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Best method to install studs in the trailing arm....?

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Old Nov 30, 2016 | 06:04 AM
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Default Best method to install studs in the trailing arm....?

I do not have a press....I was thinking about getting them started by tapping them in and then stacking up flat washers and using an impact on the nut and pulling them the rest of the way in....Kind of like how the bearing install works. I would rather not use any heat because I don't want to ruin the new paint.

Brian
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Old Nov 30, 2016 | 08:05 AM
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Back when I didn't have a press I did what you describe. Put grease in between the washers to allow the one touching the nut to spin. It works, but I don't like it. There were several times I stretched a stud and/or broke one. I got a Harbor Freight press for around $100 and it has more than paid for itself in other jobs.
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Old Nov 30, 2016 | 08:32 AM
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take it to a machinery shop and have the work performed, try to be able to watch so it is done correctly.
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Old Nov 30, 2016 | 11:02 AM
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I would think you would be able to pound them in.
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Old Nov 30, 2016 | 04:01 PM
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Best method? Or easiest method? Is the axle out? If it is, best is to take it to a machine shop otherwise it will just be awkward. Easiest is to pound them in a bit to reassemble the trailing arm and then use the method you described to finish them off with a torque wrench, not an impact air wrench.
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Old Nov 30, 2016 | 06:54 PM
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Beating them in is out of the question....just my opinon on that.

Possibly try this.


I generally am not a fan of using the threads to pull the wheel stud in.

I have a tool that looks a lot like the lock plate suppressor tool for a GM steering column...but it is a bit stouter. My tool allows me to pull the stud through and not stress the threads due to the nut is not spinning on it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/o...FUc6gQodFkcHcg

DUB
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Old Nov 30, 2016 | 09:50 PM
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Thanks for all the ideas....DUB I didn't really think about the stress on the threads....I'll use 2 deepwell sockets, coupling nut and another bolt with washer to pull them on. I'll post some pics and maybe even a video if it works.

Brian
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Wee
Thanks for all the ideas....DUB I didn't really think about the stress on the threads....I'll use 2 deepwell sockets, coupling nut and another bolt with washer to pull them on. I'll post some pics and maybe even a video if it works.

Brian
Brian,

I know the wheel stud will go in....because before I got my tool....I could do it. So I am sure you can get it to seat.

But something in the back of my head .....a long time ago....said to look in a factory service manual and a photo shows the tool that is used to do this. SO...feeling like I was doing my customers an injustice and opening myself up for a premature failure where I would have to go and do it all over again. So I got the tool.

DUB

Last edited by DUB; Dec 1, 2016 at 06:07 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 08:44 PM
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Well my idea worked like a charm....I did freeze the studs for a few days....I didn't heat the trailing arm. They pulled on pretty easy.


Brian
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 11:24 PM
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Harbor Freight is your friend on jobs like this. Even the cheap ball joint tool can get the job done or a vise and a deep socket if it's off the car.
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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 06:08 AM
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The coupling nut and washers/spacer would of been fine. If you really wanted to see how hard it was on the threads/bolt use a torque wrench and see if it takes more than the bolt size & grade calls for to pull it.
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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 12:04 PM
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This method might be overkill but it worked well and was cheap. I was surprised how easy they pulled on....My impact is only a 12 volt.

Brian
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