Vacuum Frustration!
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 216
Likes: 16
From: Haverfordwest Pembrokeshire
Just been thinking about the marks being out, I have earlier had a good look at the damper, after discovering this anomaly, and the rubber bond looks to be good so I don't think the oter ring has slipped, so I was wondering whether the damper has been fitted without its key in a random position?
With the marks lined up for No.1 TDC where should the keyway be? I can remove the centre bolt and check where the keyway is positioned which willl confirm whether or not the bond has failed.
Graham
With the marks lined up for No.1 TDC where should the keyway be? I can remove the centre bolt and check where the keyway is positioned which willl confirm whether or not the bond has failed.
Graham
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 374
Likes: 42
From: Coldwater Mi
Like Graham said, your question was really to be directed to me (He kinda' "interjected" his problem in my thread....but no biggie.....not too much anyway!).....and no, I haven't had a chance to do anything with it since I went ahead & counted how many turns out from "bottom out" position the idle/air mixture screws were [they were both at 3 turns out....pretty rich!], and have screwed them all the way in, then backed 'em out 1-1/2 turns, where I will put my vac. gauge on & adjust for best vacuum at that point in time, and seeing how it acts. I WILL also try switching the lines from the intake manifold & rear carb. around as suggested....will let ya' all know what I end up with....when I get back at it!
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 216
Likes: 16
From: Haverfordwest Pembrokeshire
SUCCESS! solved the mystery, whoever fitted the distributor fitted it out of position, when I checked again this morning with a clear head the rotor was pointing between 1 and 8 so I turned it clockwise so it was pointing to number 1, which was at TDC on the firing stroke, put everything back together and was able to set the timing with my timing light have a bit of a tinker with the carb settings and hopefully it will be a lot better on the road.
The run of the tacho cable is now much kinder as well, while I was in there I remade some of the electrical connections, which weren't the best, with proper crimps crimped with a proper tool instead of just hammered flat!
Sluefoot, hope my journey might be of some assistance to you, keep plugging at it you'll get there in the end, don't be afraid to ask questions, there's lots of experience on here!
About 1 1/2 turns out is a good starting point, sorry for jumping into your thread but there were a lot of similarities with your symptoms and mine so I thought it would benefit both of us!
Not really sure how mine was running at all with the distributor so far out of position, might be worth taking a look at yours?
Graham
The run of the tacho cable is now much kinder as well, while I was in there I remade some of the electrical connections, which weren't the best, with proper crimps crimped with a proper tool instead of just hammered flat!
Sluefoot, hope my journey might be of some assistance to you, keep plugging at it you'll get there in the end, don't be afraid to ask questions, there's lots of experience on here!
About 1 1/2 turns out is a good starting point, sorry for jumping into your thread but there were a lot of similarities with your symptoms and mine so I thought it would benefit both of us!
Not really sure how mine was running at all with the distributor so far out of position, might be worth taking a look at yours?
Graham
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 374
Likes: 42
From: Coldwater Mi
SUCCESS 4 me too!
Well, I solved my low rpm stuttering....
Thru advice from a friend of mine as well as some here, I was told that the carb was set TOO RICH...SO....I turned both air/idle mixture screws in to bottoming out....they were both THREE turns out....pretty rich! I then backed 'em both out 1-1/2 turns ( a lot leaner than they were), hit the key & it started right off, idles good, revs up fast & no hesitation, and I have GOOD power brakes again!! (of course eliminating all the leaks in my headlight vacuum system really helped as well).
I then turned 'em both out an extra 1/8 turn while keeping an eye on the vacuum gauge, and it stayed right at a good 15" mercury. It's good enough to take out on the road (RAINING LATELY) & come back & tweek the screws out a bit at a time to see if I can get the vacuum reading any higher.....ANYWAY, it's cured from what it was for sure!
Thanks again to everyone who contributed...it IS appreciated!
Well, I solved my low rpm stuttering....
Thru advice from a friend of mine as well as some here, I was told that the carb was set TOO RICH...SO....I turned both air/idle mixture screws in to bottoming out....they were both THREE turns out....pretty rich! I then backed 'em both out 1-1/2 turns ( a lot leaner than they were), hit the key & it started right off, idles good, revs up fast & no hesitation, and I have GOOD power brakes again!! (of course eliminating all the leaks in my headlight vacuum system really helped as well).
I then turned 'em both out an extra 1/8 turn while keeping an eye on the vacuum gauge, and it stayed right at a good 15" mercury. It's good enough to take out on the road (RAINING LATELY) & come back & tweek the screws out a bit at a time to see if I can get the vacuum reading any higher.....ANYWAY, it's cured from what it was for sure!
Thanks again to everyone who contributed...it IS appreciated!
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 216
Likes: 16
From: Haverfordwest Pembrokeshire
Good to hear you had success too! I can't get better than 10" of vacuum but as I've said I suspect a lumpy cam is in there as I can't get the idle below 1000 rpm certainly pulls well!
Graham
Graham
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 216
Likes: 16
From: Haverfordwest Pembrokeshire
Graham
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