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1976 No start. Help please!

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Old Apr 8, 2017 | 05:56 PM
  #1  
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Default 1976 No start. Help please!

The car had been turning over fine and then next try it did this. (In the video) I was wondering if anybody knows what they think it is or any ideas they have. Tried it on 2 different fully charged batteries.


Any help would be awesome thanks!!
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Old Apr 8, 2017 | 06:29 PM
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I feel you have a starter issue or the wires and or cables attached to your solenoid on your starter need to be carefully looked at.

Due to you not stating all what has been done what I am about to write.... you may have already done and confirmed is GOOD...but if NOT...check it out.

Make sure your battery cables at the battery are CLEAN and TIGHT! If the ends of your battery cables at the battery have been cut off and a new end attached to the cable....that MUST also be checked and make sure that it is also CLEAN and the cable it TIGHT to the terminal end.

Check the ground cable that comes off your batter and make sure that it is CLEAN and tight also and it is under the car ...below the battery area.

You have another large battery cable that is used as a ground. It is located on the right engine mount perch and it goes over to where your stater has a bracket that attaches to it and goes to the engine block. Make sure it looks good and it is also tight and not all corroded, etc.

Not knowing if you messed around with the distributor...if you advanced the timing too much...it can cause the stater to want to bog down like your video shows.

You did not fill out your Public Profile with just basic information (nothing specific needed)..so I do not know where in the world you are.

Remove the starter and go have it checked...because if you stuff about starters...you would not be asking for this help.

DUB
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Old Apr 8, 2017 | 08:30 PM
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I would say it's the starter. You can remove it and take to autozone and they will bench test it for free
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Old Apr 8, 2017 | 09:46 PM
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9 times out of 10, it just needs new brushes, if you wish to keep yours. About $10
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 07:01 PM
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Keep in mind that there are bushings at each end of the armature...which can go bad...and be worn out enough that the armature actually starts to contact the field coils.

With my luck I would be that '1' that the brushes would only do part of the repair.

DUB
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 07:42 PM
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You say that you've tried it with two different fully charged batteries. If the batteries are good, the quickest way to test your starter is to find someone that has this type of inductive amp gauge (0-600 amp meter) and place it over the battery cable to the starter (where you can observe it) while someone tries to start the car.




A good starter should pull no more than 300 amps (typically under 200), a bad one will peg the needle (left or right). If it does not peg the needle and still does not spin the starter, you have an electrical problem. Poor contact somewhere in the battery to starter connection or a battery that is no good.

It is possible for a bad battery to read 12+ volts on a meter, but have no cranking amperage. You can also place a volt meter on the battery and see what happens to the battery voltage when the starter is trying to engage. If the voltage drops dramatically below 10 volts it's likely you're dealing with a bad battery.

The 0-100 amp meter is typically used to test an alternator. Place the meter over the battery cable and turn the key into the run position. The meter will move off center (left or right) indicating current is flowing from the battery. Remove the meter from the cable and start the car. With the engine running, return the meter to the cable as before and if the alternator is working the needle will move in the opposite direction, indicating current is flowing back into the battery.

Good luck... GUSTO

Last edited by GUSTO14; Apr 9, 2017 at 07:49 PM. Reason: Testing the alternator
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