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You have to remove the rear calipers
You have to drill out the rivets holding the rear rotors on to the axle but mark the position of the rotor so it is installed in the same position. This assumes no one has removed the rotors before you.
Having a copy of the factory Chassis Service Manual would be an excellent idea.
The worst part--by far--of the job is installing the pin/spring/retainer cup assemblies for the shoes.
Search this forum for the words "brake dental floss" for a nice trick that seems to hold great promise. (I did mine before reading that hint and it sure sounds as if it will save a lot of time and aggravation.)
When working on mine I was able to install the driver side retainer assemblies within about 20 minutes, without much frustration and without any sort of "celebration". I worked for more than an hour on the passenger side before I gave up and soothed my nerves... I had a helper the next day and it still took quite a lot of time.
Once the rotor is off the car they are really not that hard to install. The only issue is the rear pin which is sandwiched between the backing plate shield and the spindle support. The only way to remove and replace this pin is to remove the shield which I do not advise... Leave it and replace the other hardware if bad.
The shoe once installed must be brandished after installation.. it breaks in the shoes to the drum. GM did this by having the car on a roll tester and the rear wheels driven at 50 mph and pulling the handle upward 10-12 clicks. Once there operate it at this tension for 55-60 seconds and then release. You can do the same thing just driving the car.
Use this instruction sheet and if done correctly they will hold the car.
-Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Nov 14, 2016 at 08:26 PM.
Most of the Vendors sell a " Parking Brake Installation Tool" Its a cheap screwdriver with a notch cut in the end. I got mine a long time ago, and it didn't come with any instructions. Its still in my toolbox, never did figure out what it was supposed to do. I ended up grinding a pair of needle nose Vice Grips to grab the Parking Brake Pins on the back side of the shoes. I can say that as the original owner of my 80, my parking brake never worked when the car was new. Twice I set out on a mission to fix it, both times replacing the shoes and hardware. Adjusted the shoes so that they would drag, then sanded the high spots off. Then re adjusted. Once done I could set the brake, and still push the car on flat ground by hand, twice. After 36 years my car has a working parking brake for the first time. It was a perk of installing a C4 Rear End and C6 Brakes.
Hello,
I did my rear parking brake service about a year ago and still holds fine on moderate inclines. I have not tried it at mt Washington on the summit yet.
I had to start with all new shoes non stainless steel backed. All new stainless steel hardware. I flexed the backing plate back sufficiently
to sneak the spring pins in. (1968)
I replaced both cables as these were original and stretched.
With new brake components and stretched cables you'll never get the proper tension.
With the new components, and burnished as required, I can park with a 4speed car confidently on moderate inclines and return to find my car where I parked it.
Hope this reply provided the proper words of encouragement.
I'm living proof it can be done however many have not had the same results.
Marshal
Another bit of advise. Check the brackets holding the brack cables. Any flex or in my case the bracket on the frame by the trailing arm was pulling out. No matter what you adjust or replace, it will never hold firm until that bracket is secured! Good luck, you'll get it if you take your time! Have someone work the parking brake while you check all areas.
Following the description Willcox shows in the post where I use a fish scale and achieve the 80 lbs of pull to get to the 14th click. Many people do not do this.
I also ONLY like to use the cross-over brake cable where the sleeving is JUST LIKE what GM designed and it is the spiral wire sleeve...and not any of the black coated stuff.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Dub, my left side actuator lever has a tendency to slip out of the brake shoe slot when applying the park brake. Right side has never failed. Ever run across this and if so, what is the fix?
Dub, my left side actuator lever has a tendency to slip out of the brake shoe slot when applying the park brake. Right side has never failed. Ever run across this and if so, what is the fix?
Possibility is the two halves of the actuator lever could be binding up, I've seen that before. Spring tension from the cable where the ball hooks in could be another issue (weak spring) or wear in the actuator lever.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
The brake hardware was replaced with ss a few years ago along with a new park brake cable. A binding actuator just might be the problem which may be preventing the ball from seating properly.
Dub, my left side actuator lever has a tendency to slip out of the brake shoe slot when applying the park brake. Right side has never failed. Ever run across this and if so, what is the fix?
YES. I have had Corvettes that did the SAME thing. Rare that it does it...but it does happen. When it took it apart and looked. The end of the lever. that contact your shoe was worn slightly and rounded....and allowed the shoe to slip off when the cable was pulled and the lever moved as designed. It was clearly visible where the wear was on the lever.
The lever assembly need to be replaced. or possibly taking it out and welding and filing it back correct. I replaced the ones I have found due to I have the parts and it is faster.
The brake hardware was replaced with ss a few years ago along with a new park brake cable. A binding actuator just might be the problem which may be preventing the ball from seating properly.
Another thought...
Did you use SS shoes or the stock shoes. Never use SS hardware with SS shoes..