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Wrong Pedal to the floor

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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 08:59 PM
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Default Wrong Pedal to the floor

On my '77: New bench bled master cyl (4x) one new caliper, new hose, clip, copper washer. New Proportioning valve. Bleed all four corners again in proper order. Still no pedal. (Using vacuum pump method) Still pedal goes to the floor. No fluid on garage floor, no loss of fluid in master. Have "Prop valve-centering tool" inserted in place of brake switch for now. Why no pedal pressure?
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 10:29 PM
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I tried bleeding the brakes on my 68 with a Mighty Vac and never could get a good pedal. I finally bought a Motive Power bleeder and bled them once and it worked perfectly.
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
On my '77: New bench bled master cyl (4x) one new caliper, new hose, clip, copper washer. New Proportioning valve. Bleed all four corners again in proper order. Still no pedal. (Using vacuum pump method) Still pedal goes to the floor. No fluid on garage floor, no loss of fluid in master. Have "Prop valve-centering tool" inserted in place of brake switch for now. Why no pedal pressure?
Try this. It will help bleed the Master Cylinder while still mounted in the car.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-cylinder.html

Once this is completed try bleeding the calipers again. Also how many bleed screws on each caliper did you bleed ?
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 11:36 PM
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, you just have to get the back of the car really high, I could not do it with jack stands even at their highest. Pump them about 5 times before you bleed the calipers, I also found tapping with a rubber mallet on the caliper will free some air. I use the vacuum just to get it started and gravity bleed them with a hose bended up slightly before it goes down into a drip pan.

I usually go through a 6 pack during a gravity bleed and 1 pint of fluid per caliper.

Last edited by JayRay; Aug 1, 2017 at 11:37 PM.
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Old Aug 2, 2017 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
I have a Motive Bleeder but the plate cover for the master cyl is, well, needs some work. Leaked all over the place even with a gasket. Thats another project another day. But thanks.
I had a difficult time getting the plate to seal too. I went to HF and bought two large C-clamps and it sealed nicely.
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Old Aug 2, 2017 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Funny you ask how many bleeder screws. First one I wrenched, broke off.
I bet that's where the air is.
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Old Aug 2, 2017 | 07:19 PM
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Trouble is, with rear higher than the master cyl, calipers would not gravity bleed. Still no pedal today, to the floor. No bubbles in clear hose using vacuum pump. At a loss. Will look at new proportioning valve Thur. New master cyl looks and acts perfect.
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Old Aug 2, 2017 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Trouble is, with rear higher than the master cyl, calipers would not gravity bleed. Still no pedal today, to the floor. No bubbles in clear hose using vacuum pump. At a loss. Will look at new proportioning valve Thur. New master cyl looks and acts perfect.
Lifting the rear is just to clear the air from the Master Cylinder. Once you get no air in the reservoir via the air bleed holes then you can lower the car to normal to bleed the calipers.

Clearing the air in the master cylinder may take many slow pumps of the brake pedal to clear all air. You should see fluid push up in the master cylinder reservoir once the air is clear.
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Old Aug 2, 2017 | 08:14 PM
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I tried using vacuum on one vehicle and had leakage between the caliper and the bleeder. Would rather pull the vacuum past the threads instead of moving the fluid. I put Teflon tape on the threads and it helped a great deal. Generally use vacuum to get fluid all through system and the have a helper run the pedal.

I've had "ehhh" luck with gravity bleeding.

Planning on buying a Motive as I have enough vehicles to justify the cost, and I know I will use it more than once.

Last edited by chevygod; Aug 2, 2017 at 08:16 PM.
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Old Aug 2, 2017 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by chevygod
I tried using vacuum on one vehicle and had leakage between the caliper and the bleeder. Would rather pull the vacuum past the threads instead of moving the fluid. I put Teflon tape on the threads and it helped a great deal. Generally use vacuum to get fluid all through system and the have a helper run the pedal.

I've had "ehhh" luck with gravity bleeding.

Planning on buying a Motive as I have enough vehicles to justify the cost, and I know I will use it more than once.
I c-clamp this to the master cylinder to pressure bleed.


