Clutch pedal position
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Virginia USA
Clutch pedal position
Just replaced my clutch on my '71.
A little background.
I had converted the linkage to the speed direct heim joint rods a few years ago. At one point the lower rod to clutch fork bracket that came with the kit slipped and slammed my old clutch pretty good. I've never liked the way that bracket was designed and even modified it to keep it from slipping again.
When I installed my new clutch I decided to go back to the original lower rod and keep the upper speed direct rod. I adjusted everything using the speed direct upper rod heim joint as that is where the factory setup is adjusted. Anyway now my clutch pedal is way too "high" as it's about two inches towards the rear of the car in relation to the brake pedal. It was not like this when using both speed direct rods or the factory rods.
Is there a hard stop under the dash that may have come loose, be missing or out of adjustment? Or do you think it's just a combination of using the upper speed direct rod and the factory lower rod?
This weekend I'm thinking of reinstalling the factory upper rod but I don't see how this would change the position of the pedal if the clutch is adjusted correctly.
Any thoughts would be great also is there a better setup than speed directs?
Thanks
A little background.
I had converted the linkage to the speed direct heim joint rods a few years ago. At one point the lower rod to clutch fork bracket that came with the kit slipped and slammed my old clutch pretty good. I've never liked the way that bracket was designed and even modified it to keep it from slipping again.
When I installed my new clutch I decided to go back to the original lower rod and keep the upper speed direct rod. I adjusted everything using the speed direct upper rod heim joint as that is where the factory setup is adjusted. Anyway now my clutch pedal is way too "high" as it's about two inches towards the rear of the car in relation to the brake pedal. It was not like this when using both speed direct rods or the factory rods.
Is there a hard stop under the dash that may have come loose, be missing or out of adjustment? Or do you think it's just a combination of using the upper speed direct rod and the factory lower rod?
This weekend I'm thinking of reinstalling the factory upper rod but I don't see how this would change the position of the pedal if the clutch is adjusted correctly.
Any thoughts would be great also is there a better setup than speed directs?
Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
YES..the clutch pedal has a rubber stop that stops the pedal from coming back too far. If it has fallen out...and you adjusted the linkage to THAT incorrect dimension...that is why your pedal is a lot higher.
I would stick with one system or the other....UNLESS you adjust the heim jointed rods to stock length. If you don't you can fail to achieve the basic 1 inch of free pedal travel before you feel the clutch fork and throw out bearing contact the pressure plate.
FWIW....I do not use the correct rubber stop that were in place...they are so easy to fall out that I have found that I use a 1970-ish seat back seat rubber bumper...cut the shaft due to it being quite long and use it and install a washer and nut..and then it can NOT fall out and it is just about as thick as the correct rubber bumper that you will fight to get in and stay.
Personally ...Not seeing your system of heim jointed rods..I would use them. They are better than the stock design...in my opinion.
DUB
I would stick with one system or the other....UNLESS you adjust the heim jointed rods to stock length. If you don't you can fail to achieve the basic 1 inch of free pedal travel before you feel the clutch fork and throw out bearing contact the pressure plate.
FWIW....I do not use the correct rubber stop that were in place...they are so easy to fall out that I have found that I use a 1970-ish seat back seat rubber bumper...cut the shaft due to it being quite long and use it and install a washer and nut..and then it can NOT fall out and it is just about as thick as the correct rubber bumper that you will fight to get in and stay.
Personally ...Not seeing your system of heim jointed rods..I would use them. They are better than the stock design...in my opinion.
DUB
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 23,367
Likes: 1,061
From: Virginia USA
Thanks Dub, I'll check to see if the bumper is missing while I'm under the dash this weekend. I figured something has to be missing as the position of the pedal doesn't seem like the factory would set it up this way. And yes, right now I have the inch or so of free play before the throw-out bearing come in contact with the clutch fingers. This is why I questioned the pedal position 
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 23,367
Likes: 1,061
From: Virginia USA
I am missing the rubber stop and I can see how it could easily fall out. I'm going to take Dubs suggestion and fab my own. I know I have something that will work and not fall out.
Last edited by theandies; Oct 13, 2016 at 03:09 PM.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 23,367
Likes: 1,061
From: Virginia USA
UPDATE for future reference.
I actually had an old seat back bumper (Dubs suggestion) that I forgot about in my pile of junk. I'd replaced them years ago and thought I threw them out.
I cut the threaded part so it was about a half inch long. Installed two nuts, one on the bumper side and then the other after getting my hands and bumper up in the slot (not easy as with anything under dash related). Adjusted the bumper until the clutch pedal aligned with the brake pedal then tightened it all down. Works great but since I was using the upper Speed Direct link and the original lower link I could not get the clutch linkage adjusted properly. I removed the lower factory link and installed the Speed Direct lower link after modifying the crappy designed link to clutch fork bracket that came with my Speed Direct kit. Now I have infinite adjustability and was able to get it working good.
I actually had an old seat back bumper (Dubs suggestion) that I forgot about in my pile of junk. I'd replaced them years ago and thought I threw them out.
I cut the threaded part so it was about a half inch long. Installed two nuts, one on the bumper side and then the other after getting my hands and bumper up in the slot (not easy as with anything under dash related). Adjusted the bumper until the clutch pedal aligned with the brake pedal then tightened it all down. Works great but since I was using the upper Speed Direct link and the original lower link I could not get the clutch linkage adjusted properly. I removed the lower factory link and installed the Speed Direct lower link after modifying the crappy designed link to clutch fork bracket that came with my Speed Direct kit. Now I have infinite adjustability and was able to get it working good.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
I am glad you got it to where you like it. As long as you have enough 'throw' in the linkage to disengage the clutch....due to the pedal being set lower..I guess that is all that matters.
I know about this areas pretty good where you installed the seat back bumper. pot that it matters...but I feel that if you used a nut on each side...I would be concerned that the nut 'possibly' could work its way through the square hole in the bracket that the original type rubber stop went. Possibly installing a flat washer on each side to this new adjuster for your pedal height can not ever work its way through or bend to one side.
Obviously if you used flange nuts...the washer would not be needed....or a nut with larger spinning washer ion it.
DUB
