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Since you have good compression, your valves are not out of adjustment. What I did not see in you posts is, does the engine fire at all? When timing is off, like 180* out, it will kick and backfire, etc. So timing should be good... With base timing at 8* it should spin easily and fire. You primed the carb, so you should have fuel.
Sounds like spark is the issue. Perhaps the cap is bad?
It doesn't fire at all and the cap has been replaced. The only thing I haven't replaced are the spark plug wires, however, I did ohm them out and they were within specs.
Last edited by ONeill202; Jul 4, 2017 at 10:53 AM.
I suspected their might be a power or grounding issue at the starter so I pulled the wires off and sanded them to ensure a good connection. Here is how the starter cables looked like when I first pulled them off. I have them installed in the same manner with two power cables going to the top bolt.
I'm starting to think a Witch Doctor might come in handy...
I'd be frustrated as well at this point.
I only rebuilt 2 engines back in the late 70s, but I remember my cam sprocket and the crank sprocket index dimples lined up -crank at 12 oclock, cam at 6 oclock, but I was working on pre-'68 engines....
This engine has always been difficult to start. I have to pump the pedal several times before it cranks. I'm not sure if other owners with similar engines have to do the same.
Anyway, I'm not sure if my next move is to replace the spark plug wires -- it's the only thing left to change.
Have you verified spark at the plugs? It would be unusual for all the wires to die at the same time.
IS the choke working? It sets when you open the throttle? And you get a good shot of gas in the carb when you open the throttle?
Have you verified spark at the plugs? It would be unusual for all the wires to die at the same time.
IS the choke working? It sets when you open the throttle? And you get a good shot of gas in the carb when you open the throttle?
This one has a thermostat choke not very effective. The carb does get a good shot of fuel every time the throttle is pulled. I did confirm spark at the #1 plug prior to installing the new plugs. I think I'll wait until I receive the plug tester I ordered to test the remaining plugs.
Did you try starting fluid?
Did you try to check timing with a light while cranking?
When I flooded out my 327 it simply would not start for me at all. I disconnected the choke rod and let the choke flop wide open. Give it a shot of starting fluid, wait 30 seconds, and try starting.
Did you try starting fluid?
Did you try to check timing with a light while cranking?
When I flooded out my 327 it simply would not start for me at all. I disconnected the choke rod and let the choke flop wide open. Give it a shot of starting fluid, wait 30 seconds, and try starting.
Tiger Joe has a very valid point with a flooded engine. When cranking it over, the choke needs to be wide open and the throttle also. Air needs to be plentiful to lean out the flooded condition.
Did you try starting fluid?
Did you try to check timing with a light while cranking?
When I flooded out my 327 it simply would not start for me at all. I disconnected the choke rod and let the choke flop wide open. Give it a shot of starting fluid, wait 30 seconds, and try starting.
Is the engine grounded correctly?
Do you have proper voltage to the coil?
I have seen bad condensers but that results in no spark...
Above all, good luck! You will get there.
Do you have proper voltage to the coil?
I have about 6.0 - 6.5v when the key is set to on.
I have about 9.5 - 10.0v during cranking.
I have seen bad condensers but that results in no spark...
I do see a spark it just doesn't seem very strong.
I think my next move is to add an additional battery and ground it to the engine. I'll then connect the positive side to the starter. I'd like to see what my voltage numbers are under this configuration.
I will assume that you never removed the plug wires, so they are on the right plugs.
I will assume you have checked all your grounds and your coil is grounded well.
I also think your coil voltage is too low, unless I am mistaken it should be at 11 volts or better.
You also indicated that your car has always been hard to start, so adding a new timing chain will tighten things up a bit and that will play into this hard starting too.
I know you said you bought a new coil but maybe its the voltage to the coil that could be a factor.
From here on out, you should avoid pouring gas or pumping the pedal till you get it figured out. A shot of starting fluid will crank it up to test, and not flood the engine out or wash your cylinder walls down and get into your oil.
You could always change to Hei.
Last edited by scrappy76; Jul 6, 2017 at 01:51 PM.