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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 04:21 PM
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Old School works for me, my daughter pressing the pedal to the floor, me tightening the bleeder screw etc if you do it in this sequence....

Left rear inner
Left rear outer
Right rear inner
Right rear outer
Left front
Right front

the sequence is odd but it will work
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Snoopysvet
Old School works for me, my daughter pressing the pedal to the floor, me tightening the bleeder screw etc if you do it in this sequence....

Left rear inner
Left rear outer
Right rear inner
Right rear outer
Left front
Right front

the sequence is odd but it will work
Looks like just the opposite of some manuals I have seen. H-m-m-m-m-m. Which book is correct? Left side, right side, inner, outer, back, front, rear, center? I thought "Old School" was: farthest bleeder from the master to closest bleeder?
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Looks like just the opposite of some manuals I have seen. H-m-m-m-m-m. Which book is correct? Left side, right side, inner, outer, back, front, rear, center? I thought "Old School" was: farthest bleeder from the master to closest bleeder?
It really doesn't matter unless you are trying to use the least amount of fluid to flush / bleed the system.

Then you bleed from the longest brake lines to the shortest brake lines. AS you described.

Eg on the 78 the rear right is the longest. Then LR , RF, then LF.

If the system is completely empty I start with the shortest to the longest and then reverse the order again.
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Old Aug 4, 2017 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Looks like just the opposite of some manuals I have seen. H-m-m-m-m-m. Which book is correct? Left side, right side, inner, outer, back, front, rear, center? I thought "Old School" was: farthest bleeder from the master to closest bleeder?
I got this from my Chevrolet Service Manual
I know it seems backwards, I have been down this road before, Trust me on this
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Old Aug 4, 2017 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Snoopysvet
I got this from my Chevrolet Service Manual
I know it seems backwards, I have been down this road before, Trust me on this
Using the "pedal method" to bleed the brakes will likely trip the valve in the proportioning valve. There is a plastic tool ($10) that temporarly replaces the brake failure switch / light and will keep the valve centered until bleeding is complete. Any loss of pressure in the system will trigger that prop valve. I will stick with the no pedal / Motive style or vaccum style. Thanks anyway.
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by cagotzmann
It really doesn't matter unless you are trying to use the least amount of fluid to flush / bleed the system.

Then you bleed from the longest brake lines to the shortest brake lines. AS you described.

Eg on the 78 the rear right is the longest. Then LR , RF, then LF.

If the system is completely empty I start with the shortest to the longest and then reverse the order again.

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Old Jun 22, 2022 | 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Using the "pedal method" to bleed the brakes will likely trip the valve in the proportioning valve. There is a plastic tool ($10) that temporarly replaces the brake failure switch / light and will keep the valve centered until bleeding is complete. Any loss of pressure in the system will trigger that prop valve. I will stick with the no pedal / Motive style or vaccum style. Thanks anyway.
What is the $10.00 plastic tool that holds the valve centered while bleeding? Can't seem to find it at Ecklers, Corvette Central or ZIP.

Rob
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Old Jun 22, 2022 | 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by f1rob
What is the $10.00 plastic tool that holds the valve centered while bleeding? Can't seem to find it at Ecklers, Corvette Central or ZIP.

Rob
See below link. This thread is 5 years old, wonder what the final fix was.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...+5d88fb1288741
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Old Jun 22, 2022 | 06:24 AM
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^^^this^^^ Stop the presses! Its on sale too.
Yes, this goes way back.
Click on my avatar to the left, then my photo albums, brake bleeding.
There you will see what you need to buy or above ^^^^
Summit has it, but shpg $ ?
Try eBay maybe.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jun 22, 2022 at 07:03 AM.
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Old Jun 22, 2022 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
^^^this^^^ Stop the presses! Its on sale too.
Yes, this goes way back.
Click on my avatar to the left, then my photo albums, brake bleeding.
There you will see what you need to buy or above ^^^^
Summit has it, but shpg $ ?
Try eBay maybe.
good call on ebay, they even have an aluminum version of this tool for like $5 shipped.. or a plastic one with 3 day shipping for $7 https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...Desc=0&_sop=15
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