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This is now a thread that stemmed from a thread that stemmed from a thread. I was checking timing on the 1978 Vette and some idiot came out during rev up and started distracting me. Within seconds the cables from the timing light came loose and created fireworks. In under 10 seconds I cut the car power and was shocked to see it not try to crank. I figured the expensive light is gone but the car being dead was a real shock. To reiterate the firework show came from the alternator and timing light. Now the interior and engine compartment is dead. No current from Alt, no interior lights. Only headlights work. I have looked at 2 fusible links at starter and they still look new (I just bought the Lecric Limited "Starter Extension" harness). I do not see any links after the alternator.
Any Ideas...Again...please?
This is now a thread that stemmed from a thread that stemmed from a thread. I was checking timing on the 1978 Vette and some idiot came out during rev up and started distracting me. Within seconds the cables from the timing light came loose and created fireworks. In under 10 seconds I cut the car power and was shocked to see it not try to crank. I figured the expensive light is gone but the car being dead was a real shock. To reiterate the firework show came from the alternator and timing light. Now the interior and engine compartment is dead. No current from Alt, no interior lights. Only headlights work. I have looked at 2 fusible links at starter and they still look new (I just bought the Lecric Limited "Starter Extension" harness). I do not see any links after the alternator.
I forgot to mention of course I checked fuses under dash...These Fuseboxes might as well not exist.
Any Ideas...Again...please?
Power on the starter 12 ish V however not any power near dash on the red or black. Was just on phone with another member and told him both the fusible links look solid. How does one check or remove these links?
Power on the starter 12 ish V however not any power near dash on the red or black. Was just on phone with another member and told him both the fusible links look solid. How does one check or remove these links?
And where if any is the link between alternator and starter. All I see is the 2 black links and they are solid and seem to be one with each wire.
Hey guys i talked to fang on the tele,
The timing light hot clip was on the alt batt term and shorted to the alt case and fried a wire or melted a link, i have no clue where the links are on his 78 or best way to explain how to test them, some of his wiring is aftermarket, he does have a meter no test light, and is basically novice on it....thanks and lets get his car going...
Last edited by The13Bats; Mar 12, 2017 at 08:30 PM.
From the starter, work your way up.. Check at the connector at the starter extension harness, then follow the trail. One step at a time. Meter on the DC volt scale, ground the black lead, and start probing with the red.
I was trying to figure out the picture...but I get it. Thanks. Yes there is no power that I can tell from that "Starter Extension" harness that runs from starter to Engine Harness I cannot tell if the Fuse link is f***ed or not. I have no idea how to deal with those. Its such a shame that I just bought that harness and it possibly may be fubar. If anyone has worked with these PLEASE tell me how to change em or diagnose them. (Black Fuse Links) they are just solid rubber like things stuck on there.
Last edited by Fang333333; Mar 13, 2017 at 12:23 AM.
Not sure about the 78, but 75 has a fusible link just under the brake booster area also.
Thanks 75. For the record I do not see a fuse link under the booster. 1978 would have been nice so that shorts like these don't fry the starter and other components...Even better...A FUSE BOX THAT ACTUALLY HOLDS ALL THE FUSES!!!!!!!!!!
Chevy probably saved 10 cents per car to have a useless fusebox and "Fuse Links" everywhere.
If any of the C3 designers/project Managers ever read this...SHAME ON YOU!!! You could have saved tons of time/money/stress/tears on your costumers had you just put every fuse in one simple spot. Don't even get me started on the vacume headlight disaster you got going on. The whole system is a major "Keep It Simple Stupid" violation. The more I dig in this car (8 months and counting of digging...mostly 12 hour days) the more shocked I am at how flimsy these designs are.
Thats my rant.
I just want to drive my car before I get surgery... Too much to ask? Yes.
Anyway thanks forum, If ya can tell me more about the fuse links, I appreciate it. Somewhere between starter and engine harness there is no power.
Thanks 75. For the record I do not see a fuse link under the booster. 1978 would have been nice so that shorts like these don't fry the starter and other components...Even better...A FUSE BOX THAT ACTUALLY HOLDS ALL THE FUSES!!!!!!!!!!
Chevy probably saved 10 cents per car to have a useless fusebox and "Fuse Links" everywhere.
If any of the C3 designers/project Managers ever read this...SHAME ON YOU!!! You could have saved tons of time/money/stress/tears on your costumers had you just put every fuse in one simple spot. Don't even get me started on the vacume headlight disaster you got going on. The whole system is a major "Keep It Simple Stupid" violation. The more I dig in this car (8 months and counting of digging...mostly 12 hour days) the more shocked I am at how flimsy these designs are.
Thats my rant.
I just want to drive my car before I get surgery... Too much to ask? Yes.
Anyway thanks forum, If ya can tell me more about the fuse links, I appreciate it. Somewhere between starter and engine harness there is no power.
Give the wires a good pull, if the fusible link is melted you'll feel it stretch the insulation, it should feel solid if the link is good.
Those fusible links are there to keep your car from burning down in the event that someone does something like you just did.
I know your working on a 78, hope this helps.
This drawing is for a late production 1977. Early production 77 had fuse link B under brake booster as member 75 described. Late model 77 moved both A&B fuse links to starter solenoid.
Fuse link A feeds your ignition switch and fuse block, fuse link B feeds your headlight switch. You say your headlights still work, this says current is still passing through fuse link B.
If it were me, I would disconnect the + cable from the battery, remove one fuse link, reconnect battery to identify fuse link A, leaving fuse link B unconnected.
If you have a needle type of probe for your meter, DC setting one lead to ground. You should get a reading on both sides of the (White or Black) capsule of wire of fuse link A. If you have the proper reading start working your way back testing at each connector until you reach the alternator.
Note: Where the page ends to the upper right the 2 #10 red wires go to the alternator.
Disconnect + cable again, reconnect fuse link B when your finished.
Hi F,
The 'fusible link' is the wire between the the 2 black rubber insulators.
The wire is of a smaller size so it fails rather than have the current pass on to the electrical component it's there to protect.
You can see the 'link' wire is smaller gauge than the larger red wire it 'protects'.
Regards,
Alan
These are from a 71…. might give you some help in locating the 'links' on your car.
I know your working on a 78, hope this helps.
This drawing is for a late production 1977. Early production 77 had fuse link B under brake booster as member 75 described. Late model 77 moved both A&B fuse links to starter solenoid.
Fuse link A feeds your ignition switch and fuse block, fuse link B feeds your headlight switch. You say your headlights still work, this says current is still passing through fuse link B.
If it were me, I would disconnect the + cable from the battery, remove one fuse link, reconnect battery to identify fuse link A, leaving fuse link B unconnected.
If you have a needle type of probe for your meter, DC setting one lead to ground. You should get a reading on both sides of the (White or Black) capsule of wire of fuse link A. If you have the proper reading start working your way back testing at each connector until you reach the alternator.
Note: Where the page ends to the upper right the 2 #10 red wires go to the alternator.
Disconnect + cable again, reconnect fuse link B when your finished.
Hey Joe,
Thanks could you tell me where you got this? I would love to buy and add to my personal collection
Signed,
Another Joe
Fried My Car
