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Old Jun 29, 2017 | 05:12 PM
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What temp is your car at 70 mph on an 80+ day?
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Old Jun 29, 2017 | 05:34 PM
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If you trust the factory gauge then mines right at 200.
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Old Jun 29, 2017 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Street Rat
If you trust the factory gauge then mines right at 200.
TRUSTING the factory gauge is always something that I HOPE is correct. On the cars that I have a concern..I install my racing temp gauge and verify that the temps are good.....and then...if I need to ..I send the gauge and sender out for re-working. to make sure it reads correctly.

I would not worry or even raise an eyebrow if it was running at 200 degrees. HECK it can go a bit higher and I would not give it any concern.

DUB
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Old Jun 29, 2017 | 08:08 PM
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180-200 going fast. About 210 (middle of gauge) around town. Owners manual says 210 is normal.
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Old Jun 30, 2017 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by DUB
TRUSTING the factory gauge is always something that I HOPE is correct. On the cars that I have a concern..I install my racing temp gauge and verify that the temps are good.....and then...if I need to ..I send the gauge and sender out for re-working. to make sure it reads correctly.

I would not worry or even raise an eyebrow if it was running at 200 degrees. HECK it can go a bit higher and I would not give it any concern.

DUB
Replaced my gauges with aftermarket and new sender to match, cruising down the interstate the gauge matches what my ECM is seeing so I believe its accurate. Guess the 185* fan off temp with 160* tstat is a pipe dream, itll drop that low on cool nights but not on a regular basis.
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Old Jun 30, 2017 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Kacyc3
Replaced my gauges with aftermarket and new sender to match, cruising down the interstate the gauge matches what my ECM is seeing so I believe its accurate.
Logic would tell us that they are working correctly and reading correctly....which may depend if you have one sensor for the ECM for coolant temp and one for the gauge...OR if you only have one sender that feeds information to two different areas.


Originally Posted by Kacyc3
Guess the 185* fan off temp with 160* tstat is a pipe dream, itll drop that low on cool nights but not on a regular basis.
Not knowing what you are trying to achieve...I do not know how to read into what you wrote. Often times just because a 160 degree thermostats is being used does not mean that it is gong to lower operating temperatures. It just means the thermostat opens up faster...in many scenarios.

DUB
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 01:24 AM
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The cooling SYSTEM must be capable of dumping the amount of heat required to drop the operating temps as you would like. When the car was new, that was no problem. But (assuming you still have the original radiator), years of collected carbonates on the internal surfaces of the radiator fins erodes the capacity of that radiator. CLEANING the radiator (rather than just 'flushing' it) can recover some of that capacity. But, all components in that cooling system need to be 'up to snuff' AND need to be compatible with each other, if it is to perform as you expect.

P.S. The front air dam, the fan being used, and the proper hose components are just as important as the radiator on this issue.
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 11:54 AM
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I guess you're asking everybody generically. Mine runs ~175°F. I measure that using the EZ-EFI 2.0 digital monitor. My gauge agrees since I calibrated it with the Willcox gauge adjustment unit (should have done that ages ago instead of just living with it).
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 01:50 PM
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mine runs 180-190 ..in traffic hot weather or on interstate ..
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 03:35 PM
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180 to 190 on a 100 degree day with the A.C. on. It doesn't matter where I drive, what speed, or traffic conditions.
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
Logic would tell us that they are working correctly and reading correctly....which may depend if you have one sensor for the ECM for coolant temp and one for the gauge...OR if you only have one sender that feeds information to two different areas.




Not knowing what you are trying to achieve...I do not know how to read into what you wrote. Often times just because a 160 degree thermostats is being used does not mean that it is gong to lower operating temperatures. It just means the thermostat opens up faster...in many scenarios.

DUB
different sending units for the gauge and efi

[QUOTE]
The cooling SYSTEM must be capable of dumping the amount of heat required to drop the operating temps as you would like. When the car was new, that was no problem. But (assuming you still have the original radiator), years of collected carbonates on the internal surfaces of the radiator fins erodes the capacity of that radiator. CLEANING the radiator (rather than just 'flushing' it) can recover some of that capacity. But, all components in that cooling system need to be 'up to snuff' AND need to be compatible with each other, if it is to perform as you expect.

P.S. The front air dam, the fan being used, and the proper hose components are just as important as the radiator on this issue.[\QUOTE]

alum radiator and fastburn heads on 406 makes more heat than the anemic engine the 79 came with.
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Old Jul 3, 2017 | 11:42 PM
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It takes no more "work" from the engine to keep your car traveling at 70mph today than it did in 1979 when it was new.....regardless of the engine being used. If your present engine is generating a LOT more heat to do that, then something is very wrong with your engine.

Either your car is not running as hot as you think (a temp gauge problem), the cooling system has some problems, or you are not getting adequate cooling air thru the radiator. No 'additional' heat rejection is required, if the engine is doing the same amount of work.
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Old Jul 4, 2017 | 12:01 AM
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200 degrees and we don't have 80 degree days in Arizona this time of year.
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Old Jul 4, 2017 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Kacyc3
different sending units for the gauge and efi
Timing will affect engine temperature.
Are you using timing control via your EFI?
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Old Jul 4, 2017 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
It takes no more "work" from the engine to keep your car traveling at 70mph today than it did in 1979 when it was new.....regardless of the engine being used. If your present engine is generating a LOT more heat to do that, then something is very wrong with your engine.

Either your car is not running as hot as you think (a temp gauge problem), the cooling system has some problems, or you are not getting adequate cooling air thru the radiator. No 'additional' heat rejection is required, if the engine is doing the same amount of work.
its a 11:1 406 making twice the hp the stock 350 and it has uncoated headers,

It has a universal alum radiator that has 2 large cores not sure of the size, replacement water pump for 89 camaro (serp setup) volvo fan on cookie sheet shroud. Has facotory Indy car spoiler,90% of the radiator seals, hoses are not collapsing.

Timing is controlled by ecm 15* idle (IIRC) 23* at 2500RPM 33* in by 3k rpm
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Old Jul 5, 2017 | 12:47 PM
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That's all wonderful! So if 'everything' is fine....why are you running hot?

You sound like you already know everything. So why are you asking us how to fix your problem? We have offered suggestions, but you don't seem to be listening....
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Old Jul 5, 2017 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
That's all wonderful! So if 'everything' is fine....why are you running hot?

You sound like you already know everything. So why are you asking us how to fix your problem? We have offered suggestions, but you don't seem to be listening....
Its not hot or overheating, just warmer than I prefer, I was thinking my cheap radiator wasnt cooling like it should as others have cooler temps and was trying to confirm. I was curios if others cars run right on the tstat temp while running down the interstate, I didnt think mine would with 160* stat but thought it would be lower than 185.
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Old Jul 5, 2017 | 01:17 PM
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Nope. And 185*F is a fine temperature for it to run.
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