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Thermostat recommendation

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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 06:43 PM
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Default Thermostat recommendation

Would like some advice. I have a 79 w/383 Stroker. I am running a stock 195 degree thermostat. Should I run a cooler one (160 or 185) or will the 195 be ok?
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 06:54 PM
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Depending on where you live 160 or 180
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 7t9l82
Depending on where you live 160 or 180
Live in Kansas. It can get pretty warm.
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 07:45 PM
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It depends on what you have done to your engine and how much of the emissions equipment is still on the car?

Emissions like it hotter and too cool may make your engine run wonky.

Me? I'd go absolutely no lower than the 180 and that is pushing it a bit.
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 07:51 PM
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You'll be fine with a 180*.
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 07:52 PM
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Thanks. No emissions. I'll get a 180
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 08:15 PM
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I would run the 195*, all a t-stat does is get you up to operating temperature and you need temp to burn off moisture
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 09:24 PM
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I'd run a 180 in Kansas . I run a 160 in florida.I'd like to see evidence that moisture doesn't evaporate at that water temprature.water and oil temprature are not the same.chevrolet recomended 160 degree thermostat in some applications before the emissions regulations took hold.the length of time an engine is run will have as much to do with the dreaded moisture removal than a 220 degree thermostat will. Frigid temprature areas like minnesota in the winter alot of cars never get to operating temprature.trace amounts of moisture are not a death sentance to an engine.
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by redvetracr
...I would run the 195*...
So would I.
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 07:31 AM
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180* is a good compromise.
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by redvetracr
I would run the 195*, all a t-stat does is get you up to operating temperature and you need temp to burn off moisture
I use the high flow Stant tstats. From summit racing

You want to get the motor up to operating temperature as fast as possible. Then you want to have the engine in its thermally efficient range. Cold 160 is bad for mpg. 180 might make minor more hp. 205 to 212 is the best choice for hp and thermal efficiency
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 05:08 PM
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A 180*F stat is what that engine was designed to have....until EPA decreed the reduction of emissions. There is NO BENEFIT to running a stat higher than 180*F, if you do not care about the emissions stuff. {Not that I would do such a thing, of course. }
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 08:26 PM
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Best all around for good oil and water temps is 180
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 08:49 PM
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A colder combustion chamber saps heat from combustion. Less heat, less power.
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 08:54 PM
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I vote 180,

If a 4 pas AL oversize radiator then a 190.
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 10:18 AM
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you do not mention location, which I think is important,
do you want or need good heat ? depends upon your location.
Texas - 160 ..... Alaska - 195

Interesting Article,
Engine WATER TEMPERATURE affects oil pressure and oil temperature, so it's quite logical that an accurate water temperature gauge is likewise an absolute necessity. As water temperature increases, oil pressure drops and oil temperature rises. Smart racers use auxiliary engine oil coolers. In fact, many aluminum race radiators have built-in engine oil coolers.

Ideal water temperature varies, depending upon the engine and the type of racing performed. Past experience and/or dyno testing help determine ideal water temperature range for a particular setup. Dyno tests on a small block Chevy, for example, show that this engine performs at maximum horsepower between 200-220°.

Drag racers pre-heat their cars in the pits to warm not only the engine, but the transmission and rear end as well. Quickly pouring water through the cooling system just prior to entering the staging lanes will significantly back down the temperature of the intake manifold, while engine oil and transmission fluid remain warm. Circle track racers also pre-heat engines to around 190° prior to qualifying, and they may also block the air inlet with racer's tape to build additional heat in the engine. The water temperature may rise to around 210° during actual qualifying.

Last edited by 69Vett; Mar 6, 2017 at 10:25 AM.
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ks114
Live in Kansas. It can get pretty warm.
I'm in KCMO.

Using a 180* t-stat in my 383
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by redvetracr
I would run the 195*, all a t-stat does is get you up to operating temperature and you need temp to burn off moisture
and couldn't agree more. I've heard all kinds of stories and myths, and there all just that, nothing more. If you have any kind of an overheating issue with your engine, and you're running a lower range on the t-stat, it is very possible for the engine to overheat.


If you run a 195* t-stat, it will open, allow fluid exchange as it's supposed to, then close and stay closed longer, allowing the coolant to remain in the radiator longer and cool.


I live in the desert, a brand new big block, and I have a 195 t-stat and never get over 195*.
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 02:19 PM
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[QUOTE=69Vett;1594237015]you do not mention location, which I think is important,
do you want or need good heat ? depends upon your location.
Texas - 160 ..... Alaska - 195

[QUOTE]
Are you implying that an engine should run at different temps in different locals? I'm not trying to degrade your response, I've never heard such a thing. An engine runs at optimum temp, no matter locale.


Could you expand on that ^^^^^ theory, please?

Last edited by USAFVeteran; Mar 9, 2017 at 02:19 PM.
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 12:33 AM
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The T-stat does NOT set the engine and cooling system's operating temperature...unless that system has been over-engineered after the fact. Stat temp only determines the MINIMUM operating temperature of the engine as it warms up. The system will likely continue heating a bit (10-20*F higher) until it completely stabilizes. So, installing a cooler stat only delays the time it takes to reach final stabilized temps.
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