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Coil Over Suspension?

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Old Jul 13, 2017 | 10:51 AM
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Default Coil Over Suspension?

Forum: Now that the DS&E suspension is out of the question. lol
It looks like I'm left w/Vansteel or ridetech?

I have to be able to change out springs and adjust dampening.
What works good on the Hwy will not do as well at higher speeds.
The Silver State is calling me and I don't want to screw it up.
It's on my bucket list and I'm getting ready to retire.

Can anyone comment on these systems?
I don't have a machine shop at home so fabrication is a concern.

TIA

R
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Old Jul 13, 2017 | 11:05 AM
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What exactly are you doing? something like the kit on page 6?

https://www.vansteel.com/catalog/2014webcatalog.pdf
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Old Jul 13, 2017 | 11:13 AM
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Default Good Start?

Originally Posted by gkull
What exactly are you doing? something like the kit on page 6?

https://www.vansteel.com/catalog/2014webcatalog.pdf
George: That looks like a good place for someone like me to start. Of course playing w/adjustments could get me in Big Trouble! lol
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Old Jul 13, 2017 | 11:22 AM
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Springs are springs, but QA-1 is under the illusion that light weight is fine for c-3's and other low pound cars.

If you had 550# before stock type and liked them. You need 550# qa-1 IMO If you have any kind of good brakes and front tires you need 600# or greater and if you want to drive fast over 6 degrees of castor
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Old Jul 13, 2017 | 11:50 AM
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I went with Van Steel in my 73 big block coupe. I talked with several of their reps and asked numerous questions. They told me that since I was planning to use my car for spirited street driving including foothill and coastal twisting roadway use, they recommended their rear coil over kit for the rear with single adjustable QA-1 shocks, and 2" offset trailing arms, using my stock rear sway bar. For the front they recommended the QA-1 550# single adjustable semi coil overs, upper tubular A arms with the additional castor designed in, and the 1 1/8" sway bar. I went with the full Moog rubber bushing kit for the front and rear. They suggested going with the front lower tubular A arms as well but I needed to stop somewhere.

Last edited by OldCarBum; Jul 13, 2017 at 11:51 AM.
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Old Jul 13, 2017 | 04:03 PM
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The cheapest way is to buy the long slotted upper a arm bars and the dual adjustable coil over shocks from vb&p. Then use your a arms after installing all new bushings
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Old Jul 14, 2017 | 04:43 PM
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What speed class are you trying to work up to?

That event basically requires beginners unless you have professional credentials to step up as you get experience and they tech and class you according to the level of build (safety, tires, etc.) too.

What do you think you budget is for the shocks?

You run a whole range of costs for shocks. Budget I would suggest contacting Bilstein and see if they have what was called a Sears Point setting unit (which was an all around specific to that track, that seemed to give a great all around for whatever one might what to do), then let them help you with the math based on weight of the car to pick the spring rates.

Then on the other extreme you have the very high mega dollars units that run in the thousand dollar or dollars range.

I run my car pretty down in the weeds, lower than most with super heavy springs. So that would be the ideal for true top speed stuff, but then I have also seen guys do this stuff on generic single adjust shocks and fairly conventional suspensions, just not necessarily running for the top classes.

To pick a suspension, you probably should start with the tires you are planning to run!

Last edited by TCracingCA; Jul 14, 2017 at 04:44 PM.
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Old Jul 14, 2017 | 05:01 PM
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I want a fast car that can be driven fast safely. I believe I can drive the Touring Car class at SS up to 130 mph I think. That is the fastest I can go w/o a cage? I will need a 5 speed for that. I would also like to do some laps at Buttonwillow. Winning or even being the fastest is not on my list for now. I would like to optimise what I have, then I can think about upgrades.
I have #460 springs in front and #330 in the rear. They are a nice ride, but I haven't tested at 130 mph. lol

I can't see how I can do street and track on the same suspension?
I can see I will have to spend some money and take some lessons.
Like everyone else. I have to pay my dues. lol
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Old Jul 14, 2017 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Taijutsu
I want a fast car that can be driven fast safely. I believe I can drive the Touring Car class at SS up to 130 mph I think. That is the fastest I can go w/o a cage? I will need a 5 speed for that. I would also like to do some laps at Buttonwillow. Winning or even being the fastest is not on my list for now. I would like to optimise what I have, then I can think about upgrades.
I have #460 springs in front and #330 in the rear. They are a nice ride, but I haven't tested at 130 mph. lol

I can't see how I can do street and track on the same suspension?
I can see I will have to spend some money and take some lessons.
Like everyone else. I have to pay my dues. lol
So for the 130 class, I think the limit they place is either a top speed of 150 or 155? I think as long as you have lessened the ground clearance some, dropped it a little and put a slight rake on it, you would have no problems in the aero at those speeds and with some front spoiler. And on a smooth track and that Ely Highway are both relatively smooth, so you should not get all bouncy with those spring rates and a married shock tuned to those rates. And it could still be used on the streets.

