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Transmission rebuild or replace recommendation (1982 Corvette).

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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 04:22 AM
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Default Transmission rebuild or replace recommendation (1982 Corvette).

I am undecided if I should rebuild this transmission or replace it with a later year 700R4. I understand that the 700R4 in the early years has had problems. This tranny has a huge leak at the input seal. The clutches also slipped a bit due to the leak. The transmission always shifted great as long as the fluid level was topped off. She would leak heavily while parked.
A couple of months ago I changed out the fluid and still the transmission pan has clutch material. The input shaft is the older 27 spline variety vs the newer 30 spline.
So would you rebuild this original transmission or would you replace it with a 1987 or later year?







Last edited by usmilret; Jan 21, 2017 at 04:36 AM.
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 09:00 AM
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I would rebuild the old one . I thought it was a 400 should of looked closer.

Pete

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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 09:48 AM
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The 82 corvette was the first year of the 700r4.... It is concidered a very weak trans. ... If you are planning on any kind of drag racing, I would replace with a 87 or newer... Good luck..
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 10:01 AM
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Hey Usmilret, most trans shops can rebuild your early 700r4 with the later upgrade parts. In fact, be sure to ask for them so they dont just order/install a straight GM rebuild kit. Now if you are keeping it 100% stock and not racing it, even the normal GM kit will be good for many yrs of cruising. Just look how long your original weak trans lasted.

Advice from another usmilret here in ohio

Last edited by Fast81; Jan 21, 2017 at 10:01 AM.
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 11:39 AM
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The 700R4 in 82 was not noted to be anything close to a turbo400 or 350. With that said, I rebuilt mine about 21 years ago and was actually still good even with a 383 in front of it for about 6 years. I did however rebuild it again not long ago (around 1 year ago) and did all the upgrades including the 30 spline input shaft and is about as close to bulletproof as a early 700 gets right now. There is only one other option I would want to do which has to do with the rpm drop between 1st and 2nd, but would require it coming completely back apart, but a worth while mod if I was to race it a lot. It works great now and will probably last another 20+ years. I also went with a 9.5" 3,200 stall Yank TC this time which works great with my gear change done.

If you are not going to really drag race the car, I would just do a standard rebuild and maybe just do a clutch pack upgrade and maybe planetary. Make sure the person that does the rebuild knows 700's and knows how to adjust the TV cable properly. If done wrong, you will burn up the trans in short order. Good luck.

Last edited by Buccaneer; Jan 21, 2017 at 11:42 AM.
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 11:46 AM
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Well ya got it out now. Ya not gonna put it back in as is. 700R4 is available everywhere and not much more for a Hi-Po trans. Let's look at BowTie Overdrive's. $1250 for entry level and $2000 buys you their best 700R4. For me to decide I would just take a look at the bank account and spend what I could afford. Can't speak for you though. It's your car and money.
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 02:30 PM
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I don't plan on racing the car too much. Thanks for the replies.
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 06:03 PM
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If you don't need the same unit back after rebuild, just go to a transmission rebuild outfit and see what they would do on a swap trade for yours. They can rebuild an early unit with later version parts which will eliminate the shortcomings of the first year 700-R4's.

The sump on yours looks "normal"; just some black goo that is clutch plate 'dust' and oil...I don't see any 'bright' metal flecks or pieces . If you rebuild YOUR unit, be sure to install a new torque converter (stock configuration) with lockup clutch. Doing it either way would work fine [rebuild or swap-out].
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
If you don't need the same unit back after rebuild, just go to a transmission rebuild outfit and see what they would do on a swap trade for yours. They can rebuild an early unit with later version parts which will eliminate the shortcomings of the first year 700-R4's.

The sump on yours looks "normal"; just some black goo that is clutch plate 'dust' and oil...I don't see any 'bright' metal flecks or pieces . If you rebuild YOUR unit, be sure to install a new torque converter (stock configuration) with lockup clutch. Doing it either way would work fine [rebuild or swap-out].
You are right, there are no metal flakes and to be honest I might be jumping the gun on a rebuild but since I have it out I won't be satisfied with a simple input seal. I could replace it and put the transmission right back in.

