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car pulls left with brakes

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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 06:03 PM
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Default car pulls left with brakes

I've done a search and talked to mechanics, but wanted to get some input here. Like the title says, my 79 pulls left when I hit the brakes. The harder I brake, the further left it pulls. Doesn't that typically indicate a problem with the right front brakes? So far, I've replaced both front brake hoses, thinking I'd start with what was cheap. I'm thinking next might be a new right front caliper. Anyone else have any ideas on other things I might check?
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 06:44 PM
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Check the calipers. The right may be frozen or the left may be leaking, that'll make it grab harder if fluid is on the pads.
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 06:50 PM
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No fluid on the calipers, should have said that from the start, but forgot to mention it. How do you tell if a caliper is frozen?
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 06:53 PM
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Take it off and try to push the Pistons in.
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 07:11 PM
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got it. I'll pull the caliper this weekend and have a look. Thanks! Don't know why I didn't think of that. DOH!
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 07:20 PM
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'bashcraft' gave great advice...but here is more to think about or try.

Raise the front end and spin each wheel and see how it reacts with no one pressing on the pedal.

When did you try to bleed the brakes BEFORE you replaced the hoses?? Reason is ..if you did...how did the brake fluid come out when you did bleed them in regards to fluid stream and did you have any air at that time also.

Keep in mind before I take off the calipers..I will attach my pressure bleeder and force fluid through the system under pressure and see how the fluid flows out of the steel lines at the frame and see if they flow the same when I detach the rubber hose from these steel lines...and I do on at a time.. If they don't flow the same amount of fluid in a certain amount of time I have chosen. Then there can be crap in the proportioning valve or that steel line.

If they flow the same...then I take the new rubber hoses and lay them flat for a while out in the sun and then install them. I never take them out of a box where they have been bent during packaging and just put them right on the car.

Then when I pressure bleed out the calipers...I see if the fluid stream is consistent at each caliper. I will previously verify that the bleeder is flowing freely and clean due to I have removed it....checked it and re-installed it.

I then also check the wheel bearing for play...just to be on the safe side...and even might check the rotor run-out....but in this case this may not be needed....but I do it anyway just to be on the safe side.

If none of that works..then I will remove the calipers and give them a good 'look-see'.

DUB
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by C3 4ME
No fluid on the calipers, should have said that from the start, but forgot to mention it. How do you tell if a caliper is frozen?
an easy check is to raise up the front until both tires are clear. Have a helper step on the brake. Try to rotate the tires by hand.
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 07:42 PM
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DUB, as always, your advice is much appreciated. You sir are a great asset to this forum. I did not bleed anything before replacing the brake hoses, but I do recall that when I bled the brakes at the calipers, the fluid stream seemed to flow pretty much the same on either side. I did not let the hoses sit out in the sun, but they were not in a box so therefore were not packaged bent. They were perfectly straight. Funny you should mention the wheel bearings, I did redo those as well while I was in there. As I said above, I think I will try Bashcraft's suggestion and remove the caliper to see what I find. Thank you to all who have replied!
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 09:02 PM
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Had the same problem. It was a bad brake line hose. They get old and start to collapse.
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 11:07 PM
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GREAT ADVICE FROM DUB.

Just a thought - I would check the brake line to see if it got crushed when you were working on the car.
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Old Feb 24, 2017 | 07:08 AM
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I would guess a caliper/hose/bleed issue as well BUT if you have any worn front suspension components such as ball joints, tie rods, control arm bushings, idler arm etc as well the car could pull under braking. Just something else to consider....

