Oldguard 7

I have installed my rebuilt engine into my corvette (79) and looking for an engine break in oil with adequate zddp and a motor oil with adequate zddp to use. I have read Billa's sticky I began to get dizzy. It seems Mobil 1 synthetic oils are a reasonable price alternative. I cannot afford the $$$$ for Brad Penn, Amsoil, etc. I have a aggressive cam (Voodoo 276 cam) Any suggestins????

Metalhead140

Lucas make a good break in oil. I like the Penrite Racing break in oil too, but I don't think Penrite is readily available in the US?

SH-60B

Joe Gibbs Racing is another oil. But consider your valve springs too. Sometimes it's better to change them over to a lower seat pressure to break in, then switch back to the recommended higher pressure springs once break in is done.

sparky77

Any good quality 10w30 non synthetic and than add a bottle of break in additive from Comp cams or Lunati ,there are many ,it's not good to have to much ZDDP tests show that to much ZDDP is harmful to the cam.

And as SH-60B stated if you're cam and springs are on the upper side it's a good idea to put a set of weaker springs in for the first start,try and get at least 20 min. on those springs at around 2 grand RPM it will keep the oil splashing on the cam lobes.

resdoggie

I had a comp cams magnum 280 and just coated the lobes with comp cams break in lube. Also used their stiffer springs. I used a 10w-30 dino oil (don't know the zddp content as it was 20 yrs ago). Flashed engine and ran @2500 rpm for 20 minutes. Cam ran fine for years and was still running fine when I converted to a retro roller.

Big2Bird

Valvoline vr1 and a can of gm eos.

cv67

w/big bird.
VR1 is affordable and a good oil...if you cant find the EOS call up Isky get some of thier grey stuff. Or you can find something similar in auto parts stores
Keep it between 2-3k (not a steady rpm) for 15 or so, then go drive it
Dont care for that red stuff from Comp

When you prime it dont go crazy with it and wash all the cam lube off.

the whole run it at 15-30 min may have merit to it..a play it safe thing.
Last FT cam I had only ran it at rpm for about 10 min, stuck it in D and just drove it no issues...didnt let it idle much or stay in low rpm a lot.
Changed oil and filter when I got home, added a touch of the Isky additive left it in their til next oil change.

GUys will argue about it all day

resdoggie

A lot of overthinking goes on in here. KISS!

TimAT

I use VR1 in my solid roller, shaft rockers, BBC. And I've used is since Pennzoil discontinued their specialized racing oils.

Oldguard 7

I used comp cams break in lube on camshaft. As for vavoline vr1 racing oil, I have used the 20w50 (but not for break in) in the past but read several posts that opined that 20 weight oil is a little thick. Anyone use the 10w 30 vr1 dino or the synthetic version? I always wondered If lighter weight oil could be used since the service manual reads 10w40 oil is recommended for the 'ol 350. From reading posts and the chart in the service manual is a guide, it appears lower or higher weight oil can be used based on driving conditions/habits, and climate.

TimAT

I guess I'm really old school. I use a straight 30wt oil. Valvoline VR1 Racing 30. My thinking is that the bearing clearances don't really change much. I set them up when I built the engine - mains at .0025 and rods there too. The oil takes up that space. Too thin and it won't protect the bearings and too thick, it can't get in to keep a good flow of oil thru the bearings.

jb78L-82

Driven conventional Break IN oil made specifically for breaking in the cam and rings:

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...k-in-motor-oil

Not sure why anyone would mess with all the other concoctions since Flat tappet cams are problematic these days to breakin properly?

Oldguard 7

Went on Joe Gibbs website earlier yesterday afternoon and saw the break in oil. I see summit sells it cheaper.