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My brake light came on the other day, I got the car up on a lift today and it looks like I have a fulid leak on the distribution block under the master cyclinder, the rear portion of the master cyclinder is dry. I'm seeking advice from you guys that have changed this part. When I try to loosen the flare nuts, my flare nut wrench feels like it will slip. Any ideas on getting these loose without damage to the nuts or lines?
On the old block it looks like the fluid is leaking from whatever this opening is.
You need a really good quality flare wrench (Snap-On, Matco) that will not spread when load is applied. Auto parts store tools won't get it.
In a pinch, you can use a Vise-Grip and clamp the heck out of it. You'll gouge the nut a bit, but it will probably come loose. If you are going to do any brake work, you need Snap-On flare wrenches and/or crow-foot flare tools. GM didn't do us any favors by not hardening the brake line nuts.
One more question. If the low pressure slide piston inside the valve is off center, can I bleed the lines, or does it have to be re-centered? I've read conflicting post about this, some say jab the brake peddle hard and it will re-center on its own, but if the lines wont bleed with the slide off center how will this work? How do I re-center it?
You need a really good quality flare wrench (Snap-On, Matco) that will not spread when load is applied. Auto parts store tools won't get it.
In a pinch, you can use a Vise-Grip and clamp the heck out of it. You'll gouge the nut a bit, but it will probably come loose. If you are going to do any brake work, you need Snap-On flare wrenches and/or crow-foot flare tools. GM didn't do us any favors by not hardening the brake line nuts.
I wholeheartedly agree with that. I hope they had a very very good reason for doing that, I have not been able to save ANYTHING with flare nuts on my car; thank God I am finished with anything flare-nutted; it just makes my blood boil when I run into something like that that's soft and wants to be rounded out.