L.E.D. Tail light issue
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 12
Likes: 1
L.E.D. Tail light issue
I just installed L.E.D. tail lights on my 72. I used the included electronic flasher and added load resistors to the L.E.D's. They work great! My problem now is none of my conventional lamps (Front Parking/Turn/Markers/Rear Markers) work at all. Did I miss something? Any ideas? Thanks all.
Last edited by skibber; Sep 25, 2016 at 07:31 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 512
From: perth Aus w.a
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (stock)
C3 of Year Winner (stock) 2019
I had the same issue with the indicators and the flasher unit is the wrong way for the L shaped plug you need to make up some leads to swap the flasher units two connectors the other way round.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,361
Likes: 383
From: Plano TX
What sug said, the flasher connector pins need swapped. I recently switched the tail and front lights to LEDs and had the same problem. The pins come out the connector with a small screwdriver, no need to cut any wires.
But another thing is: Why did you add load resistors? Load resistors are for applications where there is no electronic flasher available. They make the LEDs use the same power as the incandescents so the factory flasher works. Since you have the electronic flasher you don't need load resistors.
Btw, for the front I used these neat "switchback" LEDs so my running lights are white and it switches to amber for the turn signals. Be aware that if you use LEDs in the front you'll have to change the wiring for the front side marker, otherwise the turn signals won't work. If you only change the rears you don't need to change any wiring (except the flasher connector as stated above).
But another thing is: Why did you add load resistors? Load resistors are for applications where there is no electronic flasher available. They make the LEDs use the same power as the incandescents so the factory flasher works. Since you have the electronic flasher you don't need load resistors.
Btw, for the front I used these neat "switchback" LEDs so my running lights are white and it switches to amber for the turn signals. Be aware that if you use LEDs in the front you'll have to change the wiring for the front side marker, otherwise the turn signals won't work. If you only change the rears you don't need to change any wiring (except the flasher connector as stated above).
Last edited by zwede; Sep 25, 2016 at 10:16 PM.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 12
Likes: 1
What sug said, the connectors need swapped. I recently switched the tail and front lights to LEDs and had the same problem. The pins come out the connector with a small screwdriver, no need to cut any wires.
But another thing is: Why did you add load resistors? Load resistors are for applications where there is no electronic flasher available. They make the LEDs use the same power as the incandescents so the factory flasher works. Since you have the electronic flasher you don't need load resistors.
But another thing is: Why did you add load resistors? Load resistors are for applications where there is no electronic flasher available. They make the LEDs use the same power as the incandescents so the factory flasher works. Since you have the electronic flasher you don't need load resistors.
s for your help. Will try it tomorrow
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 12
Likes: 1
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 12
Likes: 1
What sug said, the flasher connector pins need swapped. I recently switched the tail and front lights to LEDs and had the same problem. The pins come out the connector with a small screwdriver, no need to cut any wires.
But another thing is: Why did you add load resistors? Load resistors are for applications where there is no electronic flasher available. They make the LEDs use the same power as the incandescents so the factory flasher works. Since you have the electronic flasher you don't need load resistors.
Btw, for the front I used these neat "switchback" LEDs so my running lights are white and it switches to amber for the turn signals. Be aware that if you use LEDs in the front you'll have to change the wiring for the front side marker, otherwise the turn signals won't work. If you only change the rears you don't need to change any wiring (except the flasher connector as stated above).
But another thing is: Why did you add load resistors? Load resistors are for applications where there is no electronic flasher available. They make the LEDs use the same power as the incandescents so the factory flasher works. Since you have the electronic flasher you don't need load resistors.
Btw, for the front I used these neat "switchback" LEDs so my running lights are white and it switches to amber for the turn signals. Be aware that if you use LEDs in the front you'll have to change the wiring for the front side marker, otherwise the turn signals won't work. If you only change the rears you don't need to change any wiring (except the flasher connector as stated above).
Instructor
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 152
Likes: 9
Btw, for the front I used these neat "switchback" LEDs so my running lights are white and it switches to amber for the turn signals. Be aware that if you use LEDs in the front you'll have to change the wiring for the front side marker, otherwise the turn signals won't work. If you only change the rears you don't need to change any wiring (except the flasher connector as stated above).
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,361
Likes: 383
From: Plano TX
Stock is the side markers alternate when the running lights are on. You have to wire the side marker to be in parallel with the turn signal. It's been a while since I did it, but I think I had to cut one of the wires to the side marker and connect it to ground. Or if you don't care about the side marker you can just pull the bulb and the turn signals work fine.
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