I gave searched previous trheads and looked in my AIM but still only found where one goes. Even that one is difficult to understand where it is located. I have a 79 L48, very stock.
Can someone tell me how many were on the car and their locations. Pictures would be great.
Mike

 

Hi Mike,
My experience is with earlier cars, but I'll list a few:

battery to frame cable to the rear/underside of the battery box.
engine block cable from right side of engine to frame.
engine harness at wiper motor, and blower motor.
forward lighting harness at headlight reinforcement bar
dash harness at left side hinge pillar.
rear lighting harness on rear of left side frame rail.

There are various grounding points on lights, gauges, etc. that lead through the harnesses to the locations I listed.

Hopefully someone will be along to offer some more detailed information.
Regards,
Alan

 

I have a '79

1) By the battery box

2) At the solenoid

3) Engine harness: near starter.

4) Front lamp harness: First is at the lower left (driver side) corner of the radiator support facing to the front. This one is a PAIN to access because the vacuum reservoir/frame member is in the way--if my experience is any measure it's also in the worst condition of all the grounding points. Second one is dead center in front of the hood between the headlight vacuum relays--it also has a rubber coated steel wire cable retainer for the harness.

5) Rear lamp harness: Near the radio antenna

6) Cabin harness: Main one is on the driver side "A" pillar behind the dash. There's a secondary one that grounds the power antenna relay on the shifter housing.

7) Power door locks: Passenger side door behind the trim panel near the front.

8) "Bonding" ground: from frame near driver side "A" pillar to the pillar (access from under the car).

9) Alternator: upper rear left of the alternator--bracket that routes hoses is attached at the same point.

--------------

Again, the ground on the lower left corner of the radiator support is a freaking pain! It will likely take you some time just to find it. You need a nice strong light! I was able to remove/replace it using two universal joints, a wobble extension and at least three feet of total extension. "Access" was via the (removed) grille. Two people REQUIRED for removal as one is at the ratchet while the other guides the socket onto the nut and keeps the final piece straight on the nut as you turn the ratchet.

------------------

Use a sturdy wire wheel to clean bolts, terminals and attachment points. You have to get creative to clean the radiator support area

 

There is one from the wing nut on the dist./ignition shield cover to the pax side valve cover. This one is typically missing... missing on my car and I'm in the process of fixing this so I can get my stock radio working without noise (just bought a NOS strap and a ignition shield cover off ebay). I probably have a few other ground straps missing thanks to my previous owner/Bubba.

 

Thanks for the info.

I didn't know about that ground but I do know that the distributor/ignition shield was VERY commonly removed. As far as I've found that is the only missing assembly in my entire car. My '79 had the stock AM/FM/CB when new to me. It worked until I moved the selector to "CB".

 

If you want one, just setup a watch out on ebay so it gives you a heads up. There are a bunch of them people post from time to time, but wait for one in your price range. There are some guys trying to sell for over $100. I just picked one up for $17 + shipping. Then NOS strap for $9 + shipping.

 

Michael,
This is a write up I did some time ago and it show some of the grounds on a 74 with pictures.
Nick
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...r-rebuild.html

 

as for grounding. My rear lights worked good until I reinstalled one of the rear lights ground wire which was severed.
Now on of the back up lights doesn't work anymore.
And I did it as per AIM!
Figure that!
Bubba at it again!

 

Hi P,
Did you notice that the ground for each lamp is accomplished in a particular way…..the ground wire connector isn't just attached to the housing stud followed by a nut.
Instead, a nut is tightened on the stud against the housing and THEN the connector and a second nut is tightened in place.
I'd think there was a reason for that so it's probably wise to still do it that way.
Might that help your backup lamp?
Regards,
Alan

An example:

 

Thanks again Alan! Yes probably that is the cause! I installed it washer-cable-nut. I'm missing one nut!

 

Hello Dembo,
The pictures on the link you gave are no longer available. Would you have them handy? Thanks