How Do You adjust outside door release
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 941
Likes: 10
How Do You adjust outside door release
I have a 74 Coupe that I bought a few months ago. Going over all the little problems this winter.
The outside, drivers side door release does not fully allow the door to open without a sharp pull on the door. The inside release handle works fine, with no effort.
Looking in the door with, I can see that the inside release handle moves the lock assembly a tad further than the outside does. There is a rod coming down from the outside release to a threaded pivot for adjustment. How in the world is one supposed to get the the back side of the pivot to remove the retainer so the threaded pivot can be turned and then somehow get the snap retainer back on.
I would appreciate any tips on adjusting the outside lock release to function properly.
Due to my slow 24K dial up connection searching is not possible
Thank You
8Valve
The outside, drivers side door release does not fully allow the door to open without a sharp pull on the door. The inside release handle works fine, with no effort.
Looking in the door with, I can see that the inside release handle moves the lock assembly a tad further than the outside does. There is a rod coming down from the outside release to a threaded pivot for adjustment. How in the world is one supposed to get the the back side of the pivot to remove the retainer so the threaded pivot can be turned and then somehow get the snap retainer back on.
I would appreciate any tips on adjusting the outside lock release to function properly.
Due to my slow 24K dial up connection searching is not possible
Thank You
8Valve
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 43
From: Eastern US XX
Remove the door panel, roll the window up, look around inside the door with a drop/flashlight and you'll be able to see what you are looking for. It does require patience, as many things do!
Last edited by pws69; Dec 20, 2016 at 05:19 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Unless you do a search and find another thread on this. I would be more than glad to help you by talking with you on the phone about this. But I am NOT going to type it all out.
The problems can be...the outside door handle rod has worn into your outside door handle lever....OR...is is missing a very important clip that securely holds that rod CORRECTLY to your outside door handle lever. OR...you actually have a worn latch mechanism....OR...some idiot got in there not knowing what they were doing and did 'something' that finally broke....which I have seen more times that I care to remember.
Either way...it can be repaired...and this may also 'possibly' be attributed to worn door hinge bushings...thus causing the door to hang heavy on the striker bolt. But this can be easily diagnosed by partially opening up the door and grabbing the back bottom edge and lifting up on the door and feel for movement. AND...if you have bad door hinge bushings...it can effect the spinning ring on your striker bolt and cause it to also wear out or vise-versa.
PM me if you want help over the phone if no one want to get into and send you printed text about it.
DUB
The problems can be...the outside door handle rod has worn into your outside door handle lever....OR...is is missing a very important clip that securely holds that rod CORRECTLY to your outside door handle lever. OR...you actually have a worn latch mechanism....OR...some idiot got in there not knowing what they were doing and did 'something' that finally broke....which I have seen more times that I care to remember.
Either way...it can be repaired...and this may also 'possibly' be attributed to worn door hinge bushings...thus causing the door to hang heavy on the striker bolt. But this can be easily diagnosed by partially opening up the door and grabbing the back bottom edge and lifting up on the door and feel for movement. AND...if you have bad door hinge bushings...it can effect the spinning ring on your striker bolt and cause it to also wear out or vise-versa.
PM me if you want help over the phone if no one want to get into and send you printed text about it.
DUB
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 941
Likes: 10
Thank You Dub, PM Sent
8Valve
8Valve
Unless you do a search and find another thread on this. I would be more than glad to help you by talking with you on the phone about this. But I am NOT going to type it all out.
The problems can be...the outside door handle rod has worn into your outside door handle lever....OR...is is missing a very important clip that securely holds that rod CORRECTLY to your outside door handle lever. OR...you actually have a worn latch mechanism....OR...some idiot got in there not knowing what they were doing and did 'something' that finally broke....which I have seen more times that I care to remember.
Either way...it can be repaired...and this may also 'possibly' be attributed to worn door hinge bushings...thus causing the door to hang heavy on the striker bolt. But this can be easily diagnosed by partially opening up the door and grabbing the back bottom edge and lifting up on the door and feel for movement. AND...if you have bad door hinge bushings...it can effect the spinning ring on your striker bolt and cause it to also wear out or vise-versa.
PM me if you want help over the phone if no one want to get into and send you printed text about it.
DUB
The problems can be...the outside door handle rod has worn into your outside door handle lever....OR...is is missing a very important clip that securely holds that rod CORRECTLY to your outside door handle lever. OR...you actually have a worn latch mechanism....OR...some idiot got in there not knowing what they were doing and did 'something' that finally broke....which I have seen more times that I care to remember.
Either way...it can be repaired...and this may also 'possibly' be attributed to worn door hinge bushings...thus causing the door to hang heavy on the striker bolt. But this can be easily diagnosed by partially opening up the door and grabbing the back bottom edge and lifting up on the door and feel for movement. AND...if you have bad door hinge bushings...it can effect the spinning ring on your striker bolt and cause it to also wear out or vise-versa.
PM me if you want help over the phone if no one want to get into and send you printed text about it.
DUB
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,227
Likes: 670
From: Northeast
If in talking with Dub you need a visual take a look here.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/4696/
If it was working previously there probably is something else wrong than adjusting that barrel on the rod. I don't know why you would adjust it except for setting it up for the first time.
