IGN Switch Removal Woes
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
IGN Switch Removal Woes
I was given this Standard Steering Column, believed to be from a '71 Coupe, and I want to go through it and then sell.
I received it with the Key Ignition Switch out of the LOCK position, and it's somehow jammed so as not to turn counterclockwise to LOCK.
Transmission Lockout Arm (what I call it) is in the proper position I believe.
And I was able to depress the IGN Switch Release Tab, but of course if it's not in LOCK, it may unseat a little, but no further. I don't believe it can be removed unless it IS in LOCK.
I did remove the 5 bolts holding the HUB down to peek around in there, but can't see anything that might be holding the switch in it's position. I did try playing with the Column's Lower Switch Rod, while trying the CCW turn of the Key Switch. I lubed the key switch itself with a silicone spray. I can see a small portion of the plastic gearing of the Switch Rod and Steering Wheel Locking Rod, but not enough to see if there's any fault there.
Any thoughts on the next approach I should take? It'll be much appreciated.
Steve
I received it with the Key Ignition Switch out of the LOCK position, and it's somehow jammed so as not to turn counterclockwise to LOCK.
Transmission Lockout Arm (what I call it) is in the proper position I believe.
And I was able to depress the IGN Switch Release Tab, but of course if it's not in LOCK, it may unseat a little, but no further. I don't believe it can be removed unless it IS in LOCK.
I did remove the 5 bolts holding the HUB down to peek around in there, but can't see anything that might be holding the switch in it's position. I did try playing with the Column's Lower Switch Rod, while trying the CCW turn of the Key Switch. I lubed the key switch itself with a silicone spray. I can see a small portion of the plastic gearing of the Switch Rod and Steering Wheel Locking Rod, but not enough to see if there's any fault there.
Any thoughts on the next approach I should take? It'll be much appreciated.
Steve
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
The ignition lock cylinder SHOULD come out REGARDLESS if it is not in the LOCK position. The portion of the ignition lock cylinder that you are pressing on has nothing to do with what is going on inside the cylinder itself...or the ones I have taken out that were not in the LOCK position...must have been pure dumb luck.
You might find that you might need to keep working on it while pulling it out because the tab you are pressing in on n may need to be pressed again when pulling it out when it contacts that other slot you can see to the right of the one you are pressing in on.
If you know for a fact that it is trying to come out and you can tell by the gap at the column area where you insert the key...and the chrome bezel is now further away......THEN it will come out....simple as that...but it may fight you...but it will come out.
I have had some that literally come out with no effort..and others that fight me for everything they are worth...BUT they all have come out.
DUB
You might find that you might need to keep working on it while pulling it out because the tab you are pressing in on n may need to be pressed again when pulling it out when it contacts that other slot you can see to the right of the one you are pressing in on.
If you know for a fact that it is trying to come out and you can tell by the gap at the column area where you insert the key...and the chrome bezel is now further away......THEN it will come out....simple as that...but it may fight you...but it will come out.
I have had some that literally come out with no effort..and others that fight me for everything they are worth...BUT they all have come out.
DUB
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Update.
I got the "Top" separated from the mid-section, just by playing with it. No intentional mechanical detail in mind.
Looks like the Switch Rod and the Turn Signal Switch Harness may now be the only thing keeping that Hub/Key Switch on the column now.
As I see it, this collar has to be removed. And those screws are TIGHT. Would have been nice if they would have used an Allen Head screw here.
Progress!
Steve
Looks like the Switch Rod and the Turn Signal Switch Harness may now be the only thing keeping that Hub/Key Switch on the column now.
As I see it, this collar has to be removed. And those screws are TIGHT. Would have been nice if they would have used an Allen Head screw here.
Progress!
Steve
Last edited by Cavu2u; Jun 7, 2017 at 08:25 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Well, I believe this column is broken down as far as I can go with the Key not in the LOCK position.
The problem has to be with the Key itself and it's incompatibility with the Cylinder Lock. Everything else restricting it's rotation seems to be eliminated. Like I said before, it came to me with it stuck in the cylinder, unable to be removed or turn within the Cylinder.
I have spare Key Cylinder Locks, brand new AAMOF, so I don't mind destroying this one. I just DO NOT want to damage the Hub it fits in. I don't mind taking it to a Locksmith, but I want to ask someone here for perhaps a solution.
Perhaps.
Thanks again.
Steve
The problem has to be with the Key itself and it's incompatibility with the Cylinder Lock. Everything else restricting it's rotation seems to be eliminated. Like I said before, it came to me with it stuck in the cylinder, unable to be removed or turn within the Cylinder.
I have spare Key Cylinder Locks, brand new AAMOF, so I don't mind destroying this one. I just DO NOT want to damage the Hub it fits in. I don't mind taking it to a Locksmith, but I want to ask someone here for perhaps a solution.
Perhaps.
Thanks again.
Steve
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Just saw your post DUB. Thanks much; that's great to hear!
Yes, I got the Cylinder Lock to initially unseat, as evidenced by the larger gap between column and the Cylinder's "wings". Since it was so stubborn in coming out, I believed it was a switch position thing. I know it is when installing it, but perhaps that's due to the Key Buzzer Switch, which BTW I removed earlier.
Appreciate the info Sir!
Steve
P.S.: Just got it out.
Cylinder Lock now in the scrap metal pile.
Yes, I got the Cylinder Lock to initially unseat, as evidenced by the larger gap between column and the Cylinder's "wings". Since it was so stubborn in coming out, I believed it was a switch position thing. I know it is when installing it, but perhaps that's due to the Key Buzzer Switch, which BTW I removed earlier.
Appreciate the info Sir!
Steve
P.S.: Just got it out.
Cylinder Lock now in the scrap metal pile.
Last edited by Cavu2u; Jun 7, 2017 at 10:51 PM.
