I was going to say that looked like an LS pump

 

thermostat is closed so the coolant doesn't suck heat out of it before it gets to operating temperature, therefor coolant at a slower flow, or no flow heats faster. When it gets to 180 or 160 whatever it opens up to allow it to flow and cool.
Are you seriously suggesting that what is exposed to heat won't heat faster if the exposure is prolonged?
You can pass your hand over a lighter flame and not get burned, keep your hand and over it and you will burn.
You could test the theory if you like.

 

I passed up this thread many times this week. Then I see it's up to 3 pages? Wondered what could be so interesting about the Evans stuff that could go on for three pages so far?

After reading all the responses it doesn't look like "overheated" has really been defined.

Traditionally it means when the coolant boils over and eventually the engine stops running or seizes due to lack of coolant.

So Evans lets it run a bit hotter. It won't "overheat" in the traditional sense due to it's very high boiling temp. The coolant will remain in the system to extract heat.

So how hot is too hot?, becomes the question.

If the engine is not detonating itself to death, oil is not cooking and it keeps producing power without melting anything, what is the limit?

Would I keep running an engine that gets up to 250*, 260* 270* or higher coolant temp as long as nothing else is objecting?

That seems to be the question here.

 

Huh? This simply makes no sense whatsoever. The engine would overheat if you never opened the thermostat.

You are obviously confusing the ability of the coolant to transfer heat to the radiator with the amount the coolant temperature increases while it's in the engine.

If you want to talk lighter flames then use an example like this. Put a metal cup over the flame and measure it's temperature. Now, start dripping cold water into the cup. Would one drop every 30 minutes or 1 drop every minute cool the cup more?

If you really must talk lighter flames and burning your hand, then the argument would be like this. Burning your hand is equivalent to overheating the engine by not circulating enough coolant. Now would you actually want to hold your hand over the candle so it burns or keep it moving so it doesn't burn?

 

Jay leno...lol,
Leno is a well paid spokesman for a product,
And if you research it deeper he does not use evans in all his cars,
But he could, most spokespeople get free product.

On coolant flow speed i have also seem people who believe in a normal vehical set up coolant can move too fast too cool, i dont see how,
Closed system, with circulating coolant hot engine, coolant will have to pick up some heat at engine and leave some heat at radaitor,

I would however be curious is there a perfect coolant flow speed for in this case a v8 passenger car?

 

exactly

because the longer the coolant is exposed to heat the hotter it gets, hence my point.

 

No I'm not confused Lol-
If the coolant is in the engine longer, taking on more heat from the engine because it's hanging around longer-does that not in itself increase the amount of heat it carries out to the radiator?

 

I would say yes but it would depend on so many variables-ambient temp, vehicle speed (temps increase in traffic), engine rpm, aluminum vs steel block and heads, coolant viscosity, type of coolant, radiator size, fan size and speed just to name a few.

 

Yes of course and the answer, I'll speak for myself, is "sometimes"
So when?
1-like I said earlier, if it's hot a heck out and i want to get home or I'm stuck in traffic with my high hp motor, nice to have that safety net knowing you're not going to get your coolant to hot, blow a hose or worse
2-When making a 1/4 mile pass at the track-motor has to be warm enough to make a pass but at the end of your run you may be a bit hotter than you'd like depending on ambient temp, tune, rpm etc. Blowing a hose going better than 100 mph could mean losing your car and it puts the other racer in danger as well.
3-My motors are usually on the edge of streetability due to the racing, I know there has been alot of talk about water, antifreeze etc on here but my personal experience is my motors always run too hot on regular 50/50 mix when conditions aren't ideal. I don't claim to know everything about Evans even though I've engaged in discussion here. Evans is higher in viscosity than water or even straight antifreeze so I think that why ever it's thicker is why it works for my motors. On my last motor I didn't even run a thermostat-motor was too hot on Evans with a thermostat.

Like I said I am speaking from my own personal experience with the product and other guys with set ups similar to my own have experienced the same as well.

 

In my world,
I called up tom dewitt said i am a paranoid fellow, i live in florida and it gets hot, i have a mild bb in a corvette, do you have a radiator that will cool my car, and after he suggested his bb model would do it i went one better had him do mine even bigger rows, tom can feel free to go into just what i bought if he desires to,

Then i looked at electric fans, i studied true cfm, and bought the lagest i could find that happen to be made by derale, they move a lot more air than the dual 11 spals tom said would be fine and that have proven themselves on cars meaner than mine, but i wanted more,

Now i like my car to run cool meaning i really dont like to see over 210, and no creeping, i know many love to put more stress on their engines and run hotter, more power to ya,

So i know as a fact my system will cool my car, if for example i ran water it will cool, if i run toms or any pre mix it will cool and if i ran evans it will cool, but if i run evans it will run hotter on the gauge this i am far too OCD to have or want, especially to pay extra for,

My system is not going to blow hoses its not going to overheat unless something fails and then no coolant is the answer,

So i have to wonder if an engine can run on evens never boiling over but so hot it distroys itself, i dont want that either,

You know very simple thing, if your cooling system is up to par and large enough for the engine, its not going to overheat no matter which coolant you run, so i wont pay more for evans that has hassles and cons pre mix or water and a additive far cheaper do not have,
I will use an adequate cooling system,

Yes, tom...lets kiss it.....

