Clutch Chatter
The car needs a lot of work, but I bought it from an engine performance shop who just rebuilt the motor, put in a new clutch and throw out bearing and fixed all the major mechanicals. I need to do the interior and body. I'll also have to fix the gremlins as they arise, like this one.
When I pull out in first, the clutch has a chatter. Same in reverse. I know that this typically means that the clutch is bad, but I know that it's new.
This guy did it right. Her found a slight crack in one of the heads and found a correct year matching head. He's a performance shop and all the work I see is top notch. He wouldn't have lied about a new clutch if there wasn't one.
Maybe it needs breaking in???
Here a pic of the engine compartment. He even put in a new radiator. I can't imagine he'd tell me he put in a new clutch if he didn't.
Thoughts?
PS, the test drive was SO MUCH FUN!!!






I pulled the engine and trans that winter and looked at the flywheel when I separated the two. The flywheel had many cracks and "hot spots". Had it resurfaced and the chattering went away.
I pulled the engine and trans that winter and looked at the flywheel when I separated the two. The flywheel had many cracks and "hot spots". Had it resurfaced and the chattering went away.
Thanks!
I pulled the engine and trans that winter and looked at the flywheel when I separated the two. The flywheel had many cracks and "hot spots". Had it resurfaced and the chattering went away.
Talk to the shop, let them drive the car and witness the chatter, maybe you can get him to help you out. You don't know until you ask.






Talk to the shop, let them drive the car and witness the chatter, maybe you can get him to help you out. You don't know until you ask.
The email sounds better.
The last clutch chatter I had was in a 72 camaro I drove it for months that way, I sold the car without changing out the clutch and that guy sold it to another guy. So, you can drive it, but it will get worse and if you beat on it and it heats up, the front end shakes like it wants to come off (don't ask how I know).
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I WOULD NOT worry about it at this point. With it being BRAND NEW...drive it and no crazy 'jack rabbit' stuff....or 'slipping' stuff.
OR...tear it all apart...and find that there was SOMETHING wrong or NOTHING wrong other thatn it was new with basically no miles on it.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; Aug 8, 2017 at 07:25 PM.
I WOULD NOT worry about it at this point. With it being BRAND NEW...drive it and no crazy 'jack rabbit' stuff....or 'slipping' stuff.
OR...tear it all apart...and find that there was SOMETHING wrong or NOTHING wrong other thatn it was new with basically no miles on it.
DUB
When I register it, I'm going to drive it like I stole it!
Last edited by Norcoastal; Aug 8, 2017 at 08:26 PM.
Talk to the shop, let them drive the car and witness the chatter, maybe you can get him to help you out. You don't know until you ask.


The reason I am mention this is that when I do clutches for customers. They get the paperwork from the manufacturer that STATES what I wrote about the break-in period. And then I tell them numerous times verbally and also wrote it down on the invoice...and when they leave the shop and smoke the tires...what they did not realize is that they just voided the warranty.
I know how people want to run their cars hard at times..but there are times that IF a person wants a clutch to preform well and allow them to do this for a long period of time...the initial break in period is important and I am done trying to convey how important this is.
Hopefully the shop that did the work also checked the bore concentricity.
DUB
DUB












