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I notice the bracket that plunges the accelerator pump rod down slips off the side of the plunger. There is some play in where the bracket sits on top of carb but maybe too much? How can I keep it on top of accelerator pump shaft without moving off?
Yes. The smaller front tab is rocking loose. I suspect that it should be fixed solid to carb. That creates 'play' in the bracket and it slips off pump rod. I will try some sort of putty weld until winter when I can send it out.
I'm confused. The [green] lever should be hinged via a small roll-pin that allows it to pivot. I've never seen one that the two protrusions from the carb inlet body didn't retain well enough to keep it on the piston shaft.
That IS a problem. You need a new cover to assure that the accel pump will work properly. If it is the outer tab that is broken, you might be able to gin-up a screw/washer to mount that lever to the remaining tab, as long as the lever will pivot freely. Depends on whether you want to be called Bubba, or not.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by Riz71WBY
I notice the bracket that plunges the accelerator pump rod down slips off the side of the plunger. There is some play in where the bracket sits on top of carb but maybe too much? How can I keep it on top of accelerator pump shaft without moving off?
It's a commercially rebuilt carb, and they broke the outer pump arm guide tab. The tab is being held in place only by the roll pin, so it's not supporting the arm. Rather than finding a replacement airhorn (which would be like putting lipstick on a pig), find a good, original, rebuildable carb that has not been commercially rebuilt.
Lars
It's a commercially rebuilt carb, and they broke the outer pump arm guide tab. The tab is being held in place only by the roll pin, so it's not supporting the arm. Rather than finding a replacement airhorn (which would be like putting lipstick on a pig), find a good, original, rebuildable carb that has not been commercially rebuilt.
Lars
any suggestions? I see Ecklers and Zip have non date coded OEM replicas that bolt right up. Any feedback on their quality? Or am I going to a carb shop that will charge me $500 min for an original that has been refurbished with some choice of date code accuracy? Thank you
Find one on ebay, probably $50, and a rebuild kit, $25, you can search for your date code on ebay and rebuild yourself. Not a bad job for a Saturday project and you will learn a lot about how it works. QJets are really good carbs if you learn about them. Cleaning it up actually takes longer than the disassembly and reassembly.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by Riz71WBY
any suggestions? I see Ecklers and Zip have non date coded OEM replicas that bolt right up. Any feedback on their quality? Or am I going to a carb shop that will charge me $500 min for an original that has been refurbished with some choice of date code accuracy? Thank you
Send me an e-mail and I'll forward you some information you may find useful.
Bubba would get that pin out of there and put a small bolt and washers in to keep it aligned. Maybe even make a bracket to stiffen it up, attached to that mounting bolt to the left of the lever. Temp fix, but may work.
Quadrajet Accelerator Pump issue
