Right oil choise?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 120
Likes: 15
Right oil choise?
My '68 has a 327/300 that looks fresh rebuilt and runs strong. My engine don't burn oil and has a proper oil pressure. Transmission is a 4-speed.
I own the car since may, and I have not changed the engine oil yet because it looked quite new. I've driven for about 1200 miles since and I'm assuming the oil is still in good conditions, but I don't know what kind of oil they put in when the car was in US.
I need also to change the gearbox oil (4-speed), so I'm planning to do both jobs in time for the next season, just to be sure of what is running in my Vette.
I've read lot of thread here regarding this and I know that's a long-debated argument, but I'm still a bit confused because there's many and many divergent opinions and I want to be sure to not make mistakes.
After some search now I'm oriented on those two products:
Gearbox: Castrol Manual EP 80W-90 API GL4 - ZF TE-ML 02A, 16A, 17A
Engine: Valvoline (VV205-6PK) VR1 SAE 10W-30 Racing Motor Oil
Could it be a right choice? My main use is for touring/vacation and fun, not race. Many thanks as usual!
EDIT: please excuse me for the "choice" typo in the Thread Title :/
I own the car since may, and I have not changed the engine oil yet because it looked quite new. I've driven for about 1200 miles since and I'm assuming the oil is still in good conditions, but I don't know what kind of oil they put in when the car was in US.
I need also to change the gearbox oil (4-speed), so I'm planning to do both jobs in time for the next season, just to be sure of what is running in my Vette.
I've read lot of thread here regarding this and I know that's a long-debated argument, but I'm still a bit confused because there's many and many divergent opinions and I want to be sure to not make mistakes.
After some search now I'm oriented on those two products:
Gearbox: Castrol Manual EP 80W-90 API GL4 - ZF TE-ML 02A, 16A, 17A
Engine: Valvoline (VV205-6PK) VR1 SAE 10W-30 Racing Motor Oil
Could it be a right choice? My main use is for touring/vacation and fun, not race. Many thanks as usual!
EDIT: please excuse me for the "choice" typo in the Thread Title :/
Last edited by Proton_ita; Dec 26, 2016 at 01:33 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Whatever oil you choose to use...MAKE SURE that you find out what the oil change interval is and follow it.
Some oils may need to be changed in 3 moths or 3000 miles....and some that can go longer.
DUB
Some oils may need to be changed in 3 moths or 3000 miles....and some that can go longer.
DUB
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 26,430
Likes: 493
My '68 has a 327/300 that looks fresh rebuilt and runs strong. My engine don't burn oil and has a proper oil pressure. Transmission is a 4-speed.
I own the car since may, and I have not changed the engine oil yet because it looked quite new. I've driven for about 1200 miles since and I'm assuming the oil is still in good conditions, but I don't know what kind of oil they put in when the car was in US.
I need also to change the gearbox oil (4-speed), so I'm planning to do both jobs in time for the next season, just to be sure of what is running in my Vette.
I've read lot of thread here regarding this and I know that's a long-debated argument, but I'm still a bit confused because there's many and many divergent opinions and I want to be sure to not make mistakes.
After some search now I'm oriented on those two products:
Gearbox: Castrol Manual EP 80W-90 API GL4 - ZF TE-ML 02A, 16A, 17A
Engine: Valvoline (VV205-6PK) VR1 SAE 10W-30 Racing Motor Oil
Could it be a right choice? My main use is for touring/vacation and fun, not race. Many thanks as usual!
EDIT: please excuse me for the "choice" typo in the Thread Title :/
I own the car since may, and I have not changed the engine oil yet because it looked quite new. I've driven for about 1200 miles since and I'm assuming the oil is still in good conditions, but I don't know what kind of oil they put in when the car was in US.
I need also to change the gearbox oil (4-speed), so I'm planning to do both jobs in time for the next season, just to be sure of what is running in my Vette.
I've read lot of thread here regarding this and I know that's a long-debated argument, but I'm still a bit confused because there's many and many divergent opinions and I want to be sure to not make mistakes.
After some search now I'm oriented on those two products:
Gearbox: Castrol Manual EP 80W-90 API GL4 - ZF TE-ML 02A, 16A, 17A
Engine: Valvoline (VV205-6PK) VR1 SAE 10W-30 Racing Motor Oil
Could it be a right choice? My main use is for touring/vacation and fun, not race. Many thanks as usual!
EDIT: please excuse me for the "choice" typo in the Thread Title :/
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
In Kalifornia, Racing Oil is another term for EPA exempt. It works just fine.
I doubt that Redline or Royal Purple is any different. Just kinda overpriced for a road car, IMHO.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 378
Likes: 19
Assuming the mtr still has a flat tappet cam, would have a look at the sticky in the performance forum for what oil to use with flat tappet engines. Recommend using 10-30 weight. The '68 owner's manual recommended oil change "every 4 months, except that if more than 6000 miles are driven in a 4 month period, change oil every 6000 miles". Interesting the owner's manual specified oil filter replacement at every other oil change.
