Head Lamps Light Illuminated
#1
Head Lamps Light Illuminated
Gents,
Question for you. Recently when I turn on my headlights the head lamps red light will turn on. I'm not sure what to look for. The headlights come up and turn on fine. So any thoughts?
Question for you. Recently when I turn on my headlights the head lamps red light will turn on. I'm not sure what to look for. The headlights come up and turn on fine. So any thoughts?
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1975Coupe (10-27-2016)
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1975Coupe (10-27-2016)
#4
Drifting
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If one switch isn't obviously broken(cracked, hanging, etc.), for trouble shooting purposes you can unplug them one at a time. When you unplug the bad one the red light will go out.
The switch could just be out of adjustment as well.
The switch could just be out of adjustment as well.
Last edited by Revi; 10-27-2016 at 08:53 AM.
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1975Coupe (10-27-2016)
#6
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Hi 75,
There's a small button on the switch that the tab on the elbow depresses when the headlights are up.
You might check to see if the button is being depressed enough to cycle the switch.
Regards,
Alan
Sorry for the large size of the image. Photobucket is on the fritz!
Upper arrow is the 'tab'.
Lower arrow is the button.
There's a small button on the switch that the tab on the elbow depresses when the headlights are up.
You might check to see if the button is being depressed enough to cycle the switch.
Regards,
Alan
Sorry for the large size of the image. Photobucket is on the fritz!
Upper arrow is the 'tab'.
Lower arrow is the button.
Last edited by Alan 71; 10-27-2016 at 10:16 AM.
#7
OK Newb question. How do you get to see that spot on the head lamp mechanism? Do you lie under the car? I tried turning them on when the car was idling and couldn't see anything from above or in front.
#8
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Hi 75,
NOT an easy place to see or REACH.
That photo is taken with the headlights raised and looking up from below through 1 of the 2 'breather' holes that 68-72 cars have in the lower valance.
Do 75s still have those holes?
Regards,
Alan
These 2 on 68-72 cars.
NOT an easy place to see or REACH.
That photo is taken with the headlights raised and looking up from below through 1 of the 2 'breather' holes that 68-72 cars have in the lower valance.
Do 75s still have those holes?
Regards,
Alan
These 2 on 68-72 cars.
#9
Melting Slicks
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Until you know where to look they can be rather hard to see.
Nobody has yet suggested that you check to see if the warning light is doing what it is supposed to do--indicate when one or both headlights are not LOCKED into the "up" position. The actuator hyperextends the mechanism a bit--what I mean is that the last part its travel no longer raises the door; instead it locks the door into position so that vacuum is no longer required to keep it open.
A simple test is to turn off the engine with the headlamp switch "on" and the doors fully opened. Wait a few minutes. The doors should not drop in the least and a nice firm push should reveal that the door is physically locked into position.
If both are locked then your problem is most likely in the sensing circuit and also very likely to be a switch. If one or both is not locked however, the problem is within the headlamp door mechanism itself (this includes all of the vacuum components).
Nobody has yet suggested that you check to see if the warning light is doing what it is supposed to do--indicate when one or both headlights are not LOCKED into the "up" position. The actuator hyperextends the mechanism a bit--what I mean is that the last part its travel no longer raises the door; instead it locks the door into position so that vacuum is no longer required to keep it open.
A simple test is to turn off the engine with the headlamp switch "on" and the doors fully opened. Wait a few minutes. The doors should not drop in the least and a nice firm push should reveal that the door is physically locked into position.
If both are locked then your problem is most likely in the sensing circuit and also very likely to be a switch. If one or both is not locked however, the problem is within the headlamp door mechanism itself (this includes all of the vacuum components).
#10
Melting Slicks
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One other thing:
The headlamp doors make a quite loud "snap" sound as they lock into position. Unless your exhaust is extremely loud it's easy to hear them inside the cabin (open the windows).
The headlamp doors make a quite loud "snap" sound as they lock into position. Unless your exhaust is extremely loud it's easy to hear them inside the cabin (open the windows).
#11
Team Owner
When I bought my car one of the switches was broken off where it screws into the mechanism. It's just plastic threads that hold it in. My light was always on until I figured it out. I put a tie-wrap on the broken switch to depress it until I got a replacement.
Last edited by theandies; 11-01-2016 at 02:24 AM.
#12
Until you know where to look they can be rather hard to see.
Nobody has yet suggested that you check to see if the warning light is doing what it is supposed to do--indicate when one or both headlights are not LOCKED into the "up" position. The actuator hyperextends the mechanism a bit--what I mean is that the last part its travel no longer raises the door; instead it locks the door into position so that vacuum is no longer required to keep it open.
A simple test is to turn off the engine with the headlamp switch "on" and the doors fully opened. Wait a few minutes. The doors should not drop in the least and a nice firm push should reveal that the door is physically locked into position.
If both are locked then your problem is most likely in the sensing circuit and also very likely to be a switch. If one or both is not locked however, the problem is within the headlamp door mechanism itself (this includes all of the vacuum components).
Nobody has yet suggested that you check to see if the warning light is doing what it is supposed to do--indicate when one or both headlights are not LOCKED into the "up" position. The actuator hyperextends the mechanism a bit--what I mean is that the last part its travel no longer raises the door; instead it locks the door into position so that vacuum is no longer required to keep it open.
A simple test is to turn off the engine with the headlamp switch "on" and the doors fully opened. Wait a few minutes. The doors should not drop in the least and a nice firm push should reveal that the door is physically locked into position.
If both are locked then your problem is most likely in the sensing circuit and also very likely to be a switch. If one or both is not locked however, the problem is within the headlamp door mechanism itself (this includes all of the vacuum components).
#13
Melting Slicks
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Yes, it sounds to me like there is some issue with the mechanism as they should stay up forever after you stop the engine. Worn bushings and/or bearings could, I suppose, cause enough slop in the mechanism that even though you hear the "snap" they still aren't locking.
#14
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Hi 75,
What happens when you open the headlight doors using the vacuum override switch with the engine running and then shut the engine off?
Regards,
Alan
What happens when you open the headlight doors using the vacuum override switch with the engine running and then shut the engine off?
Regards,
Alan
#15
#16
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#17
Mine doesn't have that. I don't have a pic from below but I don't have three switches/***** on the bottom of my steering wheel.
#18
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Hi 75,
I believe all 68-82 had the vacuum over-ride switch for the headlight vacuum system.
It's necessary for instance, to hold the doors open in order to change a headlight bulb.
It sounds like someone has by passed it.
Look for 2 hoses with not connected to anything or 2 joined by some sort of connector.
Regards,
Alan
This is the vacuum switch and 2 hoses hoses.
Since yours is missing it appears someone has been playing with the vacuum system.
I believe all 68-82 had the vacuum over-ride switch for the headlight vacuum system.
It's necessary for instance, to hold the doors open in order to change a headlight bulb.
It sounds like someone has by passed it.
Look for 2 hoses with not connected to anything or 2 joined by some sort of connector.
Regards,
Alan
This is the vacuum switch and 2 hoses hoses.
Since yours is missing it appears someone has been playing with the vacuum system.
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1975Coupe (01-13-2017)