What tires and sizes would still be my only concern?

Last edited by TCracingCA; Jul 14, 2017 at 05:17 PM.
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Old Jul 14, 2017 | 05:30 PM
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I have the usual crappy 245/60/15 for now. Bigger is planned for down the road. Before I talk too much smack about the future, I need to see how much sack I have at 150 mph.lol

I have the usual VB&P struts, sway bars and a few other things. The car has been in my driveway for a few years, time to get it going again. Eek

Many forum members have spent crazy money chasing a number. I want a car that I can scare myself with safely. The real question is: How fast do I need to go to scare myself?

R

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Old Jul 14, 2017 | 06:10 PM
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Over the years I have noticed that at lower HP levels, the stk parts hold up OK. I'm talking 300 hp for now. That should be good for 160 mph w/5 speed and and the PC areo kit? We shall see what the pucker factor is at that speed and go from there.
Hopefully I have done my homework?

R
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Old Jul 15, 2017 | 04:09 AM
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I got Qa1 and it made all the difference! Super easy to install and rides like a new car
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Old Jul 15, 2017 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Fredric Björnefält
I got Qa1 and it made all the difference! Super easy to install and rides like a new car
I have removed the rubber bottom out stops front and rear. I don't jump my vette up in the air like a dirt bike. It is unsprung weight. I think that your shocks would be bottomed out first
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Old Jul 15, 2017 | 09:42 AM
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I will put in a vote for the ridetech, but my experience is limited. During my research into all of the options it seemed to be the best all around albeit more expensive than vb&p. I went with the stage 2 for occasional road racing. One thing you will need regardless if you plan to run bigger tires is off set trailing arms. The ridetech system comes with them but there are alot of options. I have 295s all the way around and the car dropped about an inch with that system

There are a ton of old posts on here that discuss these two and ​​​​​​pros/cons of each.

Last edited by CPTCroaker; Jul 15, 2017 at 09:52 AM.
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Old Jul 15, 2017 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by CPTCroaker
I will put in a vote for the ridetech, but my experience is limited. During my research into all of the options it seemed to be the best all around albeit more expensive than vb&p. I went with the stage 2 for occasional road racing. One thing you will need regardless if you plan to run bigger tires is off set trailing arms. The ridetech system comes with them but there are alot of options. I have 295s all the way around and the car dropped about an inch with that system

There are a ton of old posts on here that discuss these two and ​​​​​​pros/cons of each.
Croaker: I thought that if you had 18" on the rear. Offset trailing arms were not needed?
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Old Jul 15, 2017 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Taijutsu
Croaker: I thought that if you had 18" on the rear. Offset trailing arms were not needed?
It's more a matter of width and offset of the wheel. I forget but I think the widest wheel you can use and keep it under fender with stock arms is 9". I have 18x10s and the offset arms were a must. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
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Old Jul 15, 2017 | 10:34 AM
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For now, I want to ditch the 15s and am thinking about some C5 wheels 17/18.
That will get me into some better tires.
Eventually I have to have wider 275 on the front!
I realise that flares will be necessary.

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Old Jul 15, 2017 | 12:43 PM
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I don't think 300 hp will get you to 160, but I will stay tuned. Sounds like fun!
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Old Jul 15, 2017 | 01:04 PM
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Pop: Long ago there was a very long thread about aeros. The consensus was in a cleaned up C3 w/PC aero kit would do 160 w/300 rwhp.
That would fit w/ Le Mans cars doing 200 w/ 600 rwhp.

Of course that assumes enough gear. lol

My car has 315 TQ at 4100 rpm.
W/ 5 speed and .70 od that should be close to 140 mph.
That should be enough for Touring Car class?

We shall see?

R

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Old Jul 15, 2017 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by CPTCroaker
It's more a matter of width and offset of the wheel. I forget but I think the widest wheel you can use and keep it under fender with stock arms is 9". I have 18x10s and the offset arms were a must. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
Offset arms are not required for 17"+ wheels, with the caveat that you must relocate the handbrake cable on the stock arms with bigger backspaces.
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