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My 81's previous owner used Evans because he says it cured the 383 stroker engine's overheating. The race shop that dyno'd my car recommended I switch to water with an additive, can't remember which additive.
I've only had the car since last fall so the outside temps have not been high. When I drive enthusiastically up our mountain highway @ about 3,000 or so RPM the temp gauge needle does not go past 250 degrees. I plan to gently zoom around the track this week and am wondering if I should switch coolant.
If it is working OK, why change it? If you NEED to change it, go to glycol/water 50/50 mix and see how the cooling system reacts. If it likes that, keep it. If not, go back to the Evans stuff. I don't know what's in the Evans fluid, but if it collects and dissipates heat better than glycol/water mix, so be it. (I wouldn't think that Evans would be able to keep any business if it didn't.)
My 81's previous owner used Evans because he says it cured the 383 stroker engine's overheating. The race shop that dyno'd my car recommended I switch to water with an additive, can't remember which additive.
When i first heard of evans i thought wow new wonder product, but after lots of research and chatting with my brother in law whose in a related field,
The perks of evans like you can reuse it, mean also if you ever need to top it off you have to use evans,
I like to use fresh fluids.
Im cheap, i cant see spending extra money and hassles for no real gain,
Evans acyually says some cars will run hotter, since its under pressure it wont boil over but i want my car to run normal good temps not hotter,
Talk to the track folks, they have never heard of a ban on Evans. They said a track that allows street cars have to accept antifreeze and the like.
And I just blew my header gasket (see other post in General) and the Evans just evaporated in a cloud of whitish smoke....
I've been using Evans in my street/strips cars for years, even my mid 9 second LS trans am. It's a great product imo.
Your coolant temps will show a hotter read yes but that is because the coolant can absorb more heat and move it out to the radiator.
It has a much higher boiling point, so it doesn't boil off into a gas and create hot spots.
If you are driving to the track then coolant is permitted and even if its a track only car-Evans makes a product for that as well and it is permitted.
Because it won't boil the system won't be over pressurized and it PREVENTS over heating, not HELPS PREVENT, it PREVENTS it. No car will see 375 degrees.
Idk why anyone would knock this product-there is no downside-except cost but the benefits far outweigh the cost, imo
If you really want to educate yourself and make an informed decision just call them up-they will talk your ear off telling you about the product-they are great guys and will explain the product to you in detail and answer any of your questions.
My new street/strip big block makes 950hp and I'll be using Evans in that as well for sure.
Last edited by tektrans; Apr 24, 2017 at 12:58 AM.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by tektrans
I've been using Evans in my street/strips cars for years, even my mid 9 second LS trans am. It's a great product imo...
Having always just used straight water w/Water Wetter on track, I've never used Evans, but definitely curious whether or not any Evans coolants would tend to wipe the bearings in the event of coolant leaking into the crankcase, as can a conventional ethylene glocol mix. And, if not, would that only apply to the Specialty NPG product (which I assume is the one you're using)??
Your coolant temps will show a hotter read yes but that is because the coolant can absorb more heat and move it out to the radiator.
False. It runs hotter because water dissipates heat better than any product on earth. It is the absence of water that make it run hotter.
Originally Posted by tektrans
It has a much higher boiling point, so it doesn't boil off into a gas and create hot spots.
Correct.
If you prefer to run a waterless system, you could just use straight antifreeze. You will most likely run 15-20 degrees hotter than normal but some cars can handle than, some can't. Regular concentrated coolant is lot cheaper than Evans and easier to find on store shelves.
When it comes to coolant I subscribe to the old kiss rule.
Keep It Simple Stupid.
How much easier could it be than to buy a quality pre-mixed coolant? No mixing, no measuring, standard stuff, on any shelf in the country. If you need to top it off, add some. If you blow a hose, add some.
False. It runs hotter because water dissipates heat better than any product on earth. It is the absence of water that make it run hotter.
I'm sure it does, especially when it's boiling off Lol
I certainly don't want my coolant dissipating heat while it's in my motor-I'd rather it hold more heat and get it out of my motor-which is what I said in my previous post:
"Your coolant temps will show a hotter read yes but that is because the coolant can absorb more heat and move it out to the radiator"
Let the radiator dissipate heat but you know about that I'm sure.
