My car is a 1969 350.

I searched and searched and I found a lot of useful information about the headlights/vacuum system. I got a vacuum gauge today and finally got to spend some time trying to find the culprit of my recent headlight issue. I couldn't find any leaks so i'm here to ask the pros. Here it goes.

Last two months I have owned my car and the lights have been performing well. Passenger side raises slower... no big deal. Until a few days ago I pull the switch, driver side comes up and wait for it, wait for it, wait..... NOTHING!

So naturally I get out of the car see that the passenger headlight is opened about 1/2" and I give it a slight push in the upward direction and up it goes all by it's lonesome. It just needed a little help.

I've gone over the whole system with the vacuum gauge and I can't find a leak in any of the rubber hoses. Everything looks fresh and in great shape.

So back to tonight, checking over everything, again I pull the switch and the drivers side opens and nada from the pass headlight. So I slide under the front and just a slight amount of pressure and it opens with no issue. Nothing looks to be binding or anything. Is there something I can grease maybe or could the actuator need rebuilding? I was originally thinking actuator rebuild until I came inside and started thinking that maybe some lube could cure my problem.

I read somewhere on here in another thread I could test the actuator but do I plug the top nipple or the one underneath?

What do you think? Hopefully I haven't missed a similar post but who knows. I also tried searching using google but was not sure what to search for. Sticky headlight didn't give much results. ha ha.

Thanks for your help!

 

Most likely bad actuator seals. This link will tell you how to test the whole system

http://www.corvette-101.com/vacuum.htm

 

Hi l88,
Test the actuator in this way…

First. Connect the vacuum pump and gauge to the front (straight pipe, where the green striped hose is attached) pipe. If the vacuum holds, the internal diaphragm seal is good. If the vacuum drops, the internal seal is compromised and the actuator needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

Second. Connect the vacuum pump to the rear (curved pipe where the red striped hose connects) pipe. If the vacuum holds, the internal diaphragm seal and rear sealing grommet are both good. If the vacuum held during the first test, but leaks during this test, the sealing grommet on the actuator's rod must be replaced.

Replacing the diaphragm seal is possible, but the actuator must be taken apart (un-crimped) to do it. Replacing the rod sealing grommet is an easy repair using a new grommet.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

Thank you so much. Exactly what I needed to know!