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Ok, do you think it will be too harsh with present setup?
My car is a BB, so i thought it would be the right way to go due to the weight of engine..
/Claes
Ah...did not know it was a big block.......I would try it right there then....
Mine is a small block w/aluminum heads.....was way too harsh in that position.
I will leave it there and try it out coming summer, a feet of snow here now..
Will do back end later when i put the autotrans back after rebuild.¨
Thanx for your input!
I will leave it there and try it out coming summer, a feet of snow here now..
Will do back end later when i put the autotrans back after rebuild.¨
Thanx for your input!
Claes
Hope I gave you insight......please post your results when you are able to drive it again!!!!!
Hope I gave you insight......please post your results when you are able to drive it again!!!!!
Jebby
Well, you are the only one who has this setup and respond so i am grateful for your input, will get back to you when its all done and the snow is gone!
I believe you have the tie rods attached in the manual steering holes in the knuckles. Should use the PS holes. Also I suggest not using a rear sway bar. That includes the one in the suspension kit. It will make the rear suspension more compliant and reduce oversteer with it off.
I believe you have the tie rods attached in the manual steering holes in the knuckles. Should use the PS holes. Also I suggest not using a rear sway bar. That includes the one in the suspension kit. It will make the rear suspension more compliant and reduce oversteer with it off.
Tom
All BB C3's came with the unique GM style 9/16 inch rear sway bar from the factory to offset the inherent nose heavy understeer characteristics of the BB engine. Whether using the GM stock BB front sway bar or the aftermarket front bars of bigger diameter with no rear sway bar, a BB C3 will understeer/plow heavily when pushed hard in turns due to the nose heavy weight bias of these cars. In addition, using a GM designed/style rear sway will NOT effect the compliance of the rear suspension (that is why GM designed a rear sway bay link unique to the C3)...Shocks and springs will most impact suspension compliance and ride ability....I would strongly suggest a GM designed rear sway bar of 9/16 inch on BB C3's since this is the bar that GM installed on the BB Cars from the factory.......for a very good reason...to help dial out the inherent understeer of these cars....
Last edited by jb78L-82; Nov 12, 2016 at 05:57 PM.
You should be happy with the steeroids rack & pinion, but did you install a spreader bar? I have done all of that on my '69. Love the composite front spring, put the front suspension on in '93. Did the steeroids & spreader bar recently.
I have this setup on my 80, a little different than yours with mine having the batwing rear. Here's a few pictures. Nice to be able to easily adjust the front and rear spring rates, and ride height at each corner front and rear. Front rates 450, 500, 550 or 600 pounds, rear rates 300, 325, 350, 375, 400 and 425. I have Bilstein Sport shocks, but adjustable shocks would be nice with it. Firm ride, flat in the turns. I think I have mine set second in from the highest settings for both. All poly bushings too. Wheels are 17x9.5, tires are 275/40 ZR17 Nitto NT555 front and rear.
Rear end is done on my VBP Performance Plus suspension and ready for a testdrive. I had to do some modifications as the fitment was not correct...
Looks like mine except I don't have the locators in yet, & I have a single mount rear spring. Looks like lots more work in installation.
Nice job, congrats!
Testdrive done, it feels great, firm and not harsh at all.
Exited to se how it feels when i have my new wheels and tyres on.
17x8 TT2 with 255/50 Nitto Invo.
Testdrive done, it feels great, firm and not harsh at all.
Exited to se how it feels when i have my new wheels and tyres on.
17x8 TT2 with 255/50 Nitto Invo.
Have you upgraded the steering & brakes as well?
R&P steering is great, all newer cars have it
The rotating inertia of 15" vs 17" wheels is different. The weight of 17" wheels must be considerably less than 15" wheels or you should Loose stopping power, unless you also do larger brakes.
Swaybar brackets did not fit, had to drill new holes, no big deal but very anoying and timeconsuming...
I gotcha. I haven't seen a "bolt on" kit yet that is really bolt on. To be truley honest manufacturers should say "Almost bolt on. Some modifications may be required." But you got it done and it looks good!
I gotcha. I haven't seen a "bolt on" kit yet that is really bolt on. To be truley honest manufacturers should say "Almost bolt on. Some modifications may be required." But you got it done and it looks good!
Tom
If you are referring to R&P steering, I did steeroids, it is bolt on. I love it!
If you put their spreader bar on also, you won't believe the difference.
The largest difficulty is removing the stock steering.
The Speed Direct video I watched shows elongating upper hole in the passenger side frame bracket.
I elongated the top hole in the passenger side frame bracket just slightly,
I preferred not to modify my frame.
Hopefully Speed Direct has made this modification to their kit by now.
Many, C3's do have slight frame differences.
It is also easier if your car is a ps car.
In any event, just make it "your" car! Not everyone likes the exact same thing that someone else has.
If you are referring to R&P steering, I did steeroids, it is bolt on. I love it!
If you put their spreader bar on also, you won't believe the difference.
The largest difficulty is removing the stock steering.
The Speed Direct video I watched shows elongating upper hole in the passenger side frame bracket.
I elongated the top hole in the passenger side frame bracket just slightly,
I preferred not to modify my frame.
Hopefully Speed Direct has made this modification to their kit by now.
Many, C3's do have slight frame differences.
It is also easier if your car is a ps car.
In any event, just make it "your" car! Not everyone likes the exact same thing that someone else has.
I was referring to Clwi"s post #41 as I quoted in my post. I agree with you. Everyone should build the car they want. I have been running the VBP full dual mount front spring with boxed control arms and rear dual mount spring kit for several years on the 65. I use SPAX adjustable shocks.The Bilstein Sports were too stiff for me. I put the spreader bar and Steeroids R&P on a few years before the spring kit. The Steeroids had a little too much assist for me so I dropped the pump pressure and flow rate. Feels, to me, more like a modern sports car. Sometime around then I changed over to 17X8 with 255/50 and 17X9 with 275/50 wheels/tires. I also have RG 5 spd and a mildly built 355. I really enjoy the car. Hammer the throttle on a 20 mph roll and it will smoke the 275s all the way to the rev limiter. FUN!!!! Corners pretty well too!
Done some test driving and it was a bit harsh, so i backed out one hole in springbrackets, that did it, feels perfect!
I have steeriods PS and stock breaks, they work fine, new rotors and calipers.
New TT2:s 17x8 with 255/50 Nittos is next!
