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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 10:53 PM
  #1  
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Default Steering box play

I need advice on how much play is allowed on the original steering box from the input shaft to the pitman
shaft on my 73? I can turn the input with the rag joint by hand about 12 to 1 o'clock without movement of the
pitman arm. Just need to know if this is a problem that needs to be addressed.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.

Donnie
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 06:08 AM
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None, as you move the steer input shaft there should be a slight drag at dead center, the movement at the pitman should start immediately. And yes this should be addressed especially if you have P/S because there is a lag in time for the cylinder to activate, so with play in steer gear and P/S cyl lag your steering, well for lack of a better term probably horrible.
P/S cyl lag: the pitman arm moves a ball stud in the control valve which in turn moves the valve causing oil flow to 1 side of cyl or the other. All of this happens before the steer linkage starts to move.
But now I assuming you have P/S.
Make sure you check the oil level in the gear box.
Over tightening of the adjustment to eliminate the play due to worm gears will cause premature bearing failure. Ask me how I know this. Do this adj. with the front wheels off the ground, don't go any tighter than the slight resistance in the center. If you still have play a new gear box might be in order. T
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by terrys6t8roadster
None, as you move the steer input shaft there should be a slight drag at dead center, the movement at the pitman should start immediately. And yes this should be addressed especially if you have P/S because there is a lag in time for the cylinder to activate, so with play in steer gear and P/S cyl lag your steering, well for lack of a better term probably horrible.
P/S cyl lag: the pitman arm moves a ball stud in the control valve which in turn moves the valve causing oil flow to 1 side of cyl or the other. All of this happens before the steer linkage starts to move.
But now I assuming you have P/S.
Make sure you check the oil level in the gear box.
Over tightening of the adjustment to eliminate the play due to worm gears will cause premature bearing failure. Ask me how I know this. Do this adj. with the front wheels off the ground, don't go any tighter than the slight resistance in the center. If you still have play a new gear box might be in order. T


There should be no play in the box.....

At 65,000 miles on my 78 in 2010, I had significant play in the OEM steering box and had GTR1999, Gary Ramadei, custom blueprint/rebuild the box. He took the box apart in front of me (he lives in New Haven CT not too far from me), replaced worn components, adds a custom oilte shaft bushing, takes pictures of every step and sends to you over email, and hand adjusts the final product. My box now has zero play...better than when it was brand new from the factory. Something you might want to consider.....
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 09:49 AM
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I thank you both for your replies. Yes I have p/s and the 73 set for
over 20 years untouched while I was on the road.
Do this adj. with the front wheels off the ground, don't go any tighter than the slight resistance in the center.
Terry, when you say not to go any tighter than center, could you explain
what you meant?

Donnie
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 11:28 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by DonnieP73
I thank you both for your replies. Yes I have p/s and the 73 set for
over 20 years untouched while I was on the road.

Terry, when you say not to go any tighter than center, could you explain
what you meant?

Donnie
Adjusting the box by feel is a good way to destroy the gears. Adjusting the preload first, out of the car, with a dial torque wrench is the correct way. Without rebuilding it first, the readings can be inaccurate.
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 02:30 PM
  #6  
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Another for Gary, he did my steering box and works great.
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 04:50 PM
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If you have P/S, you will need to have the engine running when you do that test. Without hydraulic pressure to take up the designed-in slack in the P/S control valve, a dead system will always have play in it.
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 06:32 PM
  #8  
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Thanks all.
I have decided to have the box rebuilt as soon as I am able to remove it.

Donnie
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Old Jan 4, 2017 | 07:01 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by DonnieP73
I thank you both for your replies. Yes I have p/s and the 73 set for
over 20 years untouched while I was on the road.

Terry, when you say not to go any tighter than center, could you explain
what you meant?

Donnie
Hi Donnie, if you want to get real serious about the adj. disconnect the P/S cyl from pitman arm,[you'll get a better feel for what you are doing], loosen the jam nut and start turning the adj. screw in until the play is gone, rotate steer wheel lock to [as many times as you like]. The movement should feel the same, then tighten the adj. screw gradually until you feel a slight tightness at dead center of gear box rotation[which should be were the steer wheel should be when driving in a straight line]. Tighten jam nut. If adj. screw in at same level or close to jam nut you need to get the box serviced.
Good luck, T
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Old Jan 4, 2017 | 07:29 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by DonnieP73
Thanks all.
I have decided to have the box rebuilt as soon as I am able to remove it.

Donnie
Post pics of how you remove the box if you can. I'll probably have to do mine soon.
Fran
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Old Jan 4, 2017 | 11:33 AM
  #11  
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Remove left-front wheel; pull off Pitman arm; remove capture bolts on both sides of the ragjoint; remove three large bolts/nuts that retain the box on the frame rail; carefully slide box off steering shaft.

You can also loosen the steering column to remove it from ragjoint BEFORE removing the box...if that seems preferable to you.

Key concerns:

Align the steering wheel/ragjoint/steering box to 'neutral' position before disassembly. Assure same upon rebuild.

Take care not to put push/pull forces on the steering column, as it is designed to collapse under impact.

You need a good 'puller' for the Pitman arm.
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