Plus Evans spells like sweet cake frosting-you can't beat that!
Having always just used straight water w/Water Wetter on track, I've never used Evans, but definitely curious whether or not any Evans coolants would tend to wipe the bearings in the event of coolant leaking into the crankcase, as can a conventional ethylene glocol mix. And, if not, would that only apply to the Specialty NPG product (which I assume is the one you're using)??
TIA
I honestly don't know. Up here in the Northeast if you have a street strip car you don't have much choice but to run some type of antifreeze.
I can tell you that when I had the 441 LSX it would run too hot for most street use without the Evans. With the Evans it showed close to temps with water mixed antifreeze but I was already running hot-and the car wouldn't ping and lose power-which is exactly what it's designed to to-hold more heat and get it out.
If you have a car that is running well and temps are good then adding Evans will show an increase in fluid temps.
Evans High Performance coolant lists the specific heat as 2633 J/kg·K and the density as 1.12 kg/l.
Water has a specific heat of 4186 J/kg·K and a density of 1kg/l.
So, compare the specific heat of 1 liter of each. Evans is 2949 J/K and Water is 4186 J/K. The Evans vs water ratio is about 1.41.
By the numbers there is absolutely no way Evans can carry more heat energy out of the engine than straight water at the same flow rate unless the inlet to outlet temperature of the Evans as it passed through the engine increases > 1.4 times what it is with water.
In other words, if water enters the engine at 140* and exits at 180* then Evans entering the engine at 140* would have to exit the engine at 254* to be carrying the same heat energy as the water was carrying - assuming both are flowing at the same flow rate.
The only conclusion I can reach is that the coolant system with Evans runs hotter because because the extra temperature is required for the system to reach equilibrium vs using a coolant that has a superior heat energy carrying capacity.
Last edited by lionelhutz; Apr 25, 2017 at 01:27 PM.
You're not taking into account that unless you live where it's hot all year round you need antifreeze mixed with water which lowers waters specific heat based on concentration.
Plus what good it it (water that it) when you put it in an environment that causes it to boil off?
On a 250 hp car driving around on a 70 degree day I'm sure water is the best "coolant" you can use.
Take that same water on a 1000 hp car on a 100 degree day and this very efficient superior coolant just caused you to blow a heat gasket.
You have to take it all into account when talking about this product-or any product for that matter.
It is a fact that at temperatures that would normally cause water to boil off and cavitate-Evans can still circulate and move heat out to the radiator-which yes likely needs to be larger and have quality fans etc.
Water, water/antifreeze mix water less Evans are 3 VERY different coolants in their own right but they all do the same thing but only one of them can do it without the risk of overheating your motor.
I will rephrase my point earlier that I made answering Tom Dewitt from this:
"Your coolant temps will show a hotter read yes but that is because the coolant can absorb more heat and move it out to the radiator"
To this:
"Your coolant temps will show a hotter read yes but that is because the coolant can absorb more heat and move it out to the radiator (under conditions that would cause water to boil off and cavitate)"
Down here I run 75/25 Distilled Water to Coolant.......the coolant is to lube the pump bearing and seals.
Distilled Water has a very tight boundary layer.....not much is better with the exception of alcohol which is no good for obvious reasons.....
Down here you HAVE to run Distilled as the water has so much calcium in it......destroys everything.
Evans boils at 375* and the hot spots in the heads run around 700-900*. So both water and Evans will experience nucleate boiling at the hot spots in the head. Any claims that Evans doesn't boil at the local hot spots in the engine are simply false.
Evans boils at 375* and the hot spots in the heads run around 700-900*. So both water and Evans will experience nucleate boiling at the hot spots in the head. Any claims that Evans doesn't boil at the local hot spots in the engine are simply false.
C'mon now you are reaching. Maybe exhaust temps get that hot but it stops there.
Engine oil starts to break down around 250-275 degree's and you're suggesting coolant passages are subjected to 900 degree temps?
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Evans for radiator fluid