Now days, oil/filter changes are normally done once a year. In this part of the country, where hobby cars are put away for the winter, oil changes are done at the end of the season, so that there is fresh oil in the sump during the lay-up time.
Now days, oil/filter changes are normally done once a year. In this part of the country, where hobby cars are put away for the winter, oil changes are done at the end of the season, so that there is fresh oil in the sump during the lay-up time.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 120
Likes: 15
http://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_racing.pdf
Assuming the mtr still has a flat tappet cam, would have a look at the sticky in the performance forum for what oil to use with flat tappet engines. Recommend using 10-30 weight. The '68 owner's manual recommended oil change "every 4 months, except that if more than 6000 miles are driven in a 4 month period, change oil every 6000 miles". Interesting the owner's manual specified oil filter replacement at every other oil change.
Now days, oil/filter changes are normally done once a year. In this part of the country, where hobby cars are put away for the winter, oil changes are done at the end of the season, so that there is fresh oil in the sump during the lay-up time.
Now days, oil/filter changes are normally done once a year. In this part of the country, where hobby cars are put away for the winter, oil changes are done at the end of the season, so that there is fresh oil in the sump during the lay-up time.
About the change period, I'm also oriented to a oil and filter change once a year
Last edited by Proton_ita; Dec 27, 2016 at 03:26 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 120
Likes: 15
Just another question: can I use a 5w-50 or a 10w-60 instead of a 10w-30 (same ZDDP and other factors)?
I'm skeptical to be honest, but in my country these kinds of oil are far more common and cheap than the US-common 10w-30 (I just paste the Valvoline line but it's the same for other vendors):
I'm skeptical to be honest, but in my country these kinds of oil are far more common and cheap than the US-common 10w-30 (I just paste the Valvoline line but it's the same for other vendors):
Last edited by Proton_ita; Dec 27, 2016 at 04:43 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 120
Likes: 15
I'm from Northern Italy, there's pretty cold here in this season and very hot in summer!
Last edited by Proton_ita; Dec 27, 2016 at 12:37 PM.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 378
Likes: 19
It's precisely because I've read the sticky thread that I'm so confused :[/QUOTE]
Did not know that you read the sticky, so was not sure if you were aware of the ZDDP packages being greatly reduced when API came out with SM rated oil. The scuff package was reduced even more when SN came out. Maybe oil formulated in Europe is not governed by API, (American Pertrolem Institute) and you don't have to worry about lack of zinc and phosphorous. When you buy oil at the local parts store, does the bottle lable have any API ratings?
Did not know that you read the sticky, so was not sure if you were aware of the ZDDP packages being greatly reduced when API came out with SM rated oil. The scuff package was reduced even more when SN came out. Maybe oil formulated in Europe is not governed by API, (American Pertrolem Institute) and you don't have to worry about lack of zinc and phosphorous. When you buy oil at the local parts store, does the bottle lable have any API ratings?
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 297
From: Slovenia, EU
2017 C3 of Year Finalist
I was advised this oil:
http://www.mobil.co.uk/UK-English-LC...x1-10w40.aspx#
It is available in Europe and quite cheap. Otherwise Amsoil Z-rod is an import and costs quite much more.
http://www.mobil.co.uk/UK-English-LC...x1-10w40.aspx#
It is available in Europe and quite cheap. Otherwise Amsoil Z-rod is an import and costs quite much more.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 160
From: new iberia la
asking what oil to use is like asking whats your favorite food.. everyone likes something else. you motor should use a 10W30 ..conventional or synthetic is your choice.. The synthetic will extend the life of the motor but costs more but has 2-3 times the change interval length.. you can use an oil with zinc additive but since you have already broken in the cam , its not that critical anymore ..I like 10W30 Mobil One Extended Performance and change it every 15,000 miles as recommended...
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
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From: Charlotte NC
I was advised this oil:
http://www.mobil.co.uk/UK-English-LC...x1-10w40.aspx#
It is available in Europe and quite cheap. Otherwise Amsoil Z-rod is an import and costs quite much more.
http://www.mobil.co.uk/UK-English-LC...x1-10w40.aspx#
It is available in Europe and quite cheap. Otherwise Amsoil Z-rod is an import and costs quite much more.
DUB
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 297
From: Slovenia, EU
2017 C3 of Year Finalist
Le Mans Master
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Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
If your car sits for long periods of time esp in cold climates do the rear
I built a new rearend yrs ago sat in my garage (good weather out here too) for a few yrs. Before I put it back in the car I cracked the rear cover off as I couldnt remember if I filled it or not
Looked like milk, even pitted the new pinion bearings
Sitting kills cars
I built a new rearend yrs ago sat in my garage (good weather out here too) for a few yrs. Before I put it back in the car I cracked the rear cover off as I couldnt remember if I filled it or not
Looked like milk, even pitted the new pinion bearings
Sitting kills cars