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I have a vbp 360 composite spring, vansteel 420 composite spring and a vbp 500 composite spring, the 2 vbp have a similar curve, the vansteel is less curved, slightly straighter
the 360 gives a nice low looking ride height,
the 420 gives a nice ride aswell, but when on the car, cos its straighter, the ends actually turn up slightly which looks very odd, looks like its ready to snap
the 500, keeps its curve, like the 360, but it causes the car to sit around inch or so higher, i would like to keep the 500 on the car for track use, but would like a lower ride heoght, already have the long bolts, could i cut the polys to reduce height or ???
I have a vbp 360 composite spring, vansteel 420 composite spring and a vbp 500 composite spring, the 2 vbp have a similar curve, the vansteel is less curved, slightly straighter
the 360 gives a nice low looking ride height,
the 420 gives a nice ride aswell, but when on the car, cos its straighter, the ends actually turn up slightly which looks very odd, looks like its ready to snap
the 500, keeps its curve, like the 360, but it causes the car to sit around inch or so higher, i would like to keep the 500 on the car for track use, but would like a lower ride heoght, already have the long bolts, could i cut the polys to reduce height or ???
Is the end of your current bolts near (or worse, below) the rim? If not, why not fit some longer bolts? Don't see any reason you couldn't cut down the poly spring bolt bushings a bit, if they're anything like mine then they're pretty thick, but I don't think you'll get anywhere near an inch from that.
Out of interest, 500lb is a pretty heavy rear spring, what front springs are you running?
Last edited by Metalhead140; Jan 17, 2017 at 07:20 PM.
Thin poly spring bushings used to be available.
I used Guldstrand ones on my rear spring.
Do not know where to get them now.
Some of the current suspension suppliers might have them.
Poly bushings can be trimmed in a lathe.
It is a pain to do and some what of an approximation on size.
Sanding might also be an option.
Chevrolet specs the rear suspension ride height by measuring the difference in height between the inner and outer camber strut rod bolts. IIRC, about 2" for the street, about 1 1/4" for racing.
Net net, you want the half shafts to be horizontal or nearly so.
Is the end of your current bolts near (or worse, below) the rim? If not, why not fit some longer bolts? Don't see any reason you couldn't cut down the poly spring bolt bushings a bit, if they're anything like mine then they're pretty thick, but I don't think you'll get anywhere near an inch from that.
Out of interest, 500lb is a pretty heavy rear spring, what front springs are you running?
have 18 inch rims, yeah the bolts are miles away from rim, does anyone do longer bolts or just find a longer bolt with same thickness?
want to run a 500 spring for track use mainly, people on here seem to suggest thats the best to go for and going with 600lb/ft vansteel full coilovers in the front
Last edited by corvettedave383; Jan 18, 2017 at 03:28 PM.
Thin poly spring bushings used to be available.
I used Guldstrand ones on my rear spring.
Do not know where to get them now.
Some of the current suspension suppliers might have them.
Poly bushings can be trimmed in a lathe.
It is a pain to do and some what of an approximation on size.
Sanding might also be an option.
Chevrolet specs the rear suspension ride height by measuring the difference in height between the inner and outer camber strut rod bolts. IIRC, about 2" for the street, about 1 1/4" for racing.
Net net, you want the half shafts to be horizontal or nearly so.
on the old 360 spring they were level, but on the 500 spring there on a diagonal, going downwards from diff to wheels
My vb&p 520 # use 6 inch bolts. My half shafts have a down angle to the wheels. I ground my fender flares with my 12x28 road racing slicks with the half shafts nearly level
As to the smart struts rods I have the lowest center position
My vb&p 520 # use 6 inch bolts. My half shafts have a down angle to the wheels. I ground my fender flares with my 12x28 road racing slicks with the half shafts nearly level
As to the smart struts rods I have the lowest center position
ok good info, have you got some pics of your rear wheel and arch height?
see what the gap is, do have a measurement of the gap between the top of wheel to outside edge of fender?
also how much of an arc does your 520 spring have?, my 500 got a really big arc, but the 420, is near enough flat, so what gives here, why???
Last edited by corvettedave383; Jan 20, 2017 at 01:39 PM.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
A couple of things worth mentioning in mind here...
FYI, due to the C2/C3 IRS' inherent geometry, the further below level the half-shafts travel due to the point from which on the rear toe-steer curve your static ride height has the suspension operating, the more counter toe-in may be necessary to avoid rear dynamic alignment moving into toe-out during bump/squat. Also, please be aware that the higher is your rear spring rate (relative to all else being equal), the nearer to the oversteer end of the scale will be your car's balance characteristic. My $.02
FYI, due to the C2/C3 IRS' inherent geometry, the further below level the half-shafts travel due to the point from which on the rear toe-steer curve your static ride height has the suspension operating, the more counter toe-in may be necessary to avoid rear dynamic alignment moving into toe-out during bump/squat. Also, please be aware that the higher is your rear spring rate (relative to all else being equal), the nearer to the oversteer end of the scale will be your car's balance characteristic. My $.02
TSW
thats great info, but can you break that down into something alittle simplier ? so is it bad having longer bolts or ?
ok good info, have you got some pics of your rear wheel and arch height?
see what the gap is, do have a measurement of the gap between the top of wheel to outside edge of fender?
also how much of an arc does your 520 spring have?, my 500 got a really big arc, but the 420, is near enough flat, so what gives here, why???
I have 2.5 inches of tire to wheel well clearance. I have 335 30 series 17X12 wheels. I think that they are about 26 inches diameter. My slicks are 28X12 inches
My 420# had more arch than the 520# So I used 7 inch bolts for the 420 and now 6 inch bolts for the 520
Old picture before my flares, the rear of the car is jacket up showing how big the slicks are. I had 6 rear slicks back then getting ready for a race weekend
9 inch long bolts would just mean that you might have 1-2 inches of thread hanging down below the nut.
My bolts have non threaded shafts. So you have to buy them at nearly the correct length. My 7 inch bolts did not have enough thread to crank up the rear of my car to keep the tires out of contact with the body.
my 26 inch tall tires 2.5 inches clearance. and my 28 inch tall slicks have about 1.5 clearance without tightening the bolts
On 4 corner scales my total weight was right on 3000 lbs. About 630 lbs on each front and 870 lbs each rear. I can crank up or down each corner to jack the weight around.
To compress a 520# spring an additional 1.5 inches is 780 lbs. When you hit the inside rumble strips going around a track you can see cars actual only on the two outer wheels. With the inner tires airborne. After scraping my tires on nearly every turn I cranked up the rear to be safe at nearly 2 inches.
For just street tires I should lower my front and rear to keep the correct body nose down rake. I just never took my car back to the shop to do the 4 corner adjustment on scales.