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74 with power brakes. Pedal goes to the floor. Bled the brakes many times-no air in the system. Replaced master cylinder and added electric vacuum pump to make more vacuum. Still no pedal. Any ideas?
If pedal goes to the floor it's not the booster.
If system not losing fluid the MC is wither bad/wrong or needs bench bled as you have air or MC is bad.
Why did you replace all these parts and was there an issue before?
Did you bench bleed the master cylinder correctly???
Did you check and verify the adjustment pin in the brake booster is correct to the previous master cylinder and the new one...especially if this problem was always present???
Does the pedal ALWAYS go to the floor...even when the engine is NOT running????
Did you bench bleed the master cylinder correctly???
Did you check and verify the adjustment pin in the brake booster is correct to the previous master cylinder and the new one...especially if this problem was always present???
Does the pedal ALWAYS go to the floor...even when the engine is NOT running????
DUB
Pump, hold and crack bleeder. All air was removed, I'm sure.
I believe I bench bled the MC correctly.
Pin in booster was set at about 1/16 inch clearance.
Pedal goes to floor even without engine running.
Do you think the pro portioning valve could be bad? After all, it's 40 yrs old.
Thx, Bob
Last edited by Cigars4me; Sep 24, 2016 at 07:34 PM.
Bad Proportion valve wont cause this issue. Basically Its just a distribution block with a sensor that slides to a side if you have loss of pressure and sets the light off
MC is the issue, has air/needs bench bled again or just bad. Not unheard of to have new MC be bad out of box either.
Pump, hold and crack bleeder. All air was removed, I'm sure.
I believe I bench bled the MC correctly.
Pin in booster was set at about 1/16 inch clearance.
Pedal goes to floor even without engine running.
Do you think the pro portioning valve could be bad? After all, it's 40 yrs old.
Thx, Bob
Pump, hold and crack bleeder. This should work but if the pedal is going to the floor there's no point in opening a bleeder cause You know something is wrong. The power booster has no bearing on brake performance all it does is reduce pedal pressure. Assuming You are working by Your self I'd take a long hose from any bleeder and run it back to the master. I'll bet You don't get any flow threw the hose at all. Reason being the master isn't pumping anything. Has the Master been dry at any point ? You can bench bleed the master, suck vacuum threw it or push fluid threw it with pressure to get it to bleed.
Didja bleed BOTH bleeders on the rears?? U sure the rubber lines at the back aren't collapsing? I replaced those, as well as the steel lines going from the rubber lines to the calipers....used stainless lines.
I bled my rears all by myself....used a jar w/ clear tubing coming from caliper into the jar so I could see the air or fluid coming out of calipers...I let the fluid gravity flow thru the caliper to ensure that the air was out of the system at least to the calipers first. Used a length of 2x4 to keep pressure on brake pedal against the seat.
I've had kikazz pedal ever since!!