 

Yes, you most definitely are. This is quickly proving it's pointless pointing out how thermodynamics works when someone has no clue yet isn't willing to learn.

I'm impressed that you can agree that the thermostat has to open to allow coolant flow so the engine doesn't overheat in one post and then argue that the thermostat needs to be closed or mostly closed so the coolant hangs out in the engine long enough to be able to work in the next post.

I wonder if you run a higher quality high flow water pump on your engines, which would also make no sense to ever do according to you theory of how things work.

But then you did post this,

Someone who believes the coolant hanging out in the engine longer would work better then saying they had to remove the thermostat for more flow cracks me up.

 

You haven't considered anything I've said but that's ok no big deal.
You can talk all the thermodynamics you want because that's all you have to contribute-TALK.

 

You said it-mild bbc. You get over 700-800hp and you may change your mind but until then-best of luck with the build-sounds like you are in good hands with Tom setting you up.

 

I wouldnt change my mind,
My cooling system would obviously cool your car far better than what you have,
My entire cooling system is way over kill for what i have, i admit it i went nuts bought the best i could get/afford.

My system is not marginal or inadequate like your cooling system sounds like it is,

My system could cool 800hp easy,

Now, if you believe removing a stat allowed your car to cool where running a stat caused it to overheat, then either the stat you removed was faulty, stuck closed or not fully opening, or its an illusion, all the stat does is gets your engine to the stats temp faster and doesnt let it dip below that temp, it has zero bearing on cooling.

You can hate what lionelhutz is telling you but it doesnt change the fact he is right on the money with this subject, listen to the man, he might solve your overheating issues, unless its just you dont have enough radiator, which i suggest you look at one like mine,

 

You did put together a heck of a cooling system and I agree with your reasoning even though you might have gone overboard a bit. I wouldn't have a car that I had to worry about it staying cool either. I want to drive my cars where I want when I want and not have to worry.

In regards to the thermostat though, an open thermostat can present a restriction to flow compared to removing it. But a car where the cooling system is so marginal that it makes a difference should have the cooling system improved.

 

I went way overboard, i just dont want to think about my cooling system, it gets way hot here, down the road if i get a few more hp im still good, some things i just cant imagine half assing,

True on the stat and its restrictions, but i keep thinking that we do have a sufficient cooling system, in this threads case i believe its not,

I also believe that if that little extra flow from removing a good stat allowed the car to go from an overheating situation to cooling that since the system itself is closed at some point it will likely still overheat again, creep up slowly perhaps, but i dont think it solved the bigger problem , and its really just a band aid on an inadequate cooling system,

evans is thicker so perhaps that stat did screw up flow that much, another reason evans isnt for me,

 

In this video, he says he's in the process of converting all his cars and he's recommending it for cars that sit. Also, Evan's operates under very low pressure so you can remove cap without getting scaled FWIW. I like Leno, he promotes American products that he specifically states he doesn't receive compensation for. I could find no data to indicate he does or doesn't receive compensation for Evan's.


Here's his original video for those with time/interest.

 

Jay also owns a lot of old cars that do not have pressurized systems.

 

i will not buy into a product just because some mediocre but lucky comedian says he uses it. yeah, i know because of his money leno is into cars, so what? So are people on this forum,
i personally believe he was in some way compensated for his involvement if not so be it, it still doesnt make the product the best coolant ever any more so than a retired boxer selling a grill makes it the best cooker ever...why do you think companies use celebs, they think most people believe they are somehow smarter than the rest of us...and some people fall for it.....

 

I like Jay. He's a true car guy who happens to be rich so I doubt he was paid a fee which would only amount to piggy bank money for him anyway. Rather, he passes car guy tech stuff via a tv show vice internet forums which are full of myths, misinformation, etc. Evan's biggest selling point is the anti-corrosion properties. Jay ***'d up on his doozie and didn't use the right coolant or didn't change it soon enough. So be it and I doubt that'll ever happen again. As for running a car with Evan's at temps of +350, not a good idea. Heat can deteriorate parts the same as parts under pressure. Also, that amount of heat can reduce clearances, increase stress to fasteners and increase oil temperatures. Doesn't matter if there isn't any vaporization of their product - heat is heat even without any pressurization. I like their product for anti-corrosion but it's not cost effective for my driving.