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Brake bleed

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Old 08-20-2017, 12:37 AM
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69vette$
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Default Brake bleed

I just replaced my m/c, brake lines, and brake calipers, on my 69 corvette, I also bench bled the m/c but I can't get any brake fluid to flow from the m/c thorough the lines and into the calipers, pumping the brake pedal or gravity bleeding has not worked any help would be greatly appreciated.
Old 08-20-2017, 05:39 AM
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usmilret
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Raise the rear end of the car until the master cylinder is level with the ground. Begin bleeding from the furthest point.
Old 08-20-2017, 08:41 AM
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C3 4ME
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I've had the best luck bleeding my brakes using a Motive power bleeder, based off recommendations from this site. Don't know if this would solve your problem or not, but I'd definitely look into it. My brakes never worked better than after I bled my brakes with the Motive bleeder.
Old 08-20-2017, 08:57 AM
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cagotzmann
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Originally Posted by 69vette$
I just replaced my m/c, brake lines, and brake calipers, on my 69 corvette, I also bench bled the m/c but I can't get any brake fluid to flow from the m/c thorough the lines and into the calipers, pumping the brake pedal or gravity bleeding has not worked any help would be greatly appreciated.
Here is my procedure when the lines are new and empty.

1. Bleed the master Cylinder (Bench Bleed)
2. Bleed the master Cylinder (On car with rear raised)
Follow this.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-cylinder.html

3. Then I start bleeding the caliper lines. It doesn't matter the order you bleed if you don't care how much fluid is required.

I use this order to use the least amount of fluid.

1. Right Rear inner bleed screw then outer.
2. Left Rear inner then outer.
3. Right front inner then outer.
4. Left front inner then outer.

Here is how I bleed the lines.

I apply about 20PSI at the master cylinder.

I have 1 port for the front circuit and one for the rear.


If using a wildwood MC, you need to block off the unused circuit since the wildwood MC has a pass-through hole in the MC.



The only thing to need to check with this process is you don't empty the MC.

What I have done to help this is a cut the bleeder hose to about 4ft. Then I determined how many times I could bleed the hose without the MC going empty.

Once all bleeds clear I bleed / check the MC on the car again.

Remember to release the pressure of the air line before removing the line or you WILL / MAY Shoot brake fluid everywhere. Connect with no pressure and release with no pressure.

Last edited by cagotzmann; 08-20-2017 at 09:00 AM.
Old 08-20-2017, 12:11 PM
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69vette$
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Default Brake bleed

I appreciate all the responses, I guess I'll try the pressure bleeding next, does anyone know if vacuum bleeding works also or pressure bleeding is more effective?
Old 08-20-2017, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 69vette$
I appreciate all the responses, I guess I'll try the pressure bleeding next, does anyone know if vacuum bleeding works also or pressure bleeding is more effective?
vacuum bleeding only works well if the seal on the bleeder is tight so no air is sucked in from the hose making you think there is air in the line/caliper vs air sucked from the hose seal or the bleeder screw seal.

Pressure bleeding applies outward pressure so if there is a poor seal at the bleeder screw or the hose connection fluid leaks out vs air being added to the bleeder hose making you think their is air in the system.

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