Pic 7/17 explains that sliding the clip is what allows you to remove the swivel pin. Push too far on the clip and it ends up in the bottom of the door. Slide the clip back on and just snap the swivel pin back in.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/catalogs...?cat=&q=zdr322
Mentioned by Dub that needs to be put on correctly is in 9/17.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/catalogs.../?cat=&q=dr345
Good luck. This will help if you need to replace the handle.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/4696/
If it was working previously there probably is something else wrong than adjusting that barrel on the rod. I don't know why you would adjust it except for setting it up for the first time.
Pic 7/17 explains that sliding the clip is what allows you to remove the swivel pin. Push too far on the clip and it ends up in the bottom of the door. Slide the clip back on and just snap the swivel pin back in.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/catalogs...?cat=&q=zdr322
Mentioned by Dub that needs to be put on correctly is in 9/17.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/catalogs.../?cat=&q=dr345
Good luck. This will help if you need to replace the handle.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
If what 'karol' helps you out and you do not need to talk with me...GREAT. But if you need to talk with me...You have my number and I will still help you if needed.
EXACTLY...this clip MUST be installed as you see it in the photo.
DUB
DUB
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 941
Likes: 10
DUB'
I received your PM with contact info, my sincere thanks ! However, today I found the problem, it was actually three fold. On the outside door release the push surface on the paddle bottom was worn with a groove about 3/16 " deep. The mating lever surface also had been worn down over the years and the spring on the lever was broken. I have a new complete release assembly coming my way, hopefully be here by Saturday.
The only 2 questions, whats the trick to get the 7/16" rear retention nut on the handle assembly and also whats the trick to the the adjusting barrel clip back into place to lock the barrel. I sure cant get my hand in there.
Thanks Dub and the other posts. I appreciate the help
8Valve
I received your PM with contact info, my sincere thanks ! However, today I found the problem, it was actually three fold. On the outside door release the push surface on the paddle bottom was worn with a groove about 3/16 " deep. The mating lever surface also had been worn down over the years and the spring on the lever was broken. I have a new complete release assembly coming my way, hopefully be here by Saturday.
The only 2 questions, whats the trick to get the 7/16" rear retention nut on the handle assembly and also whats the trick to the the adjusting barrel clip back into place to lock the barrel. I sure cant get my hand in there.
Thanks Dub and the other posts. I appreciate the help
8Valve
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
DUB'
The only 2 questions, whats the trick to get the 7/16" rear retention nut on the handle assembly and also whats the trick to the the adjusting barrel clip back into place to lock the barrel. I sure cant get my hand in there.
Thanks Dub and the other posts. I appreciate the help
8Valve
The only 2 questions, whats the trick to get the 7/16" rear retention nut on the handle assembly and also whats the trick to the the adjusting barrel clip back into place to lock the barrel. I sure cant get my hand in there.
Thanks Dub and the other posts. I appreciate the help
8Valve
That allows me to either:
1.) reach through the opening right there where you can see the backside of the lock cylinder, etc and reach in a with a short 7/16" wrench and begin to loosen it. With the latch dropped a bit and possibly remove your inner door handle rod...it will allow you to get in there.
2.) Or roll the window up and with a long 1/4" extension and ratchet and my 1/4" drive 7/16" swivel socket...I can get it to the nut and take it out using a ratchet. But when I do this I have the latch completely out of the car so I do not have to fight gettign to the nut.
AS for adjusting the barrel portion on the rod. What you DO NOT want to happen is that when you get it working. TEST your 'lock-unlock' portion of the latch mechanism. IF you have the barrel too far down...you will be able to lock the latch but NOT be able to unlock it.
Depending on wear on the latch and so on....sometimes adjusting this barrel can be a very fine line.
DUB
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 941
Likes: 10
Thank you DUB
8Valve
DUB
8Valve
DUB
On the nut for the door handle. I actually take out the three large Phillips head screws that hold the latch mechanism to the door....so it can drop.
That allows me to either:
1.) reach through the opening right there where you can see the backside of the lock cylinder, etc and reach in a with a short 7/16" wrench and begin to loosen it. With the latch dropped a bit and possibly remove your inner door handle rod...it will allow you to get in there.
2.) Or roll the window up and with a long 1/4" extension and ratchet and my 1/4" drive 7/16" swivel socket...I can get it to the nut and take it out using a ratchet. But when I do this I have the latch completely out of the car so I do not have to fight gettign to the nut.
AS for adjusting the barrel portion on the rod. What you DO NOT want to happen is that when you get it working. TEST your 'lock-unlock' portion of the latch mechanism. IF you have the barrel too far down...you will be able to lock the latch but NOT be able to unlock it.
Depending on wear on the latch and so on....sometimes adjusting this barrel can be a very fine line.
DUB
That allows me to either:
1.) reach through the opening right there where you can see the backside of the lock cylinder, etc and reach in a with a short 7/16" wrench and begin to loosen it. With the latch dropped a bit and possibly remove your inner door handle rod...it will allow you to get in there.
2.) Or roll the window up and with a long 1/4" extension and ratchet and my 1/4" drive 7/16" swivel socket...I can get it to the nut and take it out using a ratchet. But when I do this I have the latch completely out of the car so I do not have to fight gettign to the nut.
AS for adjusting the barrel portion on the rod. What you DO NOT want to happen is that when you get it working. TEST your 'lock-unlock' portion of the latch mechanism. IF you have the barrel too far down...you will be able to lock the latch but NOT be able to unlock it.
Depending on wear on the latch and so on....sometimes adjusting this barrel can be a very fine line.
DUB