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Getting ready to tackle this but find very limited space within which to work. This is a '72 350 with air and am looking for advice on the best way to access the pump. I have seen clips on how to remove/install but they are dealing with a pickup truck with no air (no compressor in the way). So is it necessary to move the air compressor out of the way? Also, does the mounting plate/backing plate have to come off or can you remove the top 2 bolts and remove only the pump? Thanks
Hi k,
I really think the best access is from underneath…. plus you can see what you're doing. Do you have a way to raise the car even 1' and a safe way to hold it there while you're underneath?
When you remove the old pump the 'push rod' will probably slide down. If you coat it with some heavy grease you can slip it back up into place and it will stay there until you have the new pump in place.
Be sure to have a new gasket on hand.
The plate can stay in place.
Also consider changing the hoses at this time too. Be sure to have the hoses that have the preformed S shape in them.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Yes, I have the front tires on ramps now, raising the car about 7 inches off the ground. I will attack this from the bottom then; glad I don't have to remove that plate, 2 less bolts to worry about. I will have to look and see if there is a bolt in the forward end of the motor there, you know, that one that you can remove and then run a longer one in to hold the rod in place? I do have some sticky red I can use on the rod though...
Put the bolt in from the front BEFORE you remove the pump. It will slide down if you don't. It's possible to lift the rod back up with a feeler gauge, but not a huge amount of fun from the bottom. The drawback is that if the pump rod is already on the high side of the cam and extended, it's a booger to get the pump back on. And there's no way to easily tell.
Put the bolt in from the front BEFORE you remove the pump. It will slide down if you don't. It's possible to lift the rod back up with a feeler gauge, but not a huge amount of fun from the bottom. The drawback is that if the pump rod is already on the high side of the cam and extended, it's a booger to get the pump back on. And there's no way to easily tell.
If you get the number 1 cylinder to top dead center the pushrod will be at the highest position. Insert the longer bolt when in this position and installation will be much easier.
Jeff
I borrowed a portion of Alan's fuel pump picture for illustration purposes only! This is where my pump is showing signs of leaking. Thanks Alan for your pictures.
Right above that seam there are a couple of small holes- vents for the diaphragm, Diaphragm leaks, fuel gets out thru those holes and that seam gets wet.
The bolt you remove and install a longer bolt in is also in that picture..
If you get the number 1 cylinder to top dead center the pushrod will be at the highest position. Insert the longer bolt when in this position and installation will be much easier.
Jeff
I did not know that. Are all cams ground like this?
Getting ready to tackle this but find very limited space within which to work. This is a '72 350 with air and am looking for advice on the best way to access the pump. I have seen clips on how to remove/install but they are dealing with a pickup truck with no air (no compressor in the way). So is it necessary to move the air compressor out of the way? Also, does the mounting plate/backing plate have to come off or can you remove the top 2 bolts and remove only the pump? Thanks
Underneath should do it.I saw the same videos you probably did with the hacksaw blade and grease tricks. All very interesting.
Leave the backing plate alone. I just shoved the rod up with my finger until I could get the arm on the fuel pump in there and put the thing in with a slight twist. Easy. Took about 10 seconds.
Figure out how to block off the fuel supply to the pump before you do anything.
I did not know that. Are all cams ground like this?
I have no idea if all cams are ground this way. I do know that stock Corvette (Chevrolet?) cams are. I have done this many times on many cars and this always works.
Jeff
With the right front tire off, you can get direct access to the mounting bolts with a 7/16 socket and extension. Access is above the frame but below the inner fender.
Right above that seam there are a couple of small holes- vents for the diaphragm, Diaphragm leaks, fuel gets out thru those holes and that seam gets wet.
The bolt you remove and install a longer bolt in is also in that picture..
What size is the bolt in the front, do you know? Thanks
Hi k,
Some folks seem to really want to use the 'bolt'.
I'm not a mechanic.
When I remove the fuel pump I let the rod slide down or reach up and pull it down.
I put a little gob of grease on the tip of the rod and push it back up into position.
The rod stays in place while I'm putting the pump back in place.
Honest!
Regards,
Alan
Hi k,
Some folks seem to really want to use the 'bolt'.
I'm not a mechanic.
When I remove the fuel pump I let the rod slide down or reach up and pull it down.
I put a little gob of grease on the tip of the rod and push it back up into position.
The rod stays in place while I'm putting the pump back in place.
Honest!
Regards,
Alan
Alan,
As you suggest, a dab of grease will do the job and, in fact, that is the method described in the Chevrolet service manual. However, the bolt/threaded bolt hole was put there for no other apparent reason than to hold the pushrod in place. if there is another use for this please someone correct me.
Jeff
Hi Jeff,
I use the grease for the craziest of reasons….. I don't want to have to touch up the paint on the bolt head after putting it back into place.
Regards,
Alan
The most important aspect of installing the pump is to bump the engine over to where the cam puts little force on the fuel pump drive arm. If the cam has the lobe extended, it can be VERY difficult to position the pump so that the lever is actuated AND the holes for the bolts are properly aligned. With the cam OFF the lobe, it's fairly easy to install.