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Those are Chinese copies of the Comp cams pro-magnum rocker. I have the real versions in 1.5 and they work well. You will want the Non-self aligning rockers.
Those look o-k to me, but I'm partial to Comp Cams products.
I know, but they're literally a 70% price difference; are they 70% better?
After slowly learning about Comp Cams and particularly the XE flat tappets, I always pause to wonder whether their brand name is actually earned on the basis of quality or just marketing dollars spent?
There seems to be a near-universal acclaim for the Ultra Pro Magnum RRs; but MAN, they're expensive.
If you are not stuck on SS these have an excellent reputation on the hot rod forums and are made in USA. I bought a set for my 355 but have not installed them yet.
All new heads come with guide plates. It doesn't mean you can't use self aligning rockers. You just need to use head bolt washers under the rocker stud to keep the geometry the same, as if the guide plate were still under the stud.
There is no reason you shouldn't go with 7/16" studs if you are buying new rockers. It will provide less deflection of the stud and give better valve train stability.
I personally use crower ss rr's. The comps had some issues as I recall when I researched rockers.
In my last Motor I used Crower SS Rockers. In my current Motor I used Comp Cam SS Rockers. People used to commit on how quite the valve Train sounded with the Crowers . The Comp Cams make more noise, and my engine builder sez they should compared to the Crowers. This make no sense to me, but its the way it is.
Hi "mako", would NEVER use/recommend a "cast" rocker body on any build whatsoever!
On a side note to the OP, the ONLY time we sell ANY 3/8" stud rockers is when the customer just wants a rocker arm change where the heads are not being removed for studs and guide plate machining. Aftermarket heads all get 7/16" AND a set lightweight retainers. These are 2 non-negotiable items included on all our builds.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Just about all our 100% stock-appearing SB retro-hyd roller units get stainless rollers. We prefer 1.5" x 7/16" but we have every size on the shelf including 1.5, 1.6, with 3/8", and 7/16" studs. No pricing where I am now but I believe they are around $150.00/16. We also have 1.6 (int) x 1.5 (exh) kits as well. These are all for the 7/16" studs.
Ok guys on the 3/8th vs. 7/16th studs thing, I thought I just had to use what my heads come with... My heads came with 3/8" studs...
The Comp Ultra Pro Magnum 1.6 SBC 3/8th" studs are on sale for $303 on Comp's Amazon store right now and work just gave me a $50 Amazon gift certificate for winning some award so it seems like a no brainer.
-To switch to 7/16" I'd need to buy new studs and replace all the studs in the heads, right? What's this kinda thing cost and what's involved in making the swap?
FWIW my engine is using scorpion rr with 7/16 arp studs and a jomar stud girdle.The only thing I would add on the studs is to use thread sealer to eliminate any oil leaking into the intake ports.
Good luck with your build.
Dave
FWIW my engine is using scorpion rr with 7/16 arp studs and a jomar stud girdle.The only thing I would add on the studs is to use thread sealer to eliminate any oil leaking into the intake ports.
Good luck with your build.
Dave
I am also using Scorpion rockers (non-self aligning) with 7/16 ARP studs and Comp guide plates on my C4 racecar. They have held up well and I shift anywhere from 6500RPM to 7000RPM depending on the situation.
Ok guys on the 3/8th vs. 7/16th studs thing, I thought I just had to use what my heads come with... My heads came with 3/8" studs...
The Comp Ultra Pro Magnum 1.6 SBC 3/8th" studs are on sale for $303 on Comp's Amazon store right now and work just gave me a $50 Amazon gift certificate for winning some award so it seems like a no brainer.
-To switch to 7/16" I'd need to buy new studs and replace all the studs in the heads, right? What's this kinda thing cost and what's involved in making the swap?
Adam
Adam
Before you commit to buying the comps do some research on them. You don't want needle bearings coming out and getting into your engine. I don't recall if this was the failure mode of the comps or not, but it is one type of failure for a roller rocker. I looked into the comps and I like to save a buck but still decided on the Crower's. My main reasons were, reliability, they fit under the stock valve covers, and steel has a much longer fatigue failure life than aluminum.
I think the Harland sharps would have been my first pick for the aluminum rockers followed by scorpion.
I would not go too cheap on the rockers it could cost big down the road. The ARP 7/16" studs were not expensive as I recall. The holes in the head accepts 3/8" or 7/16" studs.
What I'm actually looking for is a recommendation; is one clearly "better" than the other?
If not, what are the pros and cons of self-aligning vs. nonself-aligning?
(Should I just stick with nonself-aligning and the guide plates?)
Adam
I don't think one is better than the other really. I didn't notice any self aligning roller rockers once you got beyond a certain performance point. It seemed like self aligning was more for the stock or not far above stock type of valve train and all the higher perf rockers used guide plates.
You just can't use both at the same time.
It could be that there are high perf roller rockers that are self aligning, I just didn't come across them or look for any.
I went from self aligning to guide plates. Not a real problem. It kind of depends on the design of the guide plate. On my Dart plate I had to cut them in the middle to change the distance between the push rods to get them to align with the rockers. With the AFR guide plates they are of a two piece design, tongue and groove like, this way the distance between the push rods can be adjusted to align with the rockers.
Self aligning was easier to be sure.
Self aligning were made for the tuned port engines so people didn't have to add guide plates to run roller rockers. There is no good reason to use them with a set of heads with guide plates.
Another note, if you are using guide plates make SURE they are hardened as well as use hardened pushrods. If one or neither of them are then they can get torn up pretty quick sending metal bits all throughout the engine.
-To switch to 7/16" I'd need to buy new studs and replace all the studs in the heads, right? What's this kinda thing cost and what's involved in making the swap?
Adam
Adam
ARP has high tensile strength studs. 7/16 rockers fit on 7/16th studs not interchangeable with the 3/8th counter parts
I install rocker studs with sealant because there are certain thing that i don't like to use loc-tite blue or red on. because it takes heat to dissassemble.