F360

I am in the process of building the 350 stock engine of my 71 corvette and I am planning to do a 383 stroker. The car is automatic with stock turbo 400 and 3.36 differential. The car will be used mainly for street, no racing and I would like to have a very good early torque
Between the Eagle street performance kit and DSS racing 383sx which one is the best regarding durability and value?
I am planning to do AFR 190 Cylinder Head and comp Xtreme Energy 270 Hydraulic Roller Cam
Would the parts work together to achieve my target? Any advice or suggestion? Which intake manifold and Carburetor should I get?

Eagle Street Performance Rotating Assemblies (B13454E030)
Engine Balance: Internal
Rear Main Seal Style: 2-piece
Actual Engine CID: 383
Bore: 4.03
Connecting Rod: Forged 5140 steel I-beam
Crankshaft Material: Cast steel
Engine Stroke: 3.75
Main Bearing Undersize: Stock
Piston and Ring Oversize: 0.03
Piston Head Volume: 12 Dish, with two valve reliefs, Hypereutectic aluminum
Piston Ring Facing Material: Plasmamoly
Rod Bearing Undersize: Stock
Wrist Pin Style: Press-fit or floating


D.S.S. RACING 383SX stroker kit
CNC Forged fly cut pistons
Eagle Nodular Iron 3.75" stroke crankshaft
Eagle forged 6.0" I-beam rods with ARP 8740 Cap Screws ARP ROD BOLTS
Ductile Moly rings
Clevite Tri-metal rod and main bearings

Comp Xtreme Energy 270 Hydraulic Roller Cam (CS XR270HR-10)
Duration @ 0.006": 270° / 276°
Duration @ 0.050": 218° / 224°
Max Lift w/ 1.5RR: .495" / .502"
Lobe Separation: 110°
Intake Centerline: 106°

gkull

The c/r ultimately determines the needed cam duration

My first 383 roller cam motor used a 232/238 and had pre ignition problems with two valve relief flat top pistons

Roller cams create higher vacuum and more tq than flat cams. So you can run 10 more degrees duration and still have great street performance

gkull

I have had hyper pistons fail. They have a piston speed feet per second limitation. Stroker motors have higher piston speed for a given rpm

6 inch rods are a good idea so if I only have 2 choices thdss would be the best

How much more is a forged crank

F360

I would like to keep the CR between 9.5 to 10

F360

I am not limted to the 2 options I listed, I am open for sugestion

cooper9811

I had a similar combination (383 with AFR 195 heads and that same cam). It was a good driver, but I left some power on the table with the camshaft. It sound like you won't wind the crap out of it, so I think hyper pistons will be fine.

AFR heads usually like little to no split in intake/exhaust cam duration. I am not a cam expert, but I do think you can improve "seat of the pants" feel with a cam that has less split. Comp isn't likely to tell you that if you call them - probably depends on who you get on the phone.

gkull

Since you are open for suggestions. I quit building 3.750 stroke 383s many years ago I only build 3.875 strokers in 350 and 400 blocks

Just look up 396 ci stroker kits. Every body has a 383 stroker. 396 emblems on the hood looks great and theye make extra free TQ

cooper9811

IMO: more cubic inches = more fun

Ibanez540r

I just mentioned this in another post.. I like SCAT better then Eagle. They seem to have better machining and quality control. All of their rods are also 4340 (better then the 5140) and the kits are usually priced the same as Eagle.

Check out Skip White on Ebay. He has some pretty damn good priced rotating assemblies that usually have Forged Pistons for about the same cost as the pre-made SCAT or EAGLE with hypers. He also tosses in some extras - bearings, etc.

Khibbs

F360 - I'm very interested in this thread as I'm in the process of deciding what's going to be the best "recipe" for my 383 build.

Mine will go in an 81 but the intended use is pretty much the same. Street use and I'm looking for usable power. Some weird part of me likes the idea of an engine that will spin to 7k but in reality I'd rather have it pull like a train to 5800.

I like AFR as well but besides that I'm just getting started on what do get for a rotating assembly and what are the best pistons (style and material) for my use. I'd like to be between 9.5 - 10 for the CR as I'm planning on just feeding it pump gas.

Please post up what you find and how it progresses...I'm in the same boat.

My newly acquired late 90s 4 bolt roller block waiting for some parts.

jb78L-82

Just an FYI that I have a Howards Roller cam in my 355 with 10.2:1 compression and AFR 180's and the car has tremendous Mid range torque, good bottom end and very good top end HP to 6,000 RPM. Not a cam expert but the builder who did my bottom end and knows TONS about Chevy motors from Gen 1 to current generation did not advise me against the split duration on my cam:

Cam Specs:

Lift .525/.525, Duration 219/225, LSA 110

I would think that you could use at least .525/.530 lift or more and at least a 230 duration cam with a 383 with AFR 195's...not an expert though. That Lift and duration would definitely be giving up power to my 355 with my combo.

cooper9811

Don't take my word for it, talk to AFR - they will tell you the heads are efficient enough to favor small to no split in duration. I agree 230 @ .050 would be a good place to start with duration on a 383/AFR 195s.

DucatiDon

search for my build. If you are running Aluminum heads, there's no reason to shy away from 10.5 or 11 :1 compression.

I'm running 10.9:1, AFR 190s on my .040 383. Howards roller, Z28 intake and a Holley 750. Its a screamer.

StraubTech

383 Pump Gas
AFR195's out of the box
Air GAp Intake
AED850HO
Straub Hyd Roller 560ish/540ish 233/235 on a 108

C3 Stroker

Best choice above ^^^

Gunfighter13

This looks like the best option out of the two. Forged pistons and Nodular Iron crankshaft. RHS 200s would best top it off.


D.S.S. RACING 383SX stroker kit
CNC Forged fly cut pistons
Eagle Nodular Iron 3.75" stroke crankshaft
Eagle forged 6.0" I-beam rods with ARP 8740 Cap Screws ARP ROD BOLTS
Ductile Moly rings
Clevite Tri-metal rod and main bearings

Comp Xtreme Energy 270 Hydraulic Roller Cam (CS XR270HR-10)
Duration @ 0.006": 270° / 276°
Duration @ 0.050": 218° / 224°
Max Lift w/ 1.5RR: .495" / .502"
Lobe Separation: 110°
Intake Centerline: 106°

F360

Thanks every one for your valuable contribution

I will be doing the 195 AFR heads for sure, but still searching for the best rotating assembly and cam for my need. I have a matching number and I would like to keep it the same. The block will be the stock one modified to accept the 388 rotating assembly

Another option I am considering is to do a 427 small block engine swap and keep the original 350, anyone have recommendations of a good 427 engine source?

cooper9811

PM sent

StraubTech

Would not recommend a big stroke SBC. The investment made in getting the headers and oil pan to support the CID along with the induction is a great investment. Also the beefing of the drive line of the C3 can cost serious dollars to support the torque.

If your not opposed to an aftermarket block then I would look at building a 372, 4.125 x 3.48 x 6" rod. You get the rev capability of a short stroke engine along with some CID. A stock style oil pan will support the CID along with a good set of 1 5/8" headers. This stuff won't break the bank.