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Has anyone used the Bowler Hydraulic Clutch Conversion Kit?
I am currently running a T56 Magnum behind my BBC with a mechanical clutch linkage. I am considering updating to a hydraulic linkage this winter. Anyway, I found the Bowler kit on the their webpage and it looks interesting since the they mount the master cylinder to the Z-bar mount on the frame vice the firewall which should help reduce flex. It is pricey though.
I'm thinking you can easily whip up a ˝thick chunk of aluminum and make your OWN mount. My Wilwood clutch master was like $100- lines were about $40 and the OEM type constant contact throwout bearing a few hundred. And had a extra motor lift bracket laying around to beef up the fiberglass firewall!!
Plus if you remove the Z-bar mount you'll have room to add and electric power steering motor!!
Out of curiosity, why change from the z-bar? After having had various issues with different hydraulic clutches over the years, I kinda like the ease and simplicity of the zbar arrangement.
Out of curiosity, why change from the z-bar? After having had various issues with different hydraulic clutches over the years, I kinda like the ease and simplicity of the zbar arrangement.
Just bouncing ideas around my head.
I am using a Quicktime Bellhousing to mate the LS Magnum T56 to my 496 BBC. This bellhousing was modified to use the clutch pivot ball. I was tweaking the clutch linkage the other night to adjust engagement position and just got to thinking about hydraulics. I have the McLeod RST with a 25# Hays flywheel. I am also using the Speeddirect linkage rods. It works well for me though I do get a little rattle at idle with the clutch engaged in neutral. We did have to modify (shorten) the lower rod to get the clutch fork in the right position but it is all good now.
I am using a Quicktime Bellhousing to mate the LS Magnum T56 to my 496 BBC. This bellhousing was modified to use the clutch pivot ball. I was tweaking the clutch linkage the other night to adjust engagement position and just got to thinking about hydraulics. I have the McLeod RST with a 25# Hays flywheel. I am also using the Speeddirect linkage rods. It works well for me though I do get a little rattle at idle with the clutch engaged in neutral. We did have to modify (shorten) the lower rod to get the clutch fork in the right position but it is all good now.
I started with a ACT GM6-HDSS single disc clutch, Now have the Mcleod RST with a RAM 2530 Alum flywheel. I don't notice rattle at idle, but I do have rattle during acceleration ~ 2500 RPM.
I used the Hydraulic TOB from day 1. I never thought about using the old linkage setup. I wanted a very light pedal feel.
Out of curiosity, why change from the z-bar? After having had various issues with different hydraulic clutches over the years, I kinda like the ease and simplicity of the zbar arrangement.
If you do a LS swap in a c3 Corvette only one set of headers are made that clear the Z-bar and they 1,500 so that’s why I have to change.
Maybe no help but I was too cheap to do the hydro clutch on my 73 Camaro with a LS3/TKO 600 combo. Made the linkage out of 3/8" rod ends and 1/2" tubing. Then made a mount so I could use the bolt hole on the engine block. A bit of adjustment and it has worked great.
See pic.
04-19-2017, 01:10 PM
Bowler Hydraulic Clutch Conversion Kit
