EFI Controlled Distributor
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Plano TX
http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf
Page 20 has the wiring diagram that is closest to your setup. In your case the crank signals comes from the distributor, so ignore the crank trigger. The CDI and coil part applies to you.
Page 20 has the wiring diagram that is closest to your setup. In your case the crank signals comes from the distributor, so ignore the crank trigger. The CDI and coil part applies to you.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,360
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From: Plano TX
I don't really see the point in you using the dual sync though. It provides a cam sync which allows port injection systems to run the injectors sequentially. But you have throttle body injection so you can't use sequential mode anyway. I'd recommend a regular 8-pin small cap HEI distributor instead. It plugs right in to the holley system, and you don't need a CDI box as the HEI module drives the coil.
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I don't really see the point in you using the dual sync though. It provides a cam sync which allows port injection systems to run the injectors sequentially. But you have throttle body injection so you can't use sequential mode anyway. I'd recommend a regular 8-pin small cap HEI distributor instead. It plugs right in to the holley system, and you don't need a CDI box as the HEI module drives the coil.
I really only wanted it because of the timing advance and that it was supposed to plug and play with my ECU which it is but nothing else about it is. I'm probably stuck with it now so I gotta make it work.
Last edited by greghennings; Mar 18, 2017 at 06:33 PM.
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Two other things, I should remember that the ECU for my terminator setup is a hp ECU so if I follow the manual you posted zwede I should be fine right?
Also I remember now the retail price for Holley's distributor is $429, and I wasnt going to pay that but summit had a sale going the week of Christmas and I picked it up for $386. So that's another why I bought it.
Also I remember now the retail price for Holley's distributor is $429, and I wasnt going to pay that but summit had a sale going the week of Christmas and I picked it up for $386. So that's another why I bought it.
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Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Plano TX
Terminator manual p.14:
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...10-550-405.pdf
I think you misread the warning (bolding mine):
If you currently have the yellow wire connected to the coil, you must disconnect it when you add the CDI. You will use the crank trigger input instead of the yellow wire (yellow wire will be unused).
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...10-550-405.pdf
Points Output – Color = White – Used for ignition configurations that must be configured with a laptop computer. See pages 13-21 in
the Holley EFI Wiring Manual, located at http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf or go to www.holley.com, click on
SUPPORT, then TECH SERVICE, scroll down and click Resource Documents & Library. Go to the Fuel Injection tab and scroll down to
the Holley EFI Wiring Manual.
the Holley EFI Wiring Manual, located at http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf or go to www.holley.com, click on
SUPPORT, then TECH SERVICE, scroll down and click Resource Documents & Library. Go to the Fuel Injection tab and scroll down to
the Holley EFI Wiring Manual.
and my terminator manual says to never, never connect any of the ECU wires to the cdi box.
CAUTION! NEVER, NEVER connect any of the EFI wires to the coil on any CD type ignition system. The ECU will be permanently
damaged!
damaged!
Last edited by zwede; Mar 18, 2017 at 08:05 PM.
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Ah yeah, now that's all making sense 
. I definitely read that line wrong, this sounds good now. I'll get that CD box ordered up, should have it by wednesday, zwede where did you put your? i'm starting to run out of real-estate under my hood. I'm thinking behind/next to the power brake booster there's a nice cubby but i've already got a vacuum reservoir jammed in there, i could re-route that with less complications...
. I definitely read that line wrong, this sounds good now. I'll get that CD box ordered up, should have it by wednesday, zwede where did you put your? i'm starting to run out of real-estate under my hood. I'm thinking behind/next to the power brake booster there's a nice cubby but i've already got a vacuum reservoir jammed in there, i could re-route that with less complications...
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,360
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From: Plano TX
I put it on the passenger side wheel well, underneath the coolant tank. Pretty good access to that area with the gill removed.
A tip is to twist the wires going from the CDI to the coil. Drastically cuts down on interference (it cancels out the EMI). And you need a good power feed to the CDI, I took mine off the starter. The ground can go to the frame or engine, doesn't matter.