I might want to check into another transmission from a rebuilder. The car really isn't that special and who cares if it is numbers matching. Just a thought.
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by usmilret
You are right, there are no metal flakes and to be honest I might be jumping the gun on a rebuild but since I have it out I won't be satisfied with a simple input seal. I could replace it and put the transmission right back in.

I might want to check into another transmission from a rebuilder. The car really isn't that special and who cares if it is numbers matching. Just a thought.
Get an 87 or later truck 700R4. Beefier. Save the old one for posterity. I truely believe when plastic bumper cars come of age, there won't be one matching numbers car left.
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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 04:33 PM
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Bigbird they're 40 years old now and I saw one for 2500 in fixable condition. I've given up on collector status and I'm driving the hell out of mine. I think the core is only $300 bucks so saving it won't cost much but I agree on the rebuilt unit.
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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 77Driver
Bigbird they're 40 years old now and I saw one for 2500 in fixable condition. I've given up on collector status and I'm driving the hell out of mine. I think the core is only $300 bucks so saving it won't cost much but I agree on the rebuilt unit.
My last advice. Find a good local guy. Someone who stands behind their work. It took me three trips to change weights and springs on the governor to get the shifts where I wanted them. No charge.
20K miles, and it's still shifts crisp and is clean inside. An aux. cooler is a must if you want longevity. $100 will get you the parts. Cheap insurance.

My local guy says he rebuilds BTO units all the time. They use crap parts.

One of his guys used to work at Art Carr. They're quality isn't what it used to be.
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 04:07 AM
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Presently I am considering rebuilding this transmission on my own. One of the major reasons why is the upgraded parts that I am pretty sure that I will need. I am still in a fog as to what I will actually need as far as upgraded parts.
I know that the 3/4 clutches have been slipping however this was due to the transmission oil leaking from the input seal. I also know that these 3/4 clutches tend to go out on the earlier models of the 700R4.
While I am presently bringing this car back up to speed I want to keep this original transmission. I will explain that I am a mechanic by trade I am not a Corvette mechanic. I have most of the special tools needed to conduct this rebuild.
Its been somewhat been a journey so far.
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 09:26 AM
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Find a few good rebuild books for rebuilding the 700r4, and go for it.... I rebuilt a th400 a few years ago, was very easy with a good manual.... Good luck...
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 03:33 PM
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A good rebuild shop will have all 'needed' upgrades included with a normal build. If you want a stronger unit (because of engine upgrades), they can do that too.

Don't try to reinvent the wheel; take advantage of what is readily available. If you don't do this for a living, let those who do "help" you. If you want to DIY, find a trans parts wholesaler (they supply all the stuff to the rebuild shops) and let them gather the stuff you will need. That's what they do for the shops! There will be no "guesswork" on what is included in the rebuild.
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 07:34 PM
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With a good repair manual, there will be no guess work. You're a mechanic, it's what you do!
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Buccaneer
If you are not going to really drag race the car, I would just do a standard rebuild and maybe just do a clutch pack upgrade and maybe planetary.
My .02 is to keep it simple. If it is a driver, rebuild what you have with better parts. That way you know it will be hassle free.
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 03:45 AM
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Yep I am going to rebuild this transmission. I want this transmission to stay with the car. A gentleman on this forum was kind enough to recommend wholesalers, books on Amazom to get.
Corvetteforum is an amazing forum to say the least. I would have never known what I know now. I would have taken this transmission to joebob the rebuilder. I need to install the upgraded parts that I am almost sure would have never been used.

Edited for update:
I cannot locate the ATSG Manual for the 1982 700R4, I need this specific manual and if anyone knows where I can locate this manual (not CD), please let me know.

Update: I can only locate one ATSG manual, seller wants $168.00. I will not buy it.

Last edited by usmilret; Jan 26, 2017 at 03:55 AM. Reason: added update
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 03:56 AM
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A good rebuild shop will have all 'needed' upgrades included with a normal build. If you want a stronger unit (because of engine upgrades), they can do that too.
I got this car with an unknown history. Ran a camera down the spark plug hole and noticed that the engine had been bored .30 over, I checked the image again.
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