Last edited by jb78L-82; Feb 24, 2017 at 07:09 AM.
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Old Feb 24, 2017 | 10:48 AM
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I also had a pull to the side when braking with my 80. The front brakes turned out to be fine, it was a rear brake hose that was causing the pulling. I replaced the hose, bleed the system and no more pulling.
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Old Feb 24, 2017 | 11:44 AM
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did anybody check the control arm bushings and ball joints, I would think if something is shifting it could also cause a pull
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Old Feb 24, 2017 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by C3 4ME
DUB, as always, your advice is much appreciated. You sir are a great asset to this forum. I did not bleed anything before replacing the brake hoses, but I do recall that when I bled the brakes at the calipers, the fluid stream seemed to flow pretty much the same on either side. I did not let the hoses sit out in the sun, but they were not in a box so therefore were not packaged bent. They were perfectly straight. Funny you should mention the wheel bearings, I did redo those as well while I was in there. As I said above, I think I will try Bashcraft's suggestion and remove the caliper to see what I find. Thank you to all who have replied!
JUST BE CAREFUL!!!!! Pushing in on the pistons can cause for a problem. Seeing how no one here has a crystal ball and can see into the bores of your caliper. Pushing the piston all the way in will cause for the seal to go back into an area that MAY be contaminated....and thus...possibly can cause for a seal to leak. And I do not give a hoot if the calipers are lipped seals design or O-ring design. They both can fail and do fail.

And I have lost count on the number of calipers that I had to replace due to when old worn out brake pads were being replaced ....and the brake fluid has been neglected and was nasty as all get out. When I installed the new pads that caused the pistons to now be pushed back in a the bore that obviously was worn due to sediment/sludge build up in the caliper bore....when the new pads went in the caliper leaked like a stuck pig (sometimes)...but when I put the old pads back in ..the leak stopped completely or somewhat. And it does not matter if it is a lipped seal design or O-ring...they both can do it.

DUB
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Old Feb 24, 2017 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
did anybody check the control arm bushings and ball joints, I would think if something is shifting it could also cause a pull
Yes, all front end components were thoroughly checked by a pro who does alignments and suspension work for a living, (and has been doing so since before my 79 was new). All suspension components were given a
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Old Feb 24, 2017 | 07:16 PM
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[QUOTE=BlackC3vette;1594164653]I also had a pull to the side when braking with my 80. The front brakes turned out to be fine, it was a rear brake hose that was causing the pulling. I replaced the hose, bleed the system and no more pulling. [/QUOTE
How did you determine the hose was bad? was is leaking? As I said, I replaced the front 2 because it was cheap enough that I didn't mind taking a shot in the dark to see if it worked.
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Old Feb 24, 2017 | 08:13 PM
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[QUOTE=C3 4ME;1594168320]
Originally Posted by BlackC3vette
I also had a pull to the side when braking with my 80. The front brakes turned out to be fine, it was a rear brake hose that was causing the pulling. I replaced the hose, bleed the system and no more pulling. [/QUOTE
How did you determine the hose was bad? was is leaking? As I said, I replaced the front 2 because it was cheap enough that I didn't mind taking a shot in the dark to see if it worked.
No, the hose wasn't leaking. Hoses don't have to be leaking or swollen up in size to be bad, they can have internal damage/break down that really doesn't show. But, the existing hoses were old/ dried rubber. I jacked the rear up and had my son apply slight pressure on the brake pedal. The right rear locked up right away, the right rear turned still turned slightly. Also, bleeding the system, I was having trouble getting fluid out of the caliper. So, I replaced the hose and right away I was able to bleed the caliper with a good fluid flow. I am not saying that yours has a problem, this is just what I went through trying to figure out why there was a pull to the left when braking (after the front was checked out).
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Old Feb 26, 2017 | 12:41 PM
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Ok, had my wife hold the brake while i tried to spin the wheels with the car on stands. I found no difference in the effort to turn any of the wheels. was hoping one wheel would turn while the other 3 were locked. No such luck. I guess I'll pull the RF caliper now and see what I can find.
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Old Feb 26, 2017 | 01:38 PM
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Mine pulled like that a little, everything checked out, very long story short....The power steering balance valve was slightly unbalanced, it really didn't show up until you were on the brake. Just something to keep in the back of your mind.
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Old Feb 26, 2017 | 08:39 PM
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I used a rubber mallet to dislodge any air bubbles in the calipers while bleeding.
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