A tip is to twist the wires going from the CDI to the coil. Drastically cuts down on interference (it cancels out the EMI). And you need a good power feed to the CDI, I took mine off the starter. The ground can go to the frame or engine, doesn't matter.
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Well i got it going finally. I got my Summit Racing CDi box, my ECU is already occupying my passenger wheel well, so i ended up removing my washer fluid reservoir and mounting the cd box to the fiberglass/firewall underneath the power brake booster. Worked perfectly! Its perfectly flat and you can get your arm down behind it and use the rubber stands and nuts. Wiring was no problem, only difficulty was getting to the starter positive terminal, i had to add on to the wire but no problem. Fired right up.
I've got a little tweaking to do, right now it run ok. But it'll stall if i rev it up and let off the gas right away. Or like when i start it it'll high idle and then low idle and die. I can keeping running with just a little throttle.
I think i need to adjust the inductive delay. The manual say to use "enable static timing" in the software, which i did. It comes up "set timing value" Well the manual doesn't say what to set it at or what to do with it. How do i use this? Or should i just use my timing light and check it versus what my monitor says it is and adjust the inductive delay that way?
I've got a little tweaking to do, right now it run ok. But it'll stall if i rev it up and let off the gas right away. Or like when i start it it'll high idle and then low idle and die. I can keeping running with just a little throttle.
I think i need to adjust the inductive delay. The manual say to use "enable static timing" in the software, which i did. It comes up "set timing value" Well the manual doesn't say what to set it at or what to do with it. How do i use this? Or should i just use my timing light and check it versus what my monitor says it is and adjust the inductive delay that way?
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Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,360
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From: Plano TX
ECU and CDI should not use any power with ignition off so no need for a battery disconnect.
To adjust the inductive delay you enable static timing as you found. The value you put in is what the advance will be while you do the test so you need to pick something that works for idle as well as reving it in neutral. 25 degrees is what I use. Then take a timing light to it and adjust so you have 25 degrees at idle. Next rev it to 3000 rpm and check again. If it's still 25 dgrs you're done. If it is not you adjust the inductive delay until it reads the same at idle and 3000 rpm. Finally disable static timing so everything is back to normal.
To adjust the inductive delay you enable static timing as you found. The value you put in is what the advance will be while you do the test so you need to pick something that works for idle as well as reving it in neutral. 25 degrees is what I use. Then take a timing light to it and adjust so you have 25 degrees at idle. Next rev it to 3000 rpm and check again. If it's still 25 dgrs you're done. If it is not you adjust the inductive delay until it reads the same at idle and 3000 rpm. Finally disable static timing so everything is back to normal.
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ok that cleared up for me. i got that done. that's a really neat trick, i set it for 25 deg. it holds that 25 degs just solid all the way to 3000 rpm. I didn't have to adjust the inductive delay at all. So now, i've still got a bit of a stalling problem around idle. It will kill it i put in gear without a little throttle. Any ideas? I know some of you guys mentioned about the cdi boxes are better at high rpms then low rpms could that be the trouble? if so is there a way to compensate for that? the car before ran like a dream, i hate to go backwards in performance.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,360
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From: Plano TX
What's your timing map like? It needs to be stable around idle. You should have the same advance in neutral and in drive. What idle timing did you have before and what do you have now?
Last edited by zwede; Mar 25, 2017 at 09:20 PM.
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Oops, forgot to post from Sunday. Took the car out and filled it up with some fresh gas and put 20 miles on or so and it runs better. I think I gotta get a little more time on the road and it'll be fine. I'd say case closed.
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From: Athens GA
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FYI.....the reason Holley recommends MSD is because they now own MSD.
Was just talking with a friend last weekend about MSD and he told me the horror story he had awhile back.
He changed everything over to Dakota Sensors.......
Changed the distributor to match the box. Has programmable rev limiter.
http://www.racingjunk.com/Ignition-S...on-System.html
Was just talking with a friend last weekend about MSD and he told me the horror story he had awhile back.
He changed everything over to Dakota Sensors.......
Changed the distributor to match the box. Has programmable rev limiter.
http://www.racingjunk.com/Ignition-S...on-System.html