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Best method to install studs in the trailing arm....?
I do not have a press....I was thinking about getting them started by tapping them in and then stacking up flat washers and using an impact on the nut and pulling them the rest of the way in....Kind of like how the bearing install works. I would rather not use any heat because I don't want to ruin the new paint.
Back when I didn't have a press I did what you describe. Put grease in between the washers to allow the one touching the nut to spin. It works, but I don't like it. There were several times I stretched a stud and/or broke one. I got a Harbor Freight press for around $100 and it has more than paid for itself in other jobs.
Best method? Or easiest method? Is the axle out? If it is, best is to take it to a machine shop otherwise it will just be awkward. Easiest is to pound them in a bit to reassemble the trailing arm and then use the method you described to finish them off with a torque wrench, not an impact air wrench.
I generally am not a fan of using the threads to pull the wheel stud in.
I have a tool that looks a lot like the lock plate suppressor tool for a GM steering column...but it is a bit stouter. My tool allows me to pull the stud through and not stress the threads due to the nut is not spinning on it.
Thanks for all the ideas....DUB I didn't really think about the stress on the threads....I'll use 2 deepwell sockets, coupling nut and another bolt with washer to pull them on. I'll post some pics and maybe even a video if it works.
Thanks for all the ideas....DUB I didn't really think about the stress on the threads....I'll use 2 deepwell sockets, coupling nut and another bolt with washer to pull them on. I'll post some pics and maybe even a video if it works.
Brian
Brian,
I know the wheel stud will go in....because before I got my tool....I could do it. So I am sure you can get it to seat.
But something in the back of my head .....a long time ago....said to look in a factory service manual and a photo shows the tool that is used to do this. SO...feeling like I was doing my customers an injustice and opening myself up for a premature failure where I would have to go and do it all over again. So I got the tool.
The coupling nut and washers/spacer would of been fine. If you really wanted to see how hard it was on the threads/bolt use a torque wrench and see if it takes more than the bolt size & grade calls for to pull it.