Reason: add
you haven't reported back on anything that was suggested...
did you attempt to check timing with a light?
Did you try disconnecting choke, holding gas to floor, and maybe a shot of starting fluid?
what kind of spark do you have? I have always heard you need strong blue spark that can jump 1/4" in open air.
Have you charged the battery after all these attempts at starting the car? its probably getting low if not?
I'm going to back to the basics, which was already said- it takes 3 things for an engine to run, air, fuel, and spark (at the right time) you said you have all 3, but haven't checked if the spark was at the right time, ie timing.
either put a timing light on it while cranking, or start turning the distributor back and forth see if it attempts to fire. my money is still on timing. sure there is a SLIM chance that something went wrong, but if you had a running motor, pulled it to paint, and reinstalled everything that it should start right back up, if the timing is right.
put a timing light on it and check, i still think timing is off.
you haven't reported back on anything that was suggested...
did you attempt to check timing with a light?
Did you try disconnecting choke, holding gas to floor, and maybe a shot of starting fluid?
what kind of spark do you have? I have always heard you need strong blue spark that can jump 1/4" in open air.
Have you charged the battery after all these attempts at starting the car? its probably getting low if not?
I'm going to back to the basics, which was already said- it takes 3 things for an engine to run, air, fuel, and spark (at the right time) you said you have all 3, but haven't checked if the spark was at the right time, ie timing.
either put a timing light on it while cranking, or start turning the distributor back and forth see if it attempts to fire. my money is still on timing. sure there is a SLIM chance that something went wrong, but if you had a running motor, pulled it to paint, and reinstalled everything that it should start right back up, if the timing is right.
put a timing light on it and check, i still think timing is off.
did you attempt to check timing with a light?
Did you try disconnecting choke, holding gas to floor, and maybe a shot of starting fluid?
Yes to all of the above and still no joy. I'm going to add another battery and connect it directly to the engine. The 2ga grounding cable from the battery to the frame and the one from the frame to the engine looks pretty worn.
what kind of spark do you have? I have always heard you need strong blue spark that can jump 1/4" in open air.
I still have a gut feeling that the spark is weak. This could be the result of poor grounding or paint insulating my ground connection. This is another reason for my approach to connecting a battery directly to the engine.
Have you charged the battery after all these attempts at starting the car? its probably getting low if not?
Yes sir. After every failed attempt I have charged the battery.
either put a timing light on it while cranking, or start turning the distributor back and forth see if it attempts to fire. my money is still on timing. sure there is a SLIM chance that something went wrong, but if you had a running motor, pulled it to paint, and reinstalled everything that it should start right back up, if the timing is right.
I agree. I have pulled the distributor many times in the past and have never had this issue. I'm sure I screwed something up along the way with maybe the paint or timing. At this point, I'm just eager to find the issue so I can get it back on the road.
I'll try and post an update soon. Thanks for the help and support!
Last edited by ONeill202; Jul 6, 2017 at 08:19 PM.
What did the timing light say? You verified 8 degrees BTDC?
What happened with starting fluid and pedal to the floor? Did it make ANY attempt to start?
I dont think adding a battery battery is going to solve your issue.
Yes, the timing light continues to show 8 degrees BTDC as I indicated in an earlier post. And yes I used starting fluid and held the pedal to the floor -- no joy.
You may be right. The addition of a second battery connected directly to the engine may not make a difference, but at this point I'm willing to try it.
Last edited by ONeill202; Jul 6, 2017 at 07:43 PM.
My car is up on the lift so couldn't check, but your voltage readings do sound low. I was thinking it should be around 9 from ignition and 12+ when cranking.
Have you tried running 12v directly from the battery to the coil? Basically bypassing all the cars wiring getting max voltage to the coil.
My car is up on the lift so couldn't check, but your voltage readings do sound low. I was thinking it should be around 9 from ignition and 12+ when cranking.
Have you tried running 12v directly from the battery to the coil? Basically bypassing all the cars wiring getting max voltage to the coil.
Your profile does not give any indication where you are. City, State. It's possible that there's someone close that would be willing to help. A second set of eyes and ears can help.
