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I am going to go from red to black on my interior. My car was originally a green interior and I suspect many of the parts have multiple paint coats on them. What is the best way to strip color off everything? Would also like to know the best painting process. I gather from search that the SEM products work the best.
Hi 69,
How you proceed will depend a bit on just which parts you're going to be coloring.
For instance the seats?, dash pads?, consoles? door panels?
The proper preparation is vital when using the SEM product for there to be good results.
Member 7T1vette has experience using the dye and will likely see your post and offer his thoughts!
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
The way to proceed depends on what recoloring product was used to change the interior's color. If it was a good quality vinyl dye (a paint with a flex additive), or if it was just regular paint.
You can put good vinyl dye over anything. If you put it on top of vinyl dye, it will bond well and probably not fill in the surface graining on the parts. But, if you put it on top of paint, the new dye will only hold as well as the paint below it. Paint can chip, peel, etc.; vinyl dye (properly bonded to the surface) will not.
If the existing recolor product has been there for years and shows no signs of peeling, chipping, etc, chances are the product was well chosen. If you see chipping/peeling, the product is likely a paint...without a flex agent added to it.
Painted plastic parts are difficult to deal with, as whatever you use to remove the paint will likely damage the parts!
You will have to be the judge of the interior's present condition and which direction you need to go. Whatever your situation, I would encourage you to procure good quality vinyl dye from a reputable supplier of paint products to auto body shops--a professional store, not a chain auto parts store.
The most critical step to a good interior recolor is to get the parts squeaky clean before applying the vinyl dye. Dirt, oil, body oils, grease need to be dissolved and removed; detergent or good environmentally friendly cleaners should be used to remove all contaminants. Parts should be flushed thoroughly with fresh water so no residue remains. Let dry completely and the parts should be ready to shoot.
The original owner of my "73 changed the interior color from sable to black over ten years ago. I'm not sure what he used, but you can not tell it was ever anything other than black. Good luck and I hope it turns out well.
Thanks guys. Everything but the console was painted with interior paint from Corvette America. I am sure it was not a dye. The console is a new replacement which came red. So it appears I am not to try to strip any paint off any of these items. Maybe a wipe with lacquer thinner?
Lacquer thinner will MELT vinyl...not a good idea. As I indicated, if the 'paint' that is on your parts is holding up well, you should just put vinyl dye over it. I've heard of folks trying to strip off paint from interior parts and it is very difficult...at best. Usually, there is some surface damage to the parts.
If the part is solid plastic, you may be able to use Citri-Strip on it with some success. That product won't damage plastic.
If you can still see the surface graining in your parts, the C.A. product may have been the "dye" they sell in spray cans. I'm not partial to it, but it is better than 'paint', as it does have a flex additive in it.
My favorite is SEM dye that is in liquid form, purchased from a pro auto body paint supplier, and mixed to a desired GM interior color code or to match an existing piece. Spray with your equipment or purchase a $10 Pre-Val gas/bottle sprayer from that store also; it does VERY well with the thinner vinyl dye. You almost can't make a mistake with that stuff. Runs/drips will disappear after drying.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
SEM is a good product to use for interiors and you can have custom colors mixed if you go to a good automotive paint store. I have used SEM several times for my 82 interior to respray some of the parts. It is very durable. I use one of my small touch-up guns to spray it on or you can use an airbrush for finer work.
The key like mentioned is in the preparation. You can use any prep-sol type of automotive wax remover/cleaner without hurting the plastic, ask at the paint counter what they recommend for a plastic prep cleaner. Do not use any harsh solvents. Also, a good idea to use is an adhesion promoter like BullyDog after cleaning and before painting. Works great or I have also used 3M adhesion promoter, either one is ok. Good luck with your project.
I've never used an adhesion promoter...primarily because I've only shot bare [plastic] interior parts. But, if you are going to be shooting over some 'unknown' product coating, using the adhesion promoter might be a "do good" activity. Probably won't add much cost; pretty good 'insurance' to assure success.