When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am replacing a rear quarter panel on my 1970 corvette, now i bought a replacement panel and i what to know how to tell if its FRP or SMC ? For bonding reasons, so the guy i got it from didnt know.
I am replacing a rear quarter panel on my 1970 corvette, now i bought a replacement panel and i what to know how to tell if its FRP or SMC ? For bonding reasons, so the guy i got it from didnt know.
SMC is a gray color and has a shine to it, original press molded would be black in color. But for bonding either one, I'd use the SEM 39747 glue. As long as you scuff it real good it will hold either.
SMC is a gray color and has a shine to it, original press molded would be black in color. But for bonding either one, I'd use the SEM 39747 glue. As long as you scuff it real good it will hold either.
could you back up a bit and take another pic?. It looks like SMC, but hard to tell from being so close. But just remember, the glue I posted above will glue either panel so it's not really that important. The issue will be the gun needed to use the glue.
39747 Cures in the same color as the original stuff, but what it allows you is way more work time than the original GM 2 part epoxy. The OEM glue gave you about 20 minutes of work time which really meant you had to be on your toes when doing the install.
The 39747 gives you about 2 hours to play with the panel and the stuff will glue water to oil.. (just kidding)... We use ratchet straps and Y clamps around the entire front end when gluing on a fender, we place 2x4's under the straps on the side being bonded so this allows us to clamp the panel without using rivets or any other device to hold the panel in place.
And.. just a heads up... Don't let the shop doing the installation use rivets, screws or anything else to hold the panel, the holes will only show down the road.. Ratchet straps and Y clamps will do work perfectly if used in the proper manner.
could you back up a bit and take another pic?. It looks like SMC, but hard to tell from being so close. But just remember, the glue I posted above will glue either panel so it's not really that important. The issue will be the gun needed to use the glue.
I hope its a better photo. The issue is in the bonding, i have FRP panel glue, a gallon, and i just bought sem 49747 at the price of 42.00 per 7 oz. (not sure 7 oz will do the job) , and if the panel is FRP i would take the sem stuff back. Also is this panel press molded or hand laminated ? I think it's hand laminated because the surface is wavy! Any thoughts. any comments help.
thanks
39747 Cures in the same color as the original stuff, but what it allows you is way more work time than the original GM 2 part epoxy. The OEM glue gave you about 20 minutes of work time which really meant you had to be on your toes when doing the install.
This is very odd. I have never seen the adhesive on a 1970 be black. I do know the body putty adhesive on a 1963-1967 is black.,,,,but I have never seen the 1970 with black adhesive. I believe it is a reddish-brown color. But then again...I could be wrong... but doubt it.
And.. just a heads up... Don't let the shop doing the installation use rivets, screws or anything else to hold the panel, the holes will only show down the road.. Ratchet straps and Y clamps will do work perfectly if used in the proper manner.
Willcox
I do AGREE (somewhat). Hopefully the shop doing this has CLUE and does not go the easy route and drill holes recklessly in your panel.
There is a 'trick' to using screws when mounting panels. It has EVERYTHING to do with where you drill and how you secure your panel if you do not have the straps or clamps to do the job.....and the holes will NEVER come back and haunt you. If you can do it without drilling into the panel..GREAT...but I can say it is not the end of the world if you do...but you have to know where on the panel to do it so they do not show up.
AS for the adhesive. I DO use the SEM product and have the gun to apply it. But in this case I personally would not. I use EVERCOAT SMC panel adhesive (part number 994).
I also use red hardener and when I do so...it matches the factory reddish-brown adhesive color. I can also control the cure times due to how much hardener I use. If I put the 994 in the refrigerator a few hours before needing it on really hot summer days.
If you choose to have the shop use the SEM adhesive....they better make sure they grind back the adhesive that oozes out as much as possible so the seam can be filled in with EVERCOAT's Vette Panel Adhesive ( part number 870).
I know that the SEM will work...but...keep in mind that I have been doing this long before the SEM products came out and when I have had great success in the 996 working. It does not make sense for me to change...regardless of technology.
I do use the SEM and FUSOR products on the Corvettes where that type of adhesive was used form the facotry....and the adhesive is applied UNDER the panel where NO seams need to be filled in. The only area that does come to mind where an exposed seam needs to be filled in is the rear door jamb the 'B' pillar of a 1984-1996 Corvette.
I do AGREE (somewhat). Hopefully the shop doing this has CLUE and does not go the easy route and drill holes recklessly in your panel.
There is a 'trick' to using screws when mounting panels. It has EVERYTHING to do with where you drill and how you secure your panel if you do not have the straps or clamps to do the job.....and the holes will NEVER come back and haunt you. If you can do it without drilling into the panel..GREAT...but I can say it is not the end of the world if you do...but you have to know where on the panel to do it so they do not show up.
AS for the adhesive. I DO use the SEM product and have the gun to apply it. But in this case I personally would not. I use EVERCOAT SMC panel adhesive (part number 994).
I also use red hardener and when I do so...it matches the factory reddish-brown adhesive color. I can also control the cure times due to how much hardener I use. If I put the 994 in the refrigerator a few hours before needing it on really hot summer days.
If you choose to have the shop use the SEM adhesive....they better make sure they grind back the adhesive that oozes out as much as possible so the seam can be filled in with EVERCOAT's Vette Panel Adhesive ( part number 870).
I know that the SEM will work...but...keep in mind that I have been doing this long before the SEM products came out and when I have had great success in the 996 working. It does not make sense for me to change...regardless of technology.
I do use the SEM and FUSOR products on the Corvettes where that type of adhesive was used form the facotry....and the adhesive is applied UNDER the panel where NO seams need to be filled in. The only area that does come to mind where an exposed seam needs to be filled in is the rear door jamb the 'B' pillar of a 1984-1996 Corvette.
11-03-2016, 10:56 AM
replacement body panels
