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My early 6t8 had the holes in for a cotter pin even though there was no pin. As blue427 mentioned I didn't have the cotter pins in and went for a test, with in 10 miles they were gone. T
I considered doing that on my 68 then decided to do it with the original shims. It is very hard and time consuming but once done you know 100% the UN slotted shims aren't going anywhere.
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Bubba used the 69 and later slotted shims on my 68 and didn't use the cotter pin,, luckily I noticed before they fell completely out, it was a close call. I bought the correct 68 but after getting the shimming right with the 69 slots I didn't want to pull them apart and put in the correct ones so I drilled and wired the 69 slotted ones in. No problems all summer, 3000 miles later. Need to sell the 68s and the extra factory 69s i have
I've used the slotted shims in my 65 for 10 years and never lost one. If you are not aware midyears do not have the cotter pin hole in the frame. The shim pack should be tight enough the last shim has to be driven in. Then push the pack down into the trailing arm pocket and tighten the nut/bolt. Done. If you still have concerns one of the tricks some midyear guys do is use one double hole shim in each pack. That way one shim is secured through the bolt. Then use slotted shims to set the toe. Use safety wire or a wire tie to secure the whole shim pack together. Shims cannot fall out because of the one on the bolt.
I just completed this task. Early 68 (Oct. 67 )
no holes for TA shims. I used the shims with slots and just drilled the holes to except the cotter pins to keep the shims in place. Moving on to other task to perform.
I just completed this task. Early 68 (Oct. 67 )
no holes for TA shims. I used the shims with slots and just drilled the holes to except the cotter pins to keep the shims in place. Moving on to other task to perform.
We just did this to the very non original 68 in our shop. Drilled the holes and installed the cotter pins. Why? Because it makes the rear wheel alignment way easier and less expensive on the customer.
When I got my 68 it just had slotted shims that were taped together and just tucked down into the gap in the frame. Lasted 10k miles till I rebuilt the trailing arms. Put new ones back in after but didn't tape them and popped one out on my first test drive.
The High Priced, Highly Recommended Alignment shop I was refered to by a tire shop did not put the cotter pin my alignment shims for my trailing arms. They fell out after three hundred miles. I took the car back and the first words out of his mouth were "It wasn't my fault, if you pay me again, I will do the job over". I can highly reccomend a shop to never take your car to. Let me know.
If you invest in a 90 degree attachment for your drill it makes drilling the holes a little easier since you can get the drill inside the fender well. Plus- get the hardest, best quality drill bit you can find. The steel in the frame is almost as hard as the cheap drill bits and will wear them dull in no time.