire ware with those settings. I've had sticky front treaded DOT tires race tires and they were worn completely smooth in one day. Same thing with slicks the ware dots are always even depth.
Rear is .5 neg camber and i have tried zero toe and settled in on 1/8th toe in for some rear self correction factor.
#13
Drifting
Thread Starter
Can I assume that the rears will cost 1K? What other costs are involved? How much fabrication will be required? I want to ease into this addiction! lol
#14
Team Owner
You have to add up the rear VB&P smart struts and the custom 520# mono leaf. I have the rear dual adjust shocks. They are from Summit and with tax they are $500 something for two rears
Total Tom's Rear end with Richmond or my other rear end with US gears with custom yokes and HD trailing arms with tom's outer spindles
Welded up and reinforced frame rails.............. Solid mounts for the diff. Front solid mounts for the motor. drive line hoops............
Every time something broke I went better and stronger
You start putting big HP and going fast something breaks.
295 front slicks and 335 rears put lots of TQ to the frame
From street to slicks with 4 inch exhaust tips. Your imagined snap rear end swinging around then make the rear heavier than the front end like real race cars. Loose does not happen with enough tire under the rear! Kind of dumb excuse of " I don't want a rear sway because I make the rear tail happy statement"
Total Tom's Rear end with Richmond or my other rear end with US gears with custom yokes and HD trailing arms with tom's outer spindles
Welded up and reinforced frame rails.............. Solid mounts for the diff. Front solid mounts for the motor. drive line hoops............
Every time something broke I went better and stronger
You start putting big HP and going fast something breaks.
295 front slicks and 335 rears put lots of TQ to the frame
From street to slicks with 4 inch exhaust tips. Your imagined snap rear end swinging around then make the rear heavier than the front end like real race cars. Loose does not happen with enough tire under the rear! Kind of dumb excuse of " I don't want a rear sway because I make the rear tail happy statement"
Last edited by gkull; 09-25-2016 at 12:21 AM.