4speed muncie removal
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 140
From: Western New York
Hire it out! I did the tranny in my 67 Camaro back when I was in my 20's. A buddy helped me and it was done in the driveway on our backs. Absolutely insane. If you can get the use of someone's lift then it will be a whole lot easier. And, there was a ton of room under the Camaro compared to what there is in the Vette. Have you looked underneath to see how tight things are? Just sayin'. Good luck.
Duane
Duane
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
The car has to be raised about 18 inches. Remove the shift **** and reverse handle. Remove the trans control levers with the rods connected. Use a bottle jack to support the engine using a wide block of wood under the oil pan. Disconnect the drive shaft from the trans yoke after MARKING the relationship between the shaft and yoke to ensure balance is maintained. Use zip ties to hold the yoke to the tail on the trans so oil won't ruin your day. Remove the trans mount, exhaust hanger, two bolts that attach the shifter to it's bracket, shifter bracket and shifter and back-up light. Lower the bottle jack (watching to make sure the distributor doesn't hit the firewall) to gain access to the trans mounting bolts. The trans can now be pushed rearward far enough to clear the bell-housing. Raise the engine for more clearance. The trans can be rotated and slid down and out between the exhaust pipes. Don't have your head under the trans when you are removing it-it is oily, heavy and doesn't have any really nice places to hold it. I think that about covers it. The first time doing it will require almost a full day.
Forgot-the rear wheels will have to hang freely so that they can be rotated to move the driveshaft universal into position to remove the U-joint's bolts.
Forgot-the rear wheels will have to hang freely so that they can be rotated to move the driveshaft universal into position to remove the U-joint's bolts.
Last edited by jnb5101; Oct 4, 2016 at 09:13 PM.
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
That about covers it!!!!!!
Except I have one of those red plastic trans yoke plugs in place of the bulky and heavy yoke......and when pulling the trans back....I find more wiggle room by rotating the trans a bit........
Jebby
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
I'm getting better at removing my ST-10. I get it done on 16" stands in the garage by myself. The trans weighs about 75 lbs so its manageable. I also use a floor jack to support the trans while its being pulled back from the bell housing. The tranny input shaft will clear the bh if the tranny is moved rearward far enough which for me required the removal of the shifter, shifter mounting bracket and rear tranny mount. I have sidepipes which makes this job so much easier.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,541
Likes: 1,975
From: Temple Terrace Florida
Transmission
I would also disconnect the exhaust pipes at the manifold. If you don't do that, the engine may not have enough room to tilt backwards. The pass side should also come completely off to give you room to get at the clutch linkage. Good luck. Jerry
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Verdad Gallardo
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,376
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
FWIW, I was watching the 'Detroit Muscle' show, on Spike TV last weekend. They showcased a "flange kit" that you use to modify the tranny crossmember, so it's easily removable. I'm not 100% sure, but I seem to recall that the kit is made by American Powertrain....
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 216
Likes: 16
From: Haverfordwest Pembrokeshire
I dropped my box out last night, took longer to dismantle the shifter and bracket, once they're out of the way speedo cable, rear mount and bracket 4 bolts twist 90 degrees CW and pull back input shaft cleared by about 1/2" lower the front and slide it out, not too heavy and all on axle stands.
Not looking forward to getting the shifter back in but I'm sure I'll manage somehow!
Graham
Not looking forward to getting the shifter back in but I'm sure I'll manage somehow!
Graham
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
I dropped my box out last night, took longer to dismantle the shifter and bracket, once they're out of the way speedo cable, rear mount and bracket 4 bolts twist 90 degrees CW and pull back input shaft cleared by about 1/2" lower the front and slide it out, not too heavy and all on axle stands.
Not looking forward to getting the shifter back in but I'm sure I'll manage somehow!
Graham
Not looking forward to getting the shifter back in but I'm sure I'll manage somehow!
Graham
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Good to know. Thanks
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
I dropped my box out last night, took longer to dismantle the shifter and bracket, once they're out of the way speedo cable, rear mount and bracket 4 bolts twist 90 degrees CW and pull back input shaft cleared by about 1/2" lower the front and slide it out, not too heavy and all on axle stands.
Not looking forward to getting the shifter back in but I'm sure I'll manage somehow!
Graham
Not looking forward to getting the shifter back in but I'm sure I'll manage somehow!
Graham
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
HUGE, YUGE caution, about jackstands and ASSfault driveways/roads never trust any ASSfault surface, I had a car bend over sideways on the stands once, some years ago, and it bent hell outta the steering linkage I was working on....just lucky as hell I was not under it.....jack stands are fine on a garage floor/driveway...but NEVER trust any ASSfault to support ANY car on jack stands.....OR for that matter even a floor jack.....
serious, this comment really needs to be a sticky up top.....when that car went over, I about crapped my britches.....it was a race to the bath room.......
:c razy2:
serious, this comment really needs to be a sticky up top.....when that car went over, I about crapped my britches.....it was a race to the bath room.......
:c razy2:
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
The only time I ever used stands on pavement, I used squares of plywood to put under the stands to spread the load. Also, it was only to rotate tires and that is as far as I would go without getting under the vehicle.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,697
Likes: 139
From: Syracuse NY
Ive had my 4 speed in and out about 5 times in the last few years, heres what Ive learned.
1) Lower the motor as far as it will go. Be careful, as your distributor cap will be resting against the firewall.
2) Remove the yoke, put a ziploc baggie over the output and wrap it several times with duct tape. (trust me, you will thank me on this one)
3) Have a piece of heavy cardboard under the car for when you get the transmission out. It will assist in dragging the 70lbs out from under the car.
4) Reassembly: ******I CANNOT put enough emphasis on this one...BUY A CLUTCH ALIGNMENT tool thats made from an old inut shaft. (or just buy a junk input shaft, crappy and rusty is fine) People occasionally sell them here or you can find them on ebay for about 40 bucks. I know you dont want to pay 40 bucks for a 1 time tool, but TRUST ME..it will save you HOURS of frustration when you are trying to push the transmission back in that last 1 inch. DO NOT use the crappy blue piece of plastic that comes in the clutch kit. It will just frustrate you.
-also, as you are trying that last 1 inch, have an assistant depress the clutch pedal a bit. This tip will also save you hours of swearing.
1) Lower the motor as far as it will go. Be careful, as your distributor cap will be resting against the firewall.
2) Remove the yoke, put a ziploc baggie over the output and wrap it several times with duct tape. (trust me, you will thank me on this one)
3) Have a piece of heavy cardboard under the car for when you get the transmission out. It will assist in dragging the 70lbs out from under the car.
4) Reassembly: ******I CANNOT put enough emphasis on this one...BUY A CLUTCH ALIGNMENT tool thats made from an old inut shaft. (or just buy a junk input shaft, crappy and rusty is fine) People occasionally sell them here or you can find them on ebay for about 40 bucks. I know you dont want to pay 40 bucks for a 1 time tool, but TRUST ME..it will save you HOURS of frustration when you are trying to push the transmission back in that last 1 inch. DO NOT use the crappy blue piece of plastic that comes in the clutch kit. It will just frustrate you.
-also, as you are trying that last 1 inch, have an assistant depress the clutch pedal a bit. This tip will also save you hours of swearing.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
HUGE, YUGE caution, about jackstands and ASSfault driveways/roads never trust any ASSfault surface, I had a car bend over sideways on the stands once, some years ago, and it bent hell outta the steering linkage I was working on....just lucky as hell I was not under it.....jack stands are fine on a garage floor/driveway...but NEVER trust any ASSfault to support ANY car on jack stands.....OR for that matter even a floor jack.....
serious, this comment really needs to be a sticky up top.....when that car went over, I about crapped my britches.....it was a race to the bath room.......:c razy2:
serious, this comment really needs to be a sticky up top.....when that car went over, I about crapped my britches.....it was a race to the bath room.......
:c razy2: