When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
C'mon now you are reaching. Maybe exhaust temps get that hot but it stops there.
Engine oil starts to break down around 250-275 degree's and you're suggesting coolant passages are subjected to 900 degree temps?
Believe what you want, but if the walls of the coolant passages never got above the typical 190*F coolant system bulk temperature then your claims of normal coolant boiling would be nonsense too. A proper coolant system with a 15psi pressure cap only boils at >250* which is WELL above that running temperature. Your first claim is that the water boils and Evans does not. Yet, if none of the coolant passage walls got hotter than the bulk coolant temperature, the only reasons for the water to boil would be having a broken cooling system or trying to run the engine over 250*F.
If you really want to claim coolant passages don't have hot spots, then the water won't be boiling when running at a typical 190*F so it would definitely cool better. It still has the higher specific heat capacity. Even when mixed with antifreeze, the mixture still has a higher specific heat capacity since a 50/50% mix is only about 20% less than pure water or about 3349 J/kg·K.
Lol, you like to twist words that's obvious.
My "claim" is that Evans boils at a higher temp than water-just like straight antifreeze.
Oh and thank you for pointing out that the motor would have to be running hot for the water to boil-I believe that is called overheating, you call it broken or "trying" to run over 250. Who would TRY to run over 250?
But if you were to be in a situation with your high hp ride that would cause you to run at 250+ degrees whether it be on a hot day to get you home or for brief periods making passes at the dragstrip and you had synthetic oil you could make it home or make that round at the track and not OVERHEAT.
And I'm sure unlike yourself-I have actual experience with this product-my old set up had 750 hp and and it ran hot on hot days but I could still drive it home and make passes, my new set up has 950 hp and I will be using the product again.
You can count on your skepticism and hypotheticals and I will count on the professionals that advise me as well as my own experience over the years.
One other point I want to stress-I have used the product in my high hp cars for years-it was the only thing we could do to keep from overheating after exhausting other means (radiator fans etc) I don't sell the product, I don't have reason talk about it besides contributing to this thread.
I am a member on here with real world positive experience with the product being discussed. If you want to scoff at that then what can I say?
But if you were to be in a situation with your high hp ride that would cause you to run at 250+ degrees whether it be on a hot day to get you home or for brief periods making passes at the dragstrip and you had synthetic oil you could make it home or make that round at the track and not OVERHEAT.
I suppose if you build a car with an inadequate cooling system and are willing to keep driving it when the coolant goes over 250*F then Evans has the advantage.
The simple fact is that Evans does not carry the same amount of heat per volume so it WILL require some combination of more coolant flow, more radiator and/or more fan to keep the engine at the same temperature.
My 81's previous owner used Evans because he says it cured the 383 stroker engine's overheating. The race shop that dyno'd my car recommended I switch to water with an additive, can't remember which additive.
I've only had the car since last fall so the outside temps have not been high. When I drive enthusiastically up our mountain highway @ about 3,000 or so RPM the temp gauge needle does not go past 250 degrees. I plan to gently zoom around the track this week and am wondering if I should switch coolant.
Does not go past 250F?
It shouldn't be anywhere near 250F.
You have a larger problem than which coolant to use.
I suppose if you build a car with an inadequate cooling system and are willing to keep driving it when the coolant goes over 250*F then Evans has the advantage.
You can only put so much radiator and so much fan cfm into a car especially a corvette but despite your sarcasm I suspect you are aware of that fact already.
The simple fact is that Evans does not carry the same amount of heat per volume so it WILL require some combination of more coolant flow, more radiator and/or more fan to keep the engine at the same temperature.
The simple fact is that Evans does not carry the same amount of heat per volume so it WILL require some combination of more coolant flow, more radiator and/or more fan to keep the engine at the same temperature.[/QUOTE]
Bingo!
Or it will run hotter.... And that does not mean it is "absorbing heat", it means it is running hotter, period.
Last edited by Tom@Dewitt; Apr 26, 2017 at 05:32 PM.
Or it will run hotter.... And that does not mean it is "absorbing heat", it means it is running hotter, period.
So and I want to word this carefully,
In my mind hotter could mean too hot, the real world seldom sees a car like a c3 running too cool, but a thermostat would fix that.
If we did a test, and all we changed was the coolant, in one test used Evans as they suggest, in the next test we use lets be fun and say dewitts coolant,
our temp gauge readings will read cooler on the dewitts test hotter on the evans test, because evans doesn't cool as well as dewitts, correct?
Evans:
costs more, hassles, runs hotter,
So why would anyone even consider using evans?
Or it will run hotter.... And that does not mean it is "absorbing heat", it means it is running hotter, period.
It can absorb more heat and move it out at temperatures that make water or a water mix fail to do so.
I'm not knocking your product Tom but your product has it's limitations as Evans has it's shortcomings when compared to pure water or a water mix such as yours.
Anyway if we could get away from the back and forth for a "hot" second Lol I do have a technical questions to ask if anyone is interested to answer.
Evans is noticeably thicker that straight antifreeze and or course water so if it, in effect, because it's thicker that it would move more slowly through the coolant system-if it's moving more slowly would it not absorb more heat due to the simple fact that it would be exposed to heat for a longer period of time when compared?
Evans expands less than water so the system is under lower pressure.
How does higher pressure in the cooling system affect flow? does it speed it up or hinder it?
Apparently, it's advantage is that the engine can run hotter without boiling the coolant. Well, if you're building an engine that will see temperatures that boil the coolant under say 15psi then build the cooling system to run at an even higher pressure to raise the boiling pressure. You gotta match the cooling system to the build if you want it to be reliable....
Apparently, it's advantage is that the engine can run hotter without boiling the coolant. Well, if you're building an engine that will see temperatures that boil the coolant under say 15psi then build the cooling system to run at an even higher pressure to raise the boiling pressure. You gotta match the cooling system to the build if you want it to be reliable....
Okay,
But not too many c3s are built that way,
i just dont see any benefit to me to run evans but it actually might cause me issues...
If you believe that fallacy and are actively putting it into practice, that could go a long ways towards explaining why your engine is boiling normal coolant.
If you believe that fallacy then why are you installing higher flow radiator fans? If keeping the same water in the block longer cools better then keeping the same air in the radiator longer would also cool better.
The thermostat is there to ensure the engine doesn't run below it's minimum operating temperature.
FWIW, Jay Leno uses the Evans in all his vehicles because of corrosion benefits. He says that it stops all the corrosion he's had problems with on the vehicles that sit. I don't know why he wouldn't use straight glycol instead but he swears by the Evans but not for reasons of better cooling. Also, if you did decide to switch to Evans, you must get almost all the water out of the system....very little remainder permitted. I'll stick with Prestone and never Dexcool or Evans.
And a thermostat is not only to maintain minimum temp but to get you to operating temp ASAP.
Last edited by jimvette999; Apr 27, 2017 at 09:28 AM.
Reason: added my 2cents on thermostat purpose
And a thermostat is not only to maintain minimum temp but to get you to operating temp ASAP.
Simply saying the thermostat is there to maintain a minimum operating temperature by definition means it will do what it can to increase the coolant temperature it the coolant is too cool.
On a Chevy small block, the thermostat is closed when cold. Closed is closed. Once you have a working thermostat, you can't change to a better or different brand of thermostat to bring your engine up to the thermostat temperature quicker.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
"Thermostat
A pellet-type thermostat is used in the coolant outlet passage to control the flow of engine coolant, to provide fast engine warm-up, and to regulate coolant temperatures."
Reference: Chevrolet Motor Division, 1974 Chassis Service Manual, page 6K-6 Engine